Forum Home
PC World Chat
Thread ID: 139904	2015-07-20 03:00:00	Toyota cylinder head bolts	tut (12033)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
1405105	2015-07-20 09:31:00	I usually weld a nut onto it and then take them out. They can be drilled and extracted but higher tensile bolts can take a while to drill and can break the bit inside, making it even harder. Cheers, KK	Kame (312)
1405106	2015-07-20 09:56:00	I never had any success with extractors but quality vise grips are amazing. (The real ones are spelled with an 's' :) ) They are an essential part of a general-purpose toolkit. (along with a hardened steel scriber and a 5mm drift) .......and a 5lb flogging hammer? (used to be called a "persuader" in my days in the motor trade) Ken :)	kenj (9738)
1405107	2015-07-20 22:41:00	I know the hammer you mention - an "engineers hammer" with sharpish edges. I only have the garden variety 4lb hammer with rounded head There's an interesting scene in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance where Pirsig is lamenting the decline of craftsmanship and describes a mechanic removing the shaft from a flywheel or something. A craftsman would set up a jig and get out his puller and do some gentle taps and eventually free the shaft. Whereas the modern mechanic (in 1974?) holds the flywheel in one hand and gives the shaft a 5lb thwack!	BBCmicro (15761)
1405108	2015-07-21 06:39:00	A bit of useless info for you, British Seagull specifically tells you not to use a puller on the flywheel of their outboards. But to wack the loosened flywheel nut with the extra instructions of using an assistant to held the flywheel and for the wacker to hit square. British Seagull God save the Queen.	prefect (6291)
1405109	2015-07-21 21:15:00	Well there you are The guys on the job seem to have an instinct for what to do even the rest of us are more cautious (I visited a friend and caught him 'tickling' a gas bottle to make the gas come out faster. I was horrified but he said it was OK if you know what you're doing)	BBCmicro (15761)
1405110	2015-07-22 12:07:00	I usually weld a nut onto it and then take them out. They can be drilled and extracted but higher tensile bolts can take a while to drill and can break the bit inside, making it even harder. Cheers, KK I have often removed broken studs by welding a nut on to them. The welding heats the stud which expands and often becomes free when it cools.	mzee (3324)
1405111	2015-07-22 22:22:00	So far have tried the Vise grips with no luck. Have been advised that welding anything on the bolt head may not be advisable with an aluminium head. Am waiting for a couple of engineers to have a look and see what they can do. Thanks for replies so far. I will update progress if any. May help some one else one day.	tut (12033)
1405112	2015-07-23 07:10:00	So far have tried the Vise grips with no luck. Have been advised that welding anything on the bolt head may not be advisable with an aluminium head. Am waiting for a couple of engineers to have a look and see what they can do. Thanks for replies so far. I will update progress if any. May help some one else one day. You will have to drill them and rethread the holes I guess.	prefect (6291)
1405113	2015-07-23 12:22:00	Just a thought! If the bolt heads are not recessed in the cylinder head; could you grind a slot in the head for an oversize screw driver?	mzee (3324)
1405114	2015-07-24 05:41:00	Just a thought! If the bolt heads are not recessed in the cylinder head; could you grind a slot in the head for an oversize screw driver? If vice-grips won't move them, a screwdriver has no show, but might well split the head of the bolt and make matters worse. I'd apply some penetrating oil (build a Blu-Tack dam around the bolt first) then heat the block with a propane torch (at one bolt location at a time) then try the vice grips again. If successful, move on to the next bolt. I use this method at regular intervals, but not in an automotive context unfortunately. Cheers Billy 8-{)	Billy T (70)
1 2 3