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Thread ID: 61301	2005-08-31 05:19:00	WAY OT: PVC pressure pipe	DangerousDave (697)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
384901	2005-08-31 05:19:00	Hey guys, I've got a little project going on and I'm trying to find lengths of PVC pressure pipe with diam of 50mm and 100mm. I've looked everywhere and places like Mastertrade are damn expensive ($50 a metre). Anyone have any ideas in the Auckland region where one can find cheap pressure pipe. I was thinking those little trade stores that are so hard to find! Thanks in advance, David	DangerousDave (697)
384902	2005-08-31 05:28:00	PVC won't stand the temperature of the rocket fuel if you're making SAMs. :cool: That does look a bit expensive. It's probably cheaper (maybe only $30 a metre ;) ) if you buy a full length, rather than cut pieces. I assume you mean the "soil pipe" type rather than real "pressure" pipe. Try a few drainage contractors ... they might have offcuts or even damaged lengths. I suspect any retail places would charge similar prices.	Graham L (2)
384903	2005-08-31 05:49:00	I'm going to pump about 100PSI through it. All through the guise of a 'physics experiment' of course.	DangerousDave (697)
384904	2005-08-31 13:55:00	Go to an Ag centre or someone like Humes . You'll most likely be looking for bue pipe with black stripes, especially if your going to run above ground . It will come with black couplings . If it's going to be buried just plain old blue will do, but, 100mm implies some pressure may be applied so, take head of imbedment material and depth specified if any . Sorry I can't remember the name of the stuff, but I don't think it's polybutylene, could be polyethylene, although that doesn't sound right either . There is a glueable one fit for water at pressure, but must be buried IIRC and more likely to have trouble at the joints, particularly if you have some tightish curves (bends are out except with fitted elbows) . The reason I mention this one, is I believe it is cheaper and would be fine for temporary work, even above ground if your not cranking the pressure too much .	Murray P (44)
384905	2005-09-01 06:03:00	In the US, we use Schedule 80 PVC for 150 lb air pressure to supply air tools from the compressor in auto shops . Schedule 40 will work, but is not allowed per building and safety codes, and Schedule 20 is totally outta the realm . Fluids should not "slug" the lines, or they will cause premature wall and joint failure . It is suggested that the flow of fluids be regulated and not subjected to extreme cycles of high and low pressure . Sched 80 is good for 250 lb peak pressure at the diameter you say you wanna use, and about 200 lb working pressure . All joints/couplings must be of the same rating as the base pipe, or the qualification of the pipe shall be lowered to the rating of the joints used . No steam condensate return or heated fluids over 125 degrees F at any time . Sched 40 will accept 150 lb peak, and a working presure of 85, I think . The joint rules apply here again as for Sched 80, but using Sched 80 joints and couplings is suggested when possible . Heated fluids restrictions apply here too . However, Sched 40 PVC IS allowed as the flu/vent pipe for inverted flame space heaters with thermal efficiency ratings of 93% or greater . (Ever hear of that?) Sched 20 is for regulated pressure below 45 lbs for irrigation and lawn-sprinkling, no head pressures and no surge . There is no degradation considered for using lighter certified joints/couplings, as there are none valued less than Sched 20 joints anyway . Fluids (water) may not exceed 80 degrees F for this Sched pipe at any time . Since most irrigation and sprinkler pipe systems are self-buried underground, there should be little degradation of capacity in pressure (nominal anyway) . ABS (acetyl-butyl-styrene) pipe is not for pressures at all, unless they are incidental and during flow, but the system may not be dead-ended and allow pressure build-up . Primarily a sewage flow pipe . Fluids in ABS pipes should not exceed ambiant temperatures, or never exceed 125 degrees F . ALL PVC (poly-vinyl-chloride) pipes must be installed out of Ultra Violet (sun) light, incidental or direct, as deterioration is quick and pressure ratings drop by 40% per annum . All joints must be pre-primed with the appropriate solvent, and then gapless glued with a 1/4 turn twist . In other words, the joint must be glued and instantly rotated about 90 degrees to insure full solvent bond to the joint . All burrs must be removed prior to joining any pipes and couplings to eliminate any gaps in solvent/cement bond caused by "wiping" away the glue upon insertion of the male component with burrs . Spin-joints are not certifiable . Solvent-based cements or glues must be approved for the type of pipe in use, and may not be heated or thinned for any reason . Only approved primers or pre-cleaners may be used of and for the type of pipe being prepared . Cements and solvents may NOT be placed into the Female section of the joint to be made . All cements/solvents shall be placed around the periphery of the Male component being joined . All joints/couplings shall be of the same material or plastic of the pipe in use . PBS (poly-butyl styrene) and PBA (poly-butyl acetate) is not for more than 40 lbs water pressure at any time, any diameter or wall thickness, but may be used in full sunlight . There are a lot of other plastic pipes that are in use in the US, but these are some of the codes I hadda remember as a stationary steam engineer in a Los Angeles Hospital . I have an unlimited horsepower steam engineers' license too . Generally, building codes are a lot stricter than general construction codes for personal situations . Hospital codes are very much more strict than general building codes, and may not be field-operator friendly . . . in other words, it might cost a lot to bring something up to hospital codes, when they aren't necessary for the average homeowner . We live in lawyer-land . We overbuild everything and COOB! (cover our own butts!) Or BYOA (bring your own attorney!)	SurferJoe46 (51)
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