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Thread ID: 137382	2014-07-02 08:20:00	any builders on here? flooring q's	tweak'e (69)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
1378259	2014-07-02 08:20:00	unfortunately it looks like my place has had a micky repair done on the bathroom and adjoining rooms floor. the particle board has gotten wet and turned to weatbix. so its been replaced with ply. however the little bit of framing that be added has been done poorly, nails missed, about 10mm gap on one so floor moves when you walk on it. tho odds are i can cut the nails and fit new in. the hard bit is under the walls. couple of walls you can see the bottom plate from underneath as the new ply doesn't go under it. it stops at skirting board. couple of bits you see the bottom of the jib and daylight in one corner. the rest has ply replaced upto the wall but the wall is sitting on weatbix which is falling out. whats the best way to tackle removing the weetbix and inserting ply without the wall dropping down? some have water pipes in so i can't put whole lengths under it.	tweak'e (69)
1378260	2014-07-02 11:25:00	whats the best way to tackle removing the weetbix and inserting ply without the wall dropping down? some have water pipes in so i can't put whole lengths under it. Cut some wedges and whack them in between the bottom plate and the joists (especially under the studs) and making sure that they lift the bottom plate high enough to get the new wood in. Don't know what the bigger picture is, but I've used car jacks to lift sagging construction, and I've also packed small areas with builders bog when I couldn't get proper access to insert solid wood. Bog hardens quickly. It won't take bending but is way less compressible than wood and lasts forever. I have french doors that are 90% bog in their lower area, and some window frames that are a wood/bog mix. That was done 25 years ago and you simply can't see where I did it. Getting back to the floor, once you have support under most of the studs to keep the walls and roof up, you can work out how to redo the floor. It can take a bit of thinking through and some lego-style patchwork but it is a better alternative than major demolition. Cheers Billy 8-{) :thumbs:	Billy T (70)
1378261	2014-07-02 22:28:00	thanks billy, will give it a go. just darn annoying thats someones done such a bad job. i'm guessing its only been done in the last year. a few pics of the not so bad parts LOL	tweak'e (69)
1378262	2014-07-03 01:07:00	Wrong technique, but at least they had the right house and room within a fathom or two. ;)	R2x1 (4628)
1378263	2014-07-03 01:28:00	Wrong technique, but at least they had the right house and room within a fathom or two. ;) any recommendations on what technique to use?	tweak'e (69)
1378264	2014-07-03 01:37:00	Definitely different to last time. Repairing a mess is probably twice as hard as doing it right from scratch. Billy T's suggestions are pretty good for DIY with limited resources. In the meantime, make sure you have hi-vis towels in the bathroom. Particle board in wet areas is only a brief interim step between sawdust and compost, so water-proofing is vital.	R2x1 (4628)
1378265	2014-07-03 02:14:00	not much weatbix board left in the bathroom. just some bits under the walls that i will work out how to knock out and replace. all the floor has been replaced with ply. i just put a straight edge on the floor and the sag at the walls is laughable. there was quite a bit of breeze blowing up between the wall and the floor. plan of attack i think is going to be to cut the poorly done blocking out, replace it and push the floor back up into place. then fill in under the wall plates and make a spreader to join the two sheets either side of the wall. a couple of catches may be the bathroom vanity which has tiled splash back. lifting he floor up may push the cabinet into the tiles. also the skirting boards.....i don't know if they are new or old ones.	tweak'e (69)
1378266	2014-07-03 04:05:00	oops i take that back a bit. looks like only 3/4 of the bathroom etc has been replaced with ply. the rest is new chip board :( i'm trying to work out whats happened in the worse bit. it looks like the ply is bent and is sitting above the old flooring in one spot. which would mean the ply is very thin. that may account for some of the slopes.	tweak'e (69)
1378267	2014-07-03 05:36:00	knocked the bit that was holding the floor board up. thats allowed the board to drop. i can see what they have done. floor board got caught on a bit of rubbish. instead of clearing it and fastening the floor down they trimmed the skirting board to the bent floor. so now i have this........	tweak'e (69)
1378268	2014-07-03 05:58:00	just darn annoying thats someones done such a bad job . i'm guessing its only been done in the last year . A few pics of the not so bad parts LOL Love the perfect miss with two nails in Pix #2! If you can get to both sides of the joists you might be able to screw, bolt, or nail & glue (construction epoxy) some 50x50 along both sides of the joist and allowing that you have lifted the studs, you could insert 'required length' x 300* x 'required thickness' height-adjusters along each of the rotted out wall lines . The main thing is to ensure that the studs are at the right height and properly supported, there is very little floor strength needed at the edges of the wall, and what there is should be under compression . If you are reflooring to get rid of the papier-mache death trap, watch your step! (Anybody ever put one foot down the side of a joist, then followed through? It skinned me from ankle to inner thigh, but fortunately I was very young at the time and hadn't yet fully furnished the tool shed! To this day it still makes my eyes water just to think about it! :eek: ) Cheers Billy 8-{) :)	Billy T (70)
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