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| Thread ID: 58295 | 2005-05-27 21:44:00 | wiring cupboard door switch | micky (7329) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 358937 | 2005-05-27 21:44:00 | I'm trying to fit a cupboard door switch, with just the 2 wires live & neutral. Which come from the mains then to the 3 connections (switch) then the light. The switch that I have is marked 1. Common 2. Normally open. 3. Normally closed, So whats the wiring configuration to the 3 connections acting as the switch? | micky (7329) | ||
| 358938 | 2005-05-27 22:58:00 | The most common set up is for the cupboard door to be making contact with the switch and depressing the springy metallic lever (or just a plastic button) when the door is closed. Opening the cupboard door releases the lever/button and turns on the light. Thus you'll need to use 1 (common) & 3 (normally closed). However, if you build your cupboard in such a way that the door ends up depressing the switch when opened, then use 1 (common) & 2 (normally open). I have seen hotel room cupboards overseas work this way, some use levers while others use a pull cord operated switch. HTH T |
Tom McB (832) | ||
| 358939 | 2005-05-27 23:20:00 | I'm trying to fit a cupboard door switch, with just the 2 wires live & neutral. Which come from the mains then to the 3 connections (switch) then the light. The switch that I have is marked 1. Common 2. Normally open. 3. Normally closed, So whats the wiring configuration to the 3 connections acting as the switch? It is not legal in NZ for you to connect this wiring, and if you need to ask these questions you probably don't have adequate knowledge to complete the work safely. This work classifies as installing fixed wiring, and although you can legally install the conductors and switch, you may not connect it to the supply. That must be done by a licensed electrician who will test the circuit and issue a Certificate of compliance. If you just do it all yourself, or don't get a certificate of compliance your insurance company may not pay out if a fault in the circuit or its wiring cause fire or other damage. The advice given re the switch connections is accurate, but Tom neglected to mention that the supply wire only will be switched, the neutral passes direct from source to the lamp. Where do you intend to take the supply from? It cannot simply be tapped off a convenient power point, but could come from an adjacent lighting circuit. If no localised source is available it must then come from the correct circuit at the switchboard, and as I have said above, it is neither legal nor safe for you to attempt that yourself unless you have adequate knowledge. Fault currents at switchboard level can be very high indeed. I am not trying to rain on your parade Micky, but you need to know these things because it is clear from your questions that your electrical knowledge is very limited. Cheers Billy 8-{) |
Billy T (70) | ||
| 358940 | 2005-05-28 00:04:00 | 5-10 amp curcuit breaker ----> red wire, at least 1 . 0mm² ----> "common" on switch . Either "1" or "2" depending on how switch is mounted ----> red wire, at least 1 . 0mm² ----> light fitting ----> blackwire, at least 1 . 0mm² ----> nuetral bar on switchboard . Everything must be firmly mounted and insulated so a tool must be used to get to live components . The light must be of low enough wattage that it will not overheat the cupboard should the switch fail . This can happen . (no flood lights . . . 'Kay) No flex, all connections should be tight enough not to pull apart, and finally, pay a sparky to look it over, and expect it to cost the same as what it would have cost for the sparky to do the job in the first place . |
personthingy (1670) | ||
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