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| Thread ID: 142786 | 2016-09-10 03:52:00 | Paraffin Wax | Driftwood (5551) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 1425864 | 2016-09-11 00:55:00 | Correction to my response should be Ceraseal Cerapol and Ceraclen are mild abrasives used for cleaning the ceramic hotplates before applying the Ceraseal polish cl Got a similar product here, Cerapol. Would be a bit reluctant to use it, not knowing what is in it. This is all about MTB chain lubricant. A friend & I have identical mountain bikes & use the same dusty tracks. He uses wet lubricant. I decided to go dry & compare the mileage we get out of the chains. He has done about 10,000k & is on his 4th chain. I have only done 2500k with no measurable wear yet. I initially soaked the chain in molten candle wax & have been using Squirt every 100k. So I'm going through the Squirt & it's around $17 for 120ml. Paraffin candle wax is cheap but not that easy to put on the chain. The spray on dry lubes work out fairly expensive too & comments are they don't last as long as Squirt. |
bonzo29 (2348) | ||
| 1425865 | 2016-09-11 01:10:00 | Chain wax......www.feked.com Also you can get it here www.boydmotorcycles.co.nz ......at enormous cost :) |
Terry Porritt (14) | ||
| 1425866 | 2016-09-11 01:15:00 | Years ago, and by that I mean in the 1950/60s I used to buy a motorcycle chain lubricant which was a solid grease loaded with molybdenum disulphide in a large round shallow tin. Chain was first cleaned as good as possible, then coiled up and placed on grease. The tin was then heated on the stove until the grease was liquid and enough time allowed for the grease to penetrate.. Chain was taken out and suspended over tin until all liquid surplus had run off, and the grease had solidified.. It was made by Edward Joy and sons which is now unfortunately defunct as are most British firms of my day, and was called Linklyfe. There may be a similar product for m/bikes, or you could try making your own if you can get hold of the moly. Used a similar product on my motorbike chains back in the 70's Would probably work ok for this situation too but not very convenient taking the chain off. I think the dust would stick to it anyway. Just experimenting now with different silutions. Using a old deep fryer with water in it to melt the wax in the solution. So far engine degreaser & turpentine look the most promising. See what happens when it cools down. |
Driftwood (5551) | ||
| 1425867 | 2016-09-11 01:26:00 | Used a similar product on my motorbike chains back in the 70's Would probably work ok for this situation too but not very convenient taking the chain off. I think the dust would stick to it anyway. Just experimenting now with different silutions. Using a old deep fryer with water in it to melt the wax in the solution. So far engine degreaser & turpentine look the most promising. See what happens when it cools down. Yep. Experiment is key. Make a soluble wax concoction to trial. Want durability and effectiveness (to get lube into pins ) Maybe simply soak chain in a small bit of 2 stroke/fine machine oil/ and petrol. |
kahawai chaser (3545) | ||
| 1425868 | 2016-09-11 01:40:00 | Note though - Safety, glasses, gloves, and should read the chemical MDS (safety) sheets, e.g. for Turpentine here. (www.sciencelab.com) | kahawai chaser (3545) | ||
| 1425869 | 2016-09-11 01:45:00 | A wax or heavy grease is needed so that it doesn't drain out of the links, and at the same time keeps the dust out as much as possible. | Terry Porritt (14) | ||
| 1425870 | 2016-09-11 05:04:00 | A wax or heavy grease is needed so that it doesn't drain out of the links, and at the same time keeps the dust out as much as possible. Squirt seems to do that fairly well. |
Driftwood (5551) | ||
| 1425871 | 2016-09-11 05:44:00 | Official test results have just come in. Engine degreaser. Separated completely with a layer of solid wax on top. Turpentine Set to a thick white gel, like firm honey. Methylated spirits (didn't have any white on hand) Wax separated to a white blob in the bottom. In each case was about 50/50 mix. Going to add some more turps to the brew & see what happens. Also found out something I didn't know before, meths has a lower boiling point than water. |
Driftwood (5551) | ||
| 1425872 | 2016-09-11 23:08:00 | dusty conditions, in NZ winter :) Dust isnt whats really bad for chains & bearings , mud is much worse (it can soak in & get past bearing seals) I used to boil my motorbike chain in grease. It came in a special metal can, put the chain in the can & heat in the oven (stinky) There are a few Mtn bike chain lubes that are wax in a solvent : a wet lube with wax dissolved in it. Been using those for years Squirt in on the chain , solvent dissolves leaving the wax. I used to use the RocknRoll paraffin wet lube, the guy at the bike shop said Squirt is better so using that now www.torpedo7.co.nz Im sure with most chain lubes, all you are really doing is lubing the outside In fact , the Aus Sports institute did research on this: thats what the found : chain lube is mainly keeping out the dirt & dust. I dont think you can compare one bike riders chain wear with another. Too many factors : type of chain(some are better than others) , weight of rider & bike, how the chain is cleaned after each ride , condition of sprokets, peddaling/riding technique etc |
1101 (13337) | ||
| 1425873 | 2016-09-12 00:04:00 | Meths/and Alcohols - banned in some labs and require NZ Govt customs log book, which I had to fill in after each use. Chemicals in large NZ sites did actually disappear. I think major issue in the US. I recall meths ended up in the hands of street alcoholics, causing blindness. Maybe it's time for a self lube chain, or addition of a disposable cheap metering valve. After set K's swap the chain - so have a couple on standby. Or can't they change the roller material construction - so they can be easily clicked off to replace. |
kahawai chaser (3545) | ||
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