| Forum Home | ||||
| PC World Chat | ||||
| Thread ID: 45247 | 2004-05-15 06:19:00 | OT- Wood Restoration | XOtagoScarfie (1619) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 236867 | 2004-05-15 06:19:00 | Well this is definitely off topic, but has anyone tried either Coopers or Easy Strip to restore anything? www.easystip.co.nz http://www.coopers-restoration.co.nz/ Cheers for any help as we are doing up an old villa |
XOtagoScarfie (1619) | ||
| 236868 | 2004-05-15 06:25:00 | Coppers is over priced for what it does. An ordinary wood stripper from M10 does the same job and is a hella a lot cheaper. Just follow the instructions and make sure you wash all wood stripper of after you have finished, because if you repaint (heaven forbid) paint dont like wood stripper. cheers merlin a ;-) |
merlin a (3926) | ||
| 236869 | 2004-05-15 06:30:00 | Not so much looking to repaint rather to get that natural wood finish Cheers |
XOtagoScarfie (1619) | ||
| 236870 | 2004-05-15 07:25:00 | Depends on the wood type . Some strippers "bleach" the wood too much, and take all the character out . Kauri is one such wood, be careful what you use on it . The slower the stripper they are, the gentler usually . I tend to use a tungsten carbide scraper (Linbide brand) for removing paint wherever possible first . Never use "dip stripping" services for doors, as apart from bleaching it often destroys all the glued joints so a door becomes a pile of timber . . . . |
godfather (25) | ||
| 236871 | 2004-05-15 07:31:00 | What exactly are you wanting to strip . Is it old varnish, paint, shellac? Unfortunately there is no substitute for elbow grease if you want a clear finish . And some skill in hiding defects, if that is your desire although, for some a rustic, recycled appearance is fine . For paints and polyurethane/varnish and shaped mouldings a caustic based stripper that you can get from your local hardware/paint shop is fine . If you've a lot to do a pale of commercial stripper should be cheaper and perhaps more effective . The less sanding or burning you do with coatings . especially if lead based paints are present the better for your health (always wear a decent mask anyway) . Scrape, reapply more solution as necessary, scrape, repeat if necessary . . . . . . . . . then wash the caustic out of the timber, scrape, sand/steel wool to finish and wash with turp's to give a final clean and show up any remaining defects (turp's also gives a very good idea of what a clear, oiled or waxed finish will look like) . If you get too enthusiastic with stripper in an effort to lesson the elbow grease you can discolour the timber and raise the nap of the grain creating more work in the long run . Shellac will come off with almost anything . Window cleaner has shown promise but caustic will do . Some solvents will do a very nice job of stripping anything including the inside of your lungs . Solvents and caustic can have a detrimental effect on some glues . Handy if you want to dismantle then rebuild the family heirloom though . If you have a reasonable amount of flat surface to work with a decent belt sander starting with course and moving down to fine grit abrasive is pretty quick, watch you don't poison the family with lead, growing children are especially susceptible . do corners by hand or strip, finish off by hand . Personally I don't like orbital sanders except to get the worst off in corners, etc . Hot air guns or burners are not good near glass or scrim backed paper linings . Make sure you are ensured for this activity . Move the family and contents out . Have fun . Cheers Murray P |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 236872 | 2004-05-15 07:47:00 | Mainly looking to strip old windows of paint, the previous owners have partially stripped down the window frames but haven't oiled or waxed them plus there stripping wasn't the best job. And yes they have dipped the doors, what do you reccomend for recovering the doors(rimu)? Plus is wax or danish oil best to finish? Guess I liked the supposed ease of coopers and though easy strip might be a cheap alternative with minimal elbow grease. Cheers for the input so far people. |
XOtagoScarfie (1619) | ||
| 236873 | 2004-05-15 08:22:00 | Are the doors discoloured, nap raised or both? If moderately furry, sanding with a fine(ish) sand paper around 220-240 grit or course steel wool (Polly pad consistency) is probably your best bet . If the timber's fibres have been damaged more deeply or discoloured, judicious use of a mechanical sander, joiners scraper (flat rectangular piece of metal with burred edges) a really sharp butt plane or all the above may be needed . Putting them on a drum sander at your local joiners is ok if you don't mind the sanding marks across the grain . Plus you still need to do the edges and mouldings by hand also, little room for error due to the rate at which the machine can remove timber . I don't like oil or wax on joinery . Great for furniture, depending on it's use, and handrails (interior) as it is easily replaced . Just gets dirty on joinery and does not afford the timber enough protection particularly around windows where moisture, sun and grubby little fingers put the acid on any coating . If you want to bring out the grain in faded joinery (after a good sand/scrape, of course) moisture cure polyurethane like that used on floors is excellent . It's harder to apply than standard poly but worth it . Don't use one with a gloss level higher than 50% though, IMO . Don't use acrylics again, IMO . Why not get some Cooper's and some Selly's (or some such) and have a strip off on a test area . Use waste timber or somewhere that wont get too much scrutiny Cheers Murray P |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 236874 | 2004-05-15 08:28:00 | I've become hooked on Danish Oil recently. It is expensive compared to beeswax or linseed oil but it looks good after rubbing down with #0000 grade super fine steel wool. 2 or 3 coats are required. | Terry Porritt (14) | ||
| 236875 | 2004-05-15 08:32:00 | Just seen Murrays comments re oil and wax on window frames etc. Probably have to agree with that, I was thinking of interior rimu cabinet work and bookshelves etc | Terry Porritt (14) | ||
| 236876 | 2004-05-15 09:57:00 | Heres a product (www.eastag.co.nz) I have used & recommend, I used it on a coffee table a mate built for us out of recycled rimu & one of the good things is that it doesn't go blotchy like some products such as Tung Oil when the surface comes into contact with water. Steve |
Steve Askew (119) | ||
| 1 2 3 4 5 | |||||