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| Thread ID: 65913 | 2006-02-04 07:50:00 | Timber, the finishing of? | Murray P (44) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 427153 | 2006-02-04 07:50:00 | What do you use to finish your pieces; oil, wax, a coating? What type, do you brew your own? Piece and/or species specific? Any difference between veneers and solid (I don't do veneer..but)? Why? Cicy! |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 427154 | 2006-02-04 08:12:00 | Paint is good. I used to buy cakes of beeswax and meld it down with white spirits. Then I tried a few oils, linseed, Danish wood oil, mixtures and then gave the whole lot up as too labour intensive and bought good quality mixtures ready-made from the shop. Anyway, I figure getting a good finish is not so much the product used as the labour applied. I like the french polishers' dictum. "Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then once a year." |
mark c (247) | ||
| 427155 | 2006-02-04 08:28:00 | I'm sure it's not what you're after, but I once restored an old chest of drawers and used marine varnish... perfect finish! | Shortcircuit (1666) | ||
| 427156 | 2006-02-04 08:57:00 | No not really SC, I'm more interested in Marc C's experiences I guess, but I'm willing to listen :thumbs: Marc, I've tried Danish with (store bought) bees wax, and I've tried linseed, now I've just tried a Liberon Finishing oil, which I suspect is Tung based . With all the oils, I've appled and taken off the excess, repeated as often as I thought necessary . However, I suspect I should be cutting it with white spirits, turps or alcohol, rubbing till dry and lessining the thinners on each subesequent coat until I have the desired finish . Whatdoya reckon peeps, in between building comps, sorting MS's little indiscretions and having fun with real software, what do you do with your lignum, hemi cellulose and cellulose to bring out it's best qualities? |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 427157 | 2006-02-04 09:26:00 | I know very little about this Murray, except that yes you should be cutting your linseed oil with turps or similar to help its absorption into the wood. Using it neat takes forever on some timbers. (Tip from an old cabinetmaker when I was cleaning up a table as a teenager, which was so long ago I can't ask him any more - for obvious reasons) Surely a lot depends on which timber involved? My antiques-potty friend has made a beautiful job of both a kauri table & mantel fire surround with beeswax alone, but the hours & hours of elbow grease she put in makes me tired just to think of it. I once asked the owner of a yacht, which I knew he'd built himself from Southland macrocarpa, how he got the beautiful finish on his joinery. The mixture was equal parts of 3 things, but I'm cursing that I can remember only linseed oil & turps - not the third. Anyway, what are you making/have made? Screenshot? |
Laura (43) | ||
| 427158 | 2006-02-04 10:05:00 | Yeah, I guess that's what I'm trying to get at, but cutting the mix down further. Although my tresults have been pretty good with pre-mixed oil of whatever concoctions (some don't specify the contents, smell and reaction on the timber give a pointer), I think I can do better and, I defintely haven't been putting enough elbow grease in, but, as I understand it, the oil concoction needs to be cut quite heavily, at least initially, to make this work. There is no info in this regard on the pre-mixed store bought oils I've used Perhaps the mixture your friend mentioned was something like linseed oil, spirits and a bit of polyurathane, oh and a lint free clothe or 12. That's thre sort of thing I want to know about, is it good, mix ratios, technique, etc. It's amazing what you can come up with if you pop any old random question on PF1, there's almost always more than one that's got some good info :thumbs: |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 427159 | 2006-02-04 11:41:00 | Boiled Linseed Oil, Mineral Turps. Shellac to seal after. This has worked for me on Oak for a coffee table and also a desk I made from Pinus Radiata. |
Sweep (90) | ||
| 427160 | 2006-02-04 19:08:00 | Paint is good. People who paint wooden furniture should be shot. |
pctek (84) | ||
| 427161 | 2006-02-04 19:37:00 | I like polyurethane. | Greg (193) | ||
| 427162 | 2006-02-04 21:11:00 | Hi Murray. As a lifetime cabinet maker and woodturner, I must have brewed and tried a hundred mixtures. All depends on your timber, whether it is going to be handled frequently, washed after use (salad bowls) and so on. Quick dry mix captures less dust, slow dry gathers the dust. Too much oil/wax in the mix shows water marks from glasses and heat. There are dozens of books out there dealing with wth this subject. Try a small google on something like "wood finishes oil". In my local woodworkers clubs I bet every second person, male and female, has their own secret or special brew. I made several condiment sets before Christmas and, because they were to be handled a lot, finished them with two coats of orange shelac for colour and body and then three coats of acrylic lacquer to make them bullet proof. For simple things in every day use such as bookcases, polyurethane is the answer. Thin the first coat as much as 30% so that it will soak well in and provide a firm foundation. Lightly sand between the coats. If you are going to make a home brew with polyurethane as an ingredient, use the high gloss or the boatbuilders spar version. If you play with linseed oil, use the so-called boiled version which contains dryers. Ordinary linseed oil can take a lifetime to dry and on occasions I have even had to wash it off some timbers. |
Scouse (83) | ||
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