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Thread ID: 142786	2016-09-10 03:52:00	Paraffin Wax	Driftwood (5551)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
1425854	2016-09-10 03:52:00	Anyone know what I could use (other than heat) to dissolve candle wax into a liquid. I want to be able to use it as a dry lubricant. Whatever it is would have to dissipate/evaporate to leave a dry wax film. Someone suggested turpentine, but that didn't do it completely. There is a product called Squirt which is pretty much the end product I want. But it is not cheap	Driftwood (5551)
1425855	2016-09-10 06:46:00	I suggest White Spirit, available at any paint store. It is inflammable like most paint solvents so be careful when you heat it up to dissolve the candle wax. The subsequent evaporation of the solvent will take some time as it has a long 'tail' ie 95 per cent will occur within the first day or so and the remainder could take a few days depending on the ambient temperature	bonzo29 (2348)
1425856	2016-09-10 09:29:00	'Ceraclen' might be suitable as the end product. Used for ceramic cooktops. Comes in a plastic bottle with a squirt top. At supermarkets for about $7	BBCmicro (15761)
1425857	2016-09-10 09:41:00	I spent many years, as a Organic Chemist working with foot size slabs of Paraffin wax, to research as moisture/gas vapor barrier in the food packaging industry. Also did mechanical tests .Once commonly used for lettuce cases, and some horticultural fruit trays. OK...being a non polar compound, it somewhat dissolves in petroleum products (short chained hydro carbons/aliphatic compounds). Thus white spirits - depending on what trace chemicals are present (supplier dependent and if it's AR - analytical reagent grade - usually more costly) will work - I suspect if toluene is present. But slowly. We used ether or benzene - by scraping the wax in it, and gently heating to form a emulsion. Then dip circular Kraft papers (60 mm radius). Or "roll" the resulting emulsion with Mayer threaded "draw down" hand rods, of different application thickness across many paper/board types. Let it dry then seal it to aluminium cups trapped with calcium chloride (to absorb moisture) v- then weigh over a few days - weeks - months even to calculate moisture uptake. As for squirt dry lube (www.squirtlube.com) I think you mean, I'm sure I have made it inadvertently numerous times, Using trace amounts of the above chemicals, forming a emulsion. Dunno what the partial soluble chemicals they are using - but would need be trace amounts to meet hazard reg's.	kahawai chaser (3545)
1425858	2016-09-10 10:54:00	Engine Degreaser?	Paul.Cov (425)
1425859	2016-09-10 20:53:00	You can buy dry lubricant at Mitre10 its not that expensive	gary67 (56)
1425860	2016-09-10 22:01:00	Thanks for the input guys. A few options to consider.	Driftwood (5551)
1425861	2016-09-10 23:30:00	'Ceraclen' might be suitable as the end product. Used for ceramic cooktops. Comes in a plastic bottle with a squirt top. At supermarkets for about $7 This is a dilute solution of silicone fluid in a solvent.	bonzo29 (2348)
1425862	2016-09-11 00:13:00	Got a similar product here, Cerapol. Would be a bit reluctant to use it, not knowing what is in it. This is all about MTB chain lubricant. A friend & I have identical mountain bikes & use the same dusty tracks. He uses wet lubricant. I decided to go dry & compare the mileage we get out of the chains. He has done about 10,000k & is on his 4th chain. I have only done 2500k with no measurable wear yet. I initially soaked the chain in molten candle wax & have been using Squirt every 100k. So I'm going through the Squirt & it's around $17 for 120ml. Paraffin candle wax is cheap but not that easy to put on the chain. The spray on dry lubes work out fairly expensive too & comments are they don't last as long as Squirt.	Driftwood (5551)
1425863	2016-09-11 00:50:00	Years ago, and by that I mean in the 1950/60s I used to buy a motorcycle chain lubricant which was a solid grease loaded with molybdenum disulphide in a large round shallow tin. Chain was first cleaned as good as possible, then coiled up and placed on grease. The tin was then heated on the stove until the grease was liquid and enough time allowed for the grease to penetrate.. Chain was taken out and suspended over tin until all liquid surplus had run off, and the grease had solidified.. It was made by Edward Joy and sons which is now unfortunately defunct as are most British firms of my day, and was called Linklyfe. There may be a similar product for m/bikes, or you could try making your own if you can get hold of the moly.	Terry Porritt (14)
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