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Thread ID: 62869	2005-10-22 05:33:00	saab 9000 csi, electric window problem	theother1 (3573)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
398333	2005-10-22 05:33:00	Wouldn't you know it? It is a long weekend and we were planning some trips away and the passenger window in the Saab is stuck in the open position. I have checked the fuse and found no help there. Tried to get into the switch in the between seat console without luck is there an auto electrician among us who can advise me how to get into the thing and find a solution?	theother1 (3573)
398334	2005-10-22 07:41:00	Take off the door panel and try and mechanically operate the motor mechanism (the problem could easily be in the door anyway) to close the window.	godfather (25)
398335	2005-10-22 09:07:00	Thanks GF, I have put a plastic windscreen over it for now as I am going whitebaiting in the early morning. I will try to fix it monday but if I can't I will put it in on tuesday am and let the pro's do it. Cheers	theother1 (3573)
398336	2005-10-23 00:49:00	Flash the BIOS :D	Graham L (2)
398337	2005-10-23 03:12:00	The switch is usually the last thing to check . . . but they are easily testable by just popping them outta the console, however the recent Saabs use two different window regulators . . . cable or ribbon which ARE the likely culprits! Most repairs require taking off the inner door panel (special tools) and using a test light to see if the electricity is actually getting to the motor . (Do this first thing . . . make sure the power is actually getting to the motor) . If you have Bosch motors in the doors, then they use a floating ground that switches with the power (B+) side thru the crossover switch (the one in the center console) to reverse the polarity to make the window motor go forward or backwards, making the window go up or down . OK? Simple . . but if you DO have a bad motor (not likely), you have to do some drilling into the inner door panel (the metal area, not the stuff you see on the outside that has the plastic/leather/carpet etc on it . From there you can see if the cables/ribbon are broken (usually the problem is here) . Broken things here indicate the tendency to push the window button longer than necessary to fully close the glass . . . usually be the pasenger complaining they feel a draft and they keep their finger on the switch . Anyway . . . and this is the usual broken thing with most power windows, if the cables or the ribbon-type are broken, watch out as there is a nasty helper spring that you will have to contend with that will damage your fingers, hands or nose or all the aforementioned if you get it too close! This can be done by do-it-yourself-ers, but I suggest you get at least an inkling as to what you are gonna find in there . Does NZ have Chilton's Manuals? Motors Manuals? Clymer's Manuals? Any of them are good for the shade-tree mechanic . Not knowing the full year/production date and VIN, makes it a little harder to be accurate with the mechanical design and the type car you have tell from this distance . As a retired auto mechanic with this very experience, I offer to make a service call to your home . Send me 1st Class airfare from LAX to wherever you are on that island, provide me with some lamb-chops and a few of those really huge Aussie Beers (Fosters???) that Paul hogan usta drink in that comedy series where he was a lifesaver, and a warm cot and I will be on the next plane . The official labor rate from Mitchel-On-Demand is: 1987-93 900 Series, w/w-o turbo is 1 . 9 hours 9000 Series, same vintage 0 . 9 hours 1994 900S 2 . 0/2 . 3L engines 0 . 7 hours " " 2 . 1L engine 1 . 3 hours The highest time/labor quote is for the 1994 900 Turbo V/6 engine at 2 . 1 hours All rates will be computed in US $ at $80 . 00/hr and payable in coin-of-the-realm . I will bring my own tools at no extra cost to you! So . . . it's not too hard by a practiced tech to do . . . if you'ver never done this and want to, figger a day or two + time to get the correct parts .	SurferJoe46 (51)
398338	2005-10-23 07:15:00	Joe, Thanks for your comments. I am in New Zealand not Australia and we drink Speights or Steinlager here. However, I would be happy to fund your trip down under, unfortunately I am bereft of capital and that is why I want to fix this thing myself. I will post the VIN tomorrow year is 1998 model 9000 csi. Cheers Rob	theother1 (3573)
398339	2005-10-23 22:18:00	Hi Joe,I notice it is a 97 build car not 98 as previously mentioned Vin number is ys3cd68u9v1017787 I am having trouble getting the swithes out of the console. I don't want to force them ad break something. Is there a trick to them? Appreciate your help, Rob.	theother1 (3573)
398340	2005-10-26 01:47:00	Wow! A 9000csi . . . hmmmm . . . we don't see them here in the US, don't even have a flat-rate for that model . . . . but I do believe it's the same as a 9000 Aero or CDE or CS or CSE . Anyway . . . the fact that it's a 6 cylinder makes the rate especially lower . . . wow! Can you go figger for yourself? Any of the V6 9000 series are jobbed out at 0 . 9 hours to replace the window regulator motor per door . As far as the switches go, they are really just a pop-out . . . let me try to find a picture for you . I just got back from a 3-day trip to St . George Utah to deliver some household goods to some friends who just moved there . . . . . I need beer and lots of it to get the trip outta my mind . . . . Promise to return in person next day or so . . . let me sleep a while . 'Till then, use the handyman's universal tool, Duct Tape . (per Red Green)	SurferJoe46 (51)
398341	2005-10-26 07:10:00	Thanks Joe, have utilised the black duct tape and plastic windscreen in the meantime. I have booked in with the Auto Electrician for friday morning (it is wednesday evening as I write this). The local SAAB agent quoted NZ$1000 plus tax to complete this repair!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Look forward to your report. Cheers, Rob	theother1 (3573)
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