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| Thread ID: 139904 | 2015-07-20 03:00:00 | Toyota cylinder head bolts | tut (12033) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 1405095 | 2015-07-20 03:00:00 | Was removing the head on a Corolla to replace the gasket and three of the head bolts have stripped. They are the type with the internal spline in the head bolt. It is this spline that has stripped. Any one have any experience like this, and how did you get the bolts out? |
tut (12033) | ||
| 1405096 | 2015-07-20 03:41:00 | i'm sure there is a pro way of doing it. but depending on how bad it is you can hammer in a different size socket, sometimes a hex will fit. otherwise weld a nut or even a bar on to it. if you can get a nut on it then you can use rattle gun. worse case, drill the head of the bolt off. |
tweak'e (69) | ||
| 1405097 | 2015-07-20 04:03:00 | I had no experience until the weekend when my orbital sander sheared its sanding disk retaining bolt. I had a reverse-thread screw extractor bought years ago 'just in case', but the residual bolt was hardened steel so I couldn't drill a hole for the extractor. Quite frankly, I don't think that the extractor would have been strong enough anyway. However, if the 'spline' in your case is an 'allen key' type, and the head of the bolt protrudes above the head surface, vice grips are good for removing them. Alternatively, and if it is recessed, a stripped allen key hole is the perfect guide for drilling out and using a screw extractor. Propane torchesare also helpful for loosening stubborn bolts, expecially those with munted heads. Cheers Billy 8-{) |
Billy T (70) | ||
| 1405098 | 2015-07-20 05:25:00 | I use to file flats, then use my vice grips - the real ones - Petersen's, Daytona's and USA Mole Grip- which I have abused for over 30 years, and yet they still survive. I have stripped and tossed the chinese cheapies for bolt removals. As Billy T mentions, I have also used screw extractors, but using a centre drill first. I also had one of them "knurled" bolt extractors (goo.gl) (google Images) (UK made I think) which worked well. irwin Tools make bolt extractors; seen similar (goo.gl) made by ToolPro at Super cheap auto for about 40 dollars. Then there is the Go 2 Socket (http://www.go2socket.com/) for stud removals. |
kahawai chaser (3545) | ||
| 1405099 | 2015-07-20 06:40:00 | I use to file flats, then use my vice grips - the real ones - I never had any success with extractors but quality vise grips are amazing. (The real ones are spelled with an 's' :) ) They are an essential part of a general-purpose toolkit. (along with a hardened steel scriber and a 5mm drift) |
BBCmicro (15761) | ||
| 1405100 | 2015-07-20 07:12:00 | Are they hex or torx? | prefect (6291) | ||
| 1405101 | 2015-07-20 08:18:00 | Are they hex or torx? I think they are what you call torn |
tut (12033) | ||
| 1405102 | 2015-07-20 08:24:00 | Are they hex or torx? Torx |
tut (12033) | ||
| 1405103 | 2015-07-20 09:23:00 | Problem if you didnt use an el cheapo or worn torx bit the bolts might be seized and will snap off in the block even if turned with vice grips. Then you will get the head off and can simply drill and retap a thread. Ezi outs can soon turn a manageable situation into a nightmare when they break. Cant be drilled only arced out with a spark eroder. |
prefect (6291) | ||
| 1405104 | 2015-07-20 09:28:00 | I never had any success with extractors but quality vise grips are amazing. (The real ones are spelled with an 's' :) ) They are an essential part of a general-purpose toolkit. (along with a hardened steel scriber and a 5mm drift) One is a Lock - Grip as a brand from Dayton(a). Solid as. I have plenty of drifts and punches, and a few scribers. Also a range of small to large cold chizels - can come in handy for knocking/cracking off rounded bolts. Have used chizels for removing/repairing ignition barrel/switch bolts which are often rounded. Sharpen some of them with bench grinder. |
kahawai chaser (3545) | ||
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