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| Thread ID: 66196 | 2006-02-14 20:40:00 | Adding cooling | The_End_Of_Reality (334) | Press F1 |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 430343 | 2006-02-15 21:37:00 | i took one look at that article, saw the rear intake, and threw it out. rear intakes are a no-no. you really want equal front intake fans to output fans. however SIDE fans can be a double edge sword, great when the work with the design but a nitemare when they don't. you also have to watch that the side fans don't suck any hot air back in from the rear fans. this is exspecially critical if your pc is in a desk or backs onto a wall. the BIG problem with the type of fans used is they DO NOT like back pressure, which is why the grills make them run so badly. personally i would take out the front fans, and work on getting it running the best you can with just the back ones. cut out the grills, install higher flowing fans if need be (variable?). once thats all sorted then look at putting in the front fans. |
tweak'e (69) | ||
| 430344 | 2006-02-15 22:37:00 | Terry, so what you are saying is the best way to go is to get as much air flowing and keep the in and out flow roughly equal to keep the in and out temps the same. I would put in some ducting BUT, there is very little room in the case, I didn't realise just how small it was before I got it :o. tweak'e, what you are saying is take off the front bezel and fans and make the intake holes bigger, or completely out and replace with wire grills? I have actually started thinking of a new case, but the rig is only a month old today, so don't really want a new case, that is the last resort :groan: |
The_End_Of_Reality (334) | ||
| 430345 | 2006-02-15 23:08:00 | Yes, the more flow through the better . It is swings and roundabouts though . If the fan blowing in is trying to deliver more air than the outlet fan, the pressure in the case will rise, but then the outlet fan is effectively boosted and will push out more air . If the outlet fan is bigger, then the case pressure will tend to be below atmosheric, hence the intake fan will deliver more flow as its working against a lower pressure . But I'd say aim for similar rated fans for in and out . What is bad, is the use of perforated plate for fan grills . Anything to reduce flow restrictions is going to help . That reminds me, I must remove the PSU on mine sometime, and remove the perforated outlet, and replace with wire . |
Terry Porritt (14) | ||
| 430346 | 2006-02-16 01:30:00 | Right, you want air cooling? Get acooling fan from a GL2 radar . I see someone was selling a VT98 bottle from one of those on Trademe recently . It has a 3/4HP 2800 rpm motor, and a big snail blower . Connect the 4" by 4" air outlet to your case . You'll have to reinforce the panels, because even with vents it will blow up the case like a balloon . :cool: |
Graham L (2) | ||
| 430347 | 2006-02-16 01:46:00 | That sounds better than vacuum. However, perforated plate is far far worse than I'd ever have guessed. Just measured up 2 samples. For one the actual area of holes is 0.37 of the perforated area, whilst for the other it is 0.43. Then on top of that are the pressure drops associated with holes. Talk about throttling the flow, getting rid of perforations is a must :thumbs: |
Terry Porritt (14) | ||
| 430348 | 2006-02-16 02:41:00 | HI guys I wasn’t meaning to throw the cat among the pigeons with the link I posted (see #28) but your reply posts have made very interesting reading . Just one quick question regarding perforated plate vs . wire . If we have perforated plate and want to chop that it out and replace it with wire how do you go about doing this on a case with a no removable back section? Do I need to “empty the case” or is it safe to do with the mother board etc still in place (obviously I will unplug it and have it earthed!) What about using filters on your intake fans? Meg |
meg_h_nz (6960) | ||
| 430349 | 2006-02-16 03:29:00 | It would be best to remove the motherboard. Tweake mentioned using a Dremel high speed grinder/cutter. I'd prefer to use a sharp cold chisel, with the case supported solidly on a block of wood as an anvil. The wood block would need to be long enough for the case to sit on it with a bit to spare if the back can't be removed. The holes are too small as is to use a jig saw, though you could drill out a big enough hole and then use a jig saw. You can get "imitation" Dremels for about $30 or less these days, made in China of course, but they work ok. Only snag with these is the collets are a bit bigger than the Dremel ones, but it is possible to sleeve Dremel shanks to fit the Chinese collets if need be. They come with plenty of accessories though. But most methods will generate swarf, you need to ensure it doesn't go where it shouldn't :) [like into the PSU or all over the motherboard] Jaycar sell "fan finger guards" for 80-120-150mm fans cat. nos. YX 2511, YX 2515, YX 2525. Here is a pic of a hole for a 120mm fan modded into a side panel: www.imagef1.net.nz(Small).jpg Just a circular row of drilled holes, then cut through with a cold chisel and the edges smoothed with a file. |
Terry Porritt (14) | ||
| 430350 | 2006-02-16 03:45:00 | Of course, the perforations are done like that to comlpy with the EMC rules. If the cases had big 120 mm holes in them, the manufacturers wouldn't be allowed to sell the computers. :D | Graham L (2) | ||
| 430351 | 2006-02-16 03:54:00 | Terry, so what you are saying is the best way to go is to get as much air flowing and keep the in and out flow roughly equal to keep the in and out temps the same. I would put in some ducting BUT, there is very little room in the case, I didn't realise just how small it was before I got it :o. tweak'e, what you are saying is take off the front bezel and fans and make the intake holes bigger, or completely out and replace with wire grills? I have actually started thinking of a new case, but the rig is only a month old today, so don't really want a new case, that is the last resort :groan: take the front palstic bezel off to be able to get into the front fan locations. cut them out and replace with wire grills (if you need grills). the actuall bezel itself may also be blocking the flow. some cases have 3x80mm rear fan locations but only vents in the front equal to 1x80mm. i've had a few cases where i've had to trim the bezel to get enough airflow into it. you need to remeber that the fans (exspecially slow quiet ones) do not like restiction at all. easy test.... take fan out, run it, put hand 6" in front, then put hand as close as possible to it. you will notice a big difference. with front/rear fans.. having both dosn'tmake it flow much more, however it can be handy on restrictive cases at the cost of much more noise. if its a really crappy case it may be easier to ditch it. however even good cases can need a bit of modding. most cases these days are made for looks not airflow. |
tweak'e (69) | ||
| 430352 | 2006-02-16 03:59:00 | What about using sidecutters or something to that effect and then file the sharp edges here (www.imagef1.net.nz) is what I want to cut out here (www.imagef1.net.nz) is what it looks like from the front with the bezel on, as you can see by this (www.imagef1.net.nz) that the cut out part will not really be visible. Oh, and Graham I think that might be a little overkill :p And oh again, I have conned my physics teacher into letting me borrow the thermometer and sound intesity meter from school :D . The noise where I sit is just on 50db. Where should I measure the temps? tweak'e, this should give you a little more info, I would like to avoid ditching it, that is a last resort |
The_End_Of_Reality (334) | ||
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