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Thread ID: 140649 2015-11-18 20:43:00 Question for the electrical gurus Tony (4941) PC World Chat
Post ID Timestamp Content User
1411611 2015-11-19 04:37:00 the simple problem with changing temp gauges is there is a wide range of different temp probe types.
unless you know what sensor you have, its just dumb luck that you get a new gauge that will work with it.

i use a few gauges that are you can program to different temp sensors (and also pressure sensors etc) which is handy IF you know what sensor you have.

some sensors are resistance types where even 1 ohm is about 10 degree change in temp, so adding cable can have an effect on the readout.
tweak'e (69)
1411612 2015-11-19 04:45:00 I'll take some pics and post them tomorrow. Tony (4941)
1411613 2015-11-19 08:03:00 I'll take some pics and post them tomorrow.

With the make & model of the display unit please. PJ
Poppa John (284)
1411614 2015-11-19 20:05:00 OK. here are the photos. There are no visible identifying marks on the display unit. If you open the little cover you only have access to the battery. The display is probably 3-4 metres from the probe as the crow flies, but as the wire winds all through the framing I don't know the actual wire length. The switch on the display unit is to override the automatic solar and use the immersion heater thermostat.
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Tony (4941)
1411615 2015-11-19 21:03:00 With the sensor strapped to the outside of the hot water pipe like that, I wouldn't expect it to read the water temperature at all accurately. I am not surprised it is reading low. Terry Porritt (14)
1411616 2015-11-19 21:04:00 Is that it?, the little black cable attached to the hot water pipe (what pipe is that??) with the tube clamp?

+1 TP my thoughts exactly. probably why there is 15 deg difference.
Gobe1 (6290)
1411617 2015-11-19 21:29:00 Is that it?, the little black cable attached to the hot water pipe (what pipe is that??) with the tube clamp?

+1 TP my thoughts exactly. probably why there is 15 deg difference.

Yep, that's it. It has always seemed a very mickey mouse solution to me. The pipe is the hot water outlet from the cylinder. The point though is that when the system first went in it was accurate as far as I know. It was only after the display unit was swapped for another (apparently identical) unit that the inaccuracy started.
Tony (4941)
1411618 2015-11-19 22:37:00 Well, can't help with that but I would comment you should lag as much of that outlet pipe as you can get at easily. The foam stuff and some duct tape does the job, cheap as chips and surprisingly effective. I noticed a slight rise in temperature in my shower even after doing mine. Copper is a good heatsink and an exposed length of pipe loses a surprising amount of heat.

I would actually expect the pipe to get within a few degrees of the internal water temp, but it will be very slow to respond to changes. As already stated copper is a good heat conductor and it's pretty close to the outlet. I agree it's not the most sophisticated of setups though.
dugimodo (138)
1411619 2015-11-19 22:52:00 Well, can't help with that but I would comment you should lag as much of that outlet pipe as you can get at easily. I plead guilty. I keep looking at it and thinking "I really should do something about that", but then lethargy sets in as usual. There is also the point that all this is in the airing cupboard, so some heat lost to the atmosphere is possibly a good thing. Tony (4941)
1411620 2015-11-20 04:34:00 i'm not a fan of the low voltage electrics in the same outlet as mains electrics.

do you have to have the temp gauge there?
fit a decent one and re run the sensor wire.
tweak'e (69)
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