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Thread ID: 45247 2004-05-15 06:19:00 OT- Wood Restoration XOtagoScarfie (1619) PC World Chat
Post ID Timestamp Content User
236877 2004-05-15 11:20:00 At last, a real topic. Strippers generally destroy organic material quickly, so the longer/ the stronger/ the more wrecking of timber. Old paints have many toxins as do new paints, so stripping with minimum heat/chemical breakdown of the structure is best. Large flakes good, small flakes bad. Vapour; hope your family is complete. Wood has a structure; large veins stuffed with delicate organic material. Nice stuff. brewer (4389)
236878 2004-05-16 05:19:00 Cheers thanks to everyone who has contributed so far, looks like i've got a lot of work ahead

Cheers
XOtagoScarfie (1619)
236879 2004-05-16 06:48:00 As an aside, with all the millions of pine trees in New Zealand why cant we have REAL turpentine. I havent seen any for sale in so-called hardware shops for years and years.
It used to be available at least in the UK for the same price as mineral turps substitute, going way back, it doesnt seem all that long ago.

Neither do we now have any real varnishes or laquers, made from natural gums and resins.
Possibly shellac is still available, I have a bag of it still.

Instead we have polyurethane rubbish these days :(

Even 'enamel' paint is a misnomer in NZ, I just couldnt understand what was meant by 'enamel' when I came here, it was certainly never an oil based paint in the UK, so how it came to be called that here is a mystery to me.

It was a quick drying, probably cellulose based brightly coloured paint supposedly to imitate the hard enamelling of broaches and trinkets etc. as carried out as a speciality trade in Brum when such items were used as trade among the natives in outlandish places :)

Hardware shops were called 'dry-salters' and sold product loose from boxes and barrels, in brown paper bags, never a pre-wrapped, or sealed item in sight.
The old shop owners would turn in their graves at the sight of nails and screws in little plastic boxes.
Terry Porritt (14)
236880 2004-05-16 07:04:00 Hi ya,

Wel we are in the process of renovating and redecorating our house and have found our stair case is rimu and stripped it back with a stripper (2nd brand we tried) from resene that works really well and is not as strong smelling as other stuff we have tried . its a resene made / branded one but works well and the timber looks lovely, we have yet to decide how to coat it after we sand it down, we want to retain as natural a colour of the wood as possible .

well worth the hard yakker of scraping and stripper .

sacriledge these people that paint over such nice wood as Rimu .

best of luck .

beetle
beetle (243)
236881 2004-05-16 08:01:00 TP, a man after my own heart. I can't stand the fiddly little clear packs of screws, tacks, rivets, etc, they dish up at, supermarket, hardware stores and builders supplies. Brown paper bags or liitle cardboard boxes and a set of scales is all you need and a by each price of course.

The vegitable turpentine sold at the Haarlem oil site provided by Steve is probably good old wood turpentine extracted from pine or macrocarpa (ever seen how well green macrocarpa needles burn?).

A couple of refernce books I use for finding out the intricacies of various materials and construction methods are George A. & A. M. Mitchell's Building Construction, Elementary and Advanced Course. Subtitled: A text book for the principles and details of modern construction for the use of students and pratical men (no room for PC principles here lads ;) ). 16th edition published 1947.


Cheers Murray P
Murray P (44)
236882 2006-09-02 04:05:00 Hi
i have a question.
I have a rimu dinning suite and it has a wax coating on it.
what is the best way to remove the wax (rimu)
flyingkiwi01 (5643)
236883 2006-09-02 04:15:00 Post necromancy is not a good idea. DeSade (984)
236884 2006-09-02 04:31:00 Post necromancy is not a good idea.

I think in this case it is OK. Only trouble is that a lot of the people who posted good info here don't look in on the forum as much as they used to so it might be hard to grab their attention again.
FoxyMX (5)
236885 2006-09-02 07:00:00 I've seen those Cooper's ads and watched a demo, it looks too easy.
I asked an antique dealer about it and his comment was "Its expensive and not as easy as it looks".
Like previous posters have suggested, use a mildish paint stripper and lots of care.
Many years ago I was told by a time served carpenter that the best, if not the easiest, method of removing paint from wood was careful scraping with the edge of broken glass fragments. Imagine doing that as part of your apprenticeship.
Btw, if this forum keeps being so helpful on DIY topics I'm about to post a couple of requests for advice.

Martynz
martynz (5445)
236886 2006-09-02 07:21:00 Hi
i have a question.
I have a rimu dinning suite and it has a wax coating on it.
what is the best way to remove the wax (rimu)
Then having removed the wax,what finish will you give it?
Cicero (40)
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