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| Thread ID: 65913 | 2006-02-04 07:50:00 | Timber, the finishing of? | Murray P (44) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 427163 | 2006-02-04 21:48:00 | As Scouse says it all depends on the timber, but in your case you may be causing yourself considerable grief by say using linseed oil and then trying to get polyurethane or the like to stick. A lot of what you can do now is dependant on what you have already done. :( |
B.M. (505) | ||
| 427164 | 2006-02-04 23:57:00 | If you want a tough durable finish for a table or similar and you don't want an antique look moisture cured polyurethane as used for floors can give nice results and is bullet proof for stains. It tends to float off giving a mirror like finish. It goes tacky and will pull if you try to touch up a spot you missed a short while ago, you are best to leave and give another coat. Using Resene's( no I don't work for them I just reckon Resene and Agrippa are the best paints around) Polythane you can get three coats on in a day with a light sand between. | mikebartnz (21) | ||
| 427165 | 2006-02-05 00:11:00 | I was told by a 2nd hand dealer-cum-rogue that you put the linseed, chelac [?sp], etc., on with a polypad - [not the soap version though] but can't remember how many coats he said to do. It's not too harsh on the wood and helps to get the lubricants in. He had some beautiful results on the furniture he had done up. |
MMM (5660) | ||
| 427166 | 2006-02-05 00:32:00 | I was told by a 2nd hand dealer-cum-rogue Yes, I like that. Over the years I have done many rescue/botch up jobs for such blokes and just thinking of some of their activites makes me smile. | Scouse (83) | ||
| 427167 | 2006-02-05 00:56:00 | If you want the traditional finish, by all means go with the traditional methods and materials (which often have a fair element of magic and mysical incantations involved ... because great-great-grandfather did it this way). But teacup or booze rings and hot plate marks often need major refinishing efforts. The modern products do have many advantages. :D | Graham L (2) | ||
| 427168 | 2006-02-05 01:20:00 | I was told by a 2nd hand dealer-cum-rogue Yes, I like that. Over the years I have done many rescue/botch up jobs for such blokes and just thinking of some of their activites makes me smile. Hope you charged them the same "great deal" that they offered when scurrying away from their latest victim. |
MMM (5660) | ||
| 427169 | 2006-02-05 01:45:00 | Steady on the great-grandfather stuff there Graham - I recently joined that band of warriors. | Scouse (83) | ||
| 427170 | 2006-02-05 02:19:00 | Steady on the great-grandfather stuff there Graham - I recently joined that band of warriors.I thought I was safe by saying "great-great..." . Congratulations, perhaps you should change the name to Methuselah. :D I wasn't knocking the old ways ... but the amount of hard work to get results and the ease of damaging the finish makes them "economic" only if you are working for pleasure. As for paying someone to do this... |
Graham L (2) | ||
| 427171 | 2006-02-05 03:15:00 | Well I mostly lacquer my work,much prefer over poly,it doesn't look plastic. If I am going to oil job,then I use Liberon oil. I never thin it,just put on a coat,let dry and rub with 0000 steel wool,I do this till I get the finish I am after. If you think about it,what we want to do is deal with the surface finish,the soaking in is only to preserve. If you want to lacquer,it is easy.%250 will buy kit to do this. I also use 0000 steel wool on precat lacquer from Miratone,gives a nice satiny finish. If you want a waterproof finish,then you have seal first with a two pot concoction. With veneer I would only use lacquer. |
Cicero (40) | ||
| 427172 | 2006-02-05 04:27:00 | Thanks for all your replies . I guess I should have given you a few more specifics to go by, but didn't want to limit the responses . The item which prompted the query is a dining table I made from pre-loved/abused jarrah, of variable density and colour, hand dressed then hand planed and scraped to finish (not sanded) . So you see I'm a sucker for work to get the desired result . On the table, I used Cicero's Liberon as he described, but after the fact checked out some other oil methods that suggested cutting and rubbing dry as you go, rather than soaking, removing the excess and 0000 wool between applications (as with the Liberon) . I guess I'm on the right track . Mike B, I've used Miratone moisture cure on rimu, floors, doors and a cabinet I made with very good results, darkens and brings the grain out nicely, a bugger with sizzing on subsequent coats . I've also used a two pot lacquer on a large rimu dresser (well, actually a mate sprayed it at his cabinet makers shop, no longer available), while durable and no appreciable colour shift to the coating, the coating obviously sits atop the timber . Recoating, if I ever decide to do it, will be an absolute nightmare, more so than with poly I suspect (the drawback of any coating as opposed to an oil or wax) . Apart from the chairs I now have to make for the dining table, my next little job is to recoat a hand planed jarrah coffee table that's waxed over Danish oil . I was contemplating stripping it right back and giving the rubbing (with rag or 0000 steel wool) to dry method a go, what would you suggest Scouse, Cicero et al . Then again, I could chicken out and just re-wax it ;) |
Murray P (44) | ||
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