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Thread ID: 141856	2016-03-11 18:27:00	Converting 120v printer to 240v PCB	Nomad (952)	Press F1

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
1417294	2016-03-11 18:27:00	Got a printer guy took back from states didn't know said just travel adaptor. Blew up. If I replace the PCB can I get Euro version so it takes 240v? Cheers	Nomad (952)
1417295	2016-03-11 23:10:00	Probably	Agent_24 (57)
1417296	2016-03-12 08:43:00	I took it apart. On the power unit PCM (not the main one), I have one fuse 120V 2.5A blown and a bulged capacitor 200V 180uF(M) with bubbled skin. Does the (M) mean anything and are these easy to obtain in NZ? I had a search on Jaycar online and they don't have the 200V.	Nomad (952)
1417297	2016-03-12 19:55:00	M is the tolerance code, and means +/-20%. Just about every aluminium electrolytic capacitor is rated such. There are other codes but typically only seen on other types of capacitor. RS-Components or Farnell\element14 will have then. RS is probably a batter choice, as they have free shipping. Farnell have a $45 minimum order for free shipping. (Shipping is $15 otherwise) Note that more than the capacitor and fuse are likely to be blown, but if you do want to attempt repair - photos are invaluable!	Agent_24 (57)
1417298	2016-03-12 22:21:00	Nothing else look blown. I'll try these repair I can get a power board replacement on eBay it's a 2k photo printer. What's that yellow square thing there? Link www.dropbox.com	Nomad (952)
1417299	2016-03-12 23:15:00	For the fuse cartridge. What is the difference between fuse wire inside it but the others have a little ball unit stuck on the wire? Thanks. I will get them off RS. Rang Jaycar and they didn't have neither :) No 200V 180uF. Would 200V 220uF be ok? Their one is 20mm diameter, mine is 24mm. In terms of the connectors is that an issue?	Nomad (952)
1417300	2016-03-13 00:11:00	Nomad, that 180mfd capacitor would have to be a 400volt one to suit 230/240 volts input. Also the blue capacitor by the input AC would have to be rated to take 240 VAC. There is also the main switching FET/transistor on the heatsink to consider. Did they use a device here to stand 400 VDC? Might be best to get a small 230V to 117V transformer to power the printer instead. The little ball on the wire is to slow down the heating of the wire a bit - makes it more of a slow blow fuse. The yellow square thing is a transformer.	rumpty (2863)
1417301	2016-03-13 01:29:00	For the fuse cartridge. What is the difference between fuse wire inside it but the others have a little ball unit stuck on the wire? The little ball on the wire is to slow down the heating of the wire a bit - makes it more of a slow blow fuse. Only way to know for sure is to read the markings on the original fuse. They will indicate the type with a letter or other code. No 200V 180uF. Would 200V 220uF be ok? Their one is 20mm diameter, mine is 24mm. In terms of the connectors is that an issue? Only if the lead spacing is different, but it probably isn't. Nomad, that 180mfd capacitor would have to be a 400volt one to suit 230/240 volts input. Also the blue capacitor by the input AC would have to be rated to take 240 VAC. There is also the main switching FET/transistor on the heatsink to consider. Did they use a device here to stand 400 VDC? Might be best to get a small 230V to 117V transformer to power the printer instead. It won't be easy to convert it to 240V operation directly, at least not by the inexperienced anyway. A new 240v ready board would make the most sense. You don't need to get a new capacitor or fuse either.	Agent_24 (57)
1417302	2016-03-13 03:45:00	Thanks guys. Yes, I was thinking of replacing just that fuse and capacitor and then use a step down transformer that we have. These 2 parts alone cost $10. And assuming there is nothing else wrong with it. Might just get a new board off Aliexpress or eBay for $45NZ delivered from HKG/China so it works here without the transformer. The main board would be fine right if I swap in a 230/240 power board?	Nomad (952)
1417303	2016-03-13 03:49:00	Nomad, that 180mfd capacitor would have to be a 400volt one to suit 230/240 volts input . Also the blue capacitor by the input AC would have to be rated to take 240 VAC . There is also the main switching FET/transistor on the heatsink to consider . Did they use a device here to stand 400 VDC? No he just plugged the 120V printer into a NZ wall socket straight with a travel adaptor . That little capacitor beside the AC input is 25V 100uF . At the other corner the decent medium sized one - 50V 1500uF .	Nomad (952)
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