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Thread ID: 142891 2016-10-02 22:16:00 headlight Cleaning kahawai chaser (3545) PC World Chat
Post ID Timestamp Content User
1426839 2016-10-04 06:08:00 I use cut&polish compound with a woolen pad on a rotary buff at work (a dealership), and it works well, but sometimes the dirt and crazing is also on the inside.
Trying to take the lens off is not recommended, is usually clipped/glued/fused together, not serviceable (you'll break it), many dollars for new headlight.
There are people who'll come to your abode and do it for you
http://www.renewcar.co.nz/
In Orcland anyway. 		feersumendjinn (64)
1426840 2016-10-04 06:37:00 I use cut&polish compound with a woolen pad on a orbital buff at work.

Edit :-) 		feersumendjinn (64)
1426841 2016-10-15 01:47:00 As suggested by Plod Jiff (paste) worked. Best use of jiff so far. Along with $4 750 ml spray bottle of Jiff glass cleaner. Been over 10 days and lens still pretty clear. So looks pretty new lens... kahawai chaser (3545)
1426842 2016-10-15 02:06:00 Also did son in laws - could see the yellowish tainted compound wiped off on the jiff paste mix rag. Horribly dull/yellow to near crystal clear lens... kahawai chaser (3545)
1426843 2016-10-15 03:11:00 Tried with toothpaste with a clean cloth, about a week ago. Works pretty well on one side but not so well on the other. :(

May try Jiff, will Jiff cause scratches? 		bk T (215)
1426844 2016-10-15 08:05:00 Headlights already had fine scratches from a while back, using wet/dry paper. But I gave up - too time consuming - but great video here (www.youtube.com) for permanent fix from Chris Fix - using Clear Coat.

But no scratch marks on the second car pair of headlight lens I cleaned. Though the Jif was watered down to a slurry from a paste on a white rag, and gently rubbed on - non sparingly (with water). Then immediately sprayed off with water - then rubbed again with Jif slurry and jif Easy Lift Glass Cleaner. 		kahawai chaser (3545)
1426845 2016-10-16 06:14:00 I was buffing out a clear coat on a hood (NZ= bonnet) for a buddy and I gave his Ford F350 Diesel headlights a shot too.

I was using a 7 inch wool muff and a 3/4 HP two speed air buffer.

I started with Meguire's Step 1 Medium Cut Machine Buffing Compound. Pretty gritty, but it 'dies' as it cuts and gets finer and finer until it stops cutting at all.

Be sure to 'pick clean' the wheel between cutting compounds.

Then I went to Meguire's Step 9 Swirl Remover 2.0 which is also a very fine cutting agent. It too dies as it's used so in the end there are no marks at all. .

The final application of Meguire's Deep Crystal Step 3 Carnauba Wax for a clear coat.

I saw his truck a few days ago and after more than a year it still looks good.

Thanks for the brainreminder as I wanted to do my 1986 K5 Chevy Blazer taillights. I just converted them to LED and they are pretty if the lenses shine a bit more.

Youse guy got Mr. Clean? And Jif? And Handy Andy? Wow! We had them in the 1960s and it has gone from the stores here - they've been gone for a decade or more I think.

Jif, however, came back as peanut butter. So much for product crossover! 		SurferJoe46 (51)
1426846 2016-10-16 22:20:00 I was buffing out a clear coat on a hood (NZ= bonnet) for a buddy and I gave his Ford F350 Diesel headlights a shot too .

I was using a 7 inch wool muff and a 3/4 HP two speed air buffer .

I started with Meguire's Step 1 Medium Cut Machine Buffing Compound . Pretty gritty, but it 'dies' as it cuts and gets finer and finer until it stops cutting at all .

Be sure to 'pick clean' the wheel between cutting compounds .

Then I went to Meguire's Step 9 Swirl Remover 2 . 0 which is also a very fine cutting agent . It too dies as it's used so in the end there are no marks at all . .

The final application of Meguire's Deep Crystal Step 3 Carnauba Wax for a clear coat .

I saw his truck a few days ago and after more than a year it still looks good .

Thanks for the brainreminder as I wanted to do my 1986 K5 Chevy Blazer taillights . I just converted them to LED and they are pretty if the lenses shine a bit more .

Youse guy got Mr . Clean? And Jif? And Handy Andy? Wow! We had them in the 1960s and it has gone from the stores here - they've been gone for a decade or more I think .

Jif, however, came back as peanut butter . So much for product crossover!

I too converted tail and reverse lights to LED's and added LED strips under the seats, and daisy chained them to a 12V spst toggle switch wired directly to "ignition on" 15 A fuses . I tried the "add a fuse circuits" (images here) ( . gl/LvNZbZ" target="_blank">goo . gl) (including the mini's) - but bit too big and awkward to fit into the fuse recesses . Unless if I file/dremel away the surroundings .

l also wired LED strips under the dash to the "negative" switch at the junction box connectors/relays - so they light up when the doors are opened or when the dome light is on - either manually or auto via the ignition key and doors .

But Honda ECU/electrical circuit don't like the low amp LED brake lights - It shrieks a high pitched irritating alarm . Need to increase current I think by soldering in resistors (or bolting/wiring on high resistor "block style load resistors" ( . gl/A7m3q9" target="_blank">goo . gl) to the bulb connectors .

Jif/Handy And/Ajax still around along with many other dearer and cheaper local and imported products . . . 		kahawai chaser (3545)
1426847 2016-10-17 01:02:00 I just wired in a couple of conventional 2 tungsten bulbs in the same circuits and black painted the bulbs and tucked them into voids behind the new LED system . Seems to work by adding some load to it .

No shrieking then . 		SurferJoe46 (51)
1426848 2016-10-17 03:10:00 Good idea. Thanks. Never thought of using the many filament bulbs/connectors I have. With T Taps/Scotch-locks be straight forward to install(sort off - (small 8 mm nuts tightly buried in the back of tail-light hosing) to erase the pesky alarm. Might get 1/4" Hex Flex"extension and mini Hex ratchet and mini socket driver bits.

But bit odd - How can the ECU (I assume it's that which shrieks) be notified of low amps from the brake bulb? No sensor - and presumably no signal wire from brake circuit to ECU. Don't think there are CEL/MIL codes for low amp - or non working brake bulbs - or any bulb for that matter. 		kahawai chaser (3545)
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