Forum Home
PC World Chat
Thread ID: 45247	2004-05-15 06:19:00	OT- Wood Restoration	XOtagoScarfie (1619)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
236887	2006-09-04 03:58:00	As an aside, with all the millions of pine trees in New Zealand why cant we have REAL turpentine . I havent seen any for sale in so-called hardware shops for years and years . It used to be available at least in the UK for the same price as mineral turps substitute, going way back, it doesnt seem all that long ago . Neither do we now have any real varnishes or laquers, made from natural gums and resins . Possibly shellac is still available, I have a bag of it still . Instead we have polyurethane rubbish these days :( Even 'enamel' paint is a misnomer in NZ, I just couldnt understand what was meant by 'enamel' when I came here, it was certainly never an oil based paint in the UK, so how it came to be called that here is a mystery to me . It was a quick drying, probably cellulose based brightly coloured paint supposedly to imitate the hard enamelling of broaches and trinkets etc . as carried out as a speciality trade in Brum when such items were used as trade among the natives in outlandish places :) Hardware shops were called 'dry-salters' and sold product loose from boxes and barrels, in brown paper bags, never a pre-wrapped, or sealed item in sight . The old shop owners would turn in their graves at the sight of nails and screws in little plastic boxes . Terry, I don't think drysalters were hardware merchants, generally they sold chemicals etc and in the north of England wholesalers who sold a range of grocery products primarily , as you state, in loose form were also called drysalters !	bonzo29 (2348)
236888	2006-09-04 04:28:00	Why not get some Cooper's and some Selly's (or some such) and have a strip off on a test area. Use waste timber or somewhere that wont get too much scrutiny I think the original questioner was trying to find out about Coopers really. Well I have tried several times to buy "some Coopers" and it is obvious the advert is a come on. A small sample is impossible to buy and I got sales talk about somebody coming round to do the job. I just had a small piece of "G Plan" furniture to strip and thought it would be an ideal thing to try out on. A typical 10 minute job. I notice nobody has actually answered the question. It's probably time Consumers had a look at the firm and what it does.	Thomas01 (317)
236889	2006-09-04 05:06:00	Drysalters were dealers in a range of chemical products, including glue, varnish, dye and colourings. They might supply salt or chemicals for preserving food and sometimes also sold pickles, dried meat or related items. The name drysalter or dry-salter was in use in the United Kingdom by the early 18th century[1] when some drysalters concentrated on ingredients for producing dyes, and it was still current in the first part of the 20th century. Drysaltery is closely linked to the occupation of salter which in the Middle Ages simply meant someone who traded in salt. By the end of the 14th century there was a guild of salters in London. Later salter was also used to refer to people employed in a salt works, or in salting fish or meat, as well as to drysalters. In 1726 Daniel Defoe described a tradesman involved in the "buying of cochineal, indigo, galls, shumach, logwood, fustick, madder, and the like" as both dry-salter and salter. The Salters' Livery Company tells us that "some of the members who were salt traders were also 'Drysalters' and dealt in flax, hemp, logwood, cochineal, potashes and chemical preparations." Being a drysalter might be combined with manufacturing - paint, for example - or with trading as a chemist/druggist or ironmonger/hardware merchant.	Cicero (40)
236890	2006-09-04 06:09:00	You could look at the wikipedia article Drysalter (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drysalter) for a description.	Graham L (2)
236891	2006-09-04 06:21:00	Which obviously Cicero did, since it's word for word - naughty...	godfather (25)
236892	2006-09-04 06:56:00	Which obviously Cicero did, since it's word for word - naughty... Oh dear,surely it was obvious that info was from web. Never pretended to be a bleedin expert on,what was it?Drysalters.	Cicero (40)
236893	2006-09-04 08:43:00	Oh dear,surely it was obvious that info was from web. Never pretended to be a bleedin expert on,what was it?Drysalters. But the forum owners can get done for breach of copyright...unless you give attribution to the source (e.g a URL to where you got it). And here was me thinking you had learnt some real fancy words - I should have known better....	godfather (25)
236894	2006-09-04 08:54:00	But the forum owners can get done for breach of copyright...unless you give attribution to the source (e.g a URL to where you got it). And here was me thinking you had learnt some real fancy words - I should have known better.... Yes that is likely to happen,Mr Wicky will be quite upset I am sure. I can see the need to explicate ones self in some company,I was hoping for better.	Cicero (40)
236895	2006-09-05 01:05:00	GF: if it contains more than 2 lines and shows evidence of careful compilation, it's not by "Cicero" . The convention is that if you are quoting someone else's work, you put it in quotes, italics, or indicate in some way that it is a quotation . The other essential is the attribution . If you don't do either of those things, "it looks as if you are claiming it as your own [work]" . The technical term is plagiarism (www . vuw . ac . nz/st_Services/slss/study/plagiarism/Avoiding-plagiarism . pdf) . That link contains some hints (and is the source of my quote [emphasis added] ) .	Graham L (2)
236896	2006-09-05 01:32:00	GF: if it contains more than 2 lines and shows evidence of careful compilation, it's not by "Cicero" . :lol: Hi i have a question . I have a rimu dinning suite and it has a wax coating on it . what is the best way to remove the wax (rimu) As per Cici's post, what do you want to replace the wax with? For removal, a little solvent (white spirits or wood turps, perhaps, Cici?), 0000 steel wool and gentle elbow grease . I've swung away from waxing to oiling, apply with same grade steel wool and a lint free cloth, in layers to firstly feed the timber then provide a durable finish . Both oil and wax require maintenance (wax more so), but offer a better finish IMO and an easier finish to restore when the time comes .	Murray P (44)
1 2 3 4 5