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| Thread ID: 93307 | 2008-09-11 07:21:00 | Quality of burning media | GeneralKanos (13592) | Press F1 |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 704442 | 2008-09-11 07:21:00 | Hey guys, Just a quick question... Does anyone know if the quality (cheapness) of burning media (DVD's) affects how well, or even if the burning will complete successfully? I've tried burining a couple of DVD movies and at got to about 60% then failed (I tried several times). I think its the 'el cheapo' DVD's I'm using. The code on them is "CMDR47G-CTMWMOL-006" if that means anything to anyone. However this could also be my optical drive? I have a "TSSTcorp CD/DVDW SH-W162C ATA" if, again, that means anything. TIA GK |
GeneralKanos (13592) | ||
| 704443 | 2008-09-11 07:28:00 | Hmm depends what kind of movies youre talking about, and what programs youre using I've used a few of the cheap blank dvds, never had a prob with them |
Speedy Gonzales (78) | ||
| 704444 | 2008-09-11 07:49:00 | I use DVDFab Platinum to pull the main movie (Video_TS folder) off DVD's then burn it again. Apparently too some DVD drives dont support (dont like) particular cheap brands and so they sont work as good or something... I dunno... I just tried burning again using a differnent brand of DVD's (Sony ones) and it worked fine so I guess I'm gonn have to fork out a lil more and make sure to get branded DVD's next time :p |
GeneralKanos (13592) | ||
| 704445 | 2008-09-11 07:52:00 | Slow the burn speed right down don't just go for the max speed option. I hope your not pirating..... | gary67 (56) | ||
| 704446 | 2008-09-11 08:18:00 | Slow the burn speed right down don't just go for the max speed option . I hope your not pirating . . . . . +1 , this has a big impact on the end result . I also usually just switch to light tasks (browsing etc . ) while the computer is writing to disc . I guess the next question is, how "cheap" is the stuff you are using? Random unlabeled/unbranded stuff from the market? Usually the cheapest stuff you can find from the computer stores is still pretty good (as long as it has the DVD logo on it), since I believe in order to have the DVD logo there, it has to have met certain standards . Just to help diagnose the issue some more, I recommend ticking the 'simulate' or un-ticking the 'write' check box (it tends to be different depending on what writing software you are using, but basically it's the 'write simulation mode' you want) and give that a run . If it fails in simulation mode then it eliminates your media woes . |
Deathwish (143) | ||
| 704447 | 2008-09-11 08:22:00 | Yes speed is a biggie I'm running real cheap DSE DVD discs with no problems I tend to burn them at 16x and also tend to stick with light work until it's finished. | gary67 (56) | ||
| 704448 | 2008-09-11 10:35:00 | Yes speed is a biggie I'm running real cheap DSE DVD discs with no problems I tend to burn them at 16x and also tend to stick with light work until it's finished. gary67, that's interesting. I've had repeated troubles burning those 16x DVD-R discs from DSE. What brand of writer are you using? |
rumpty (2863) | ||
| 704449 | 2008-09-11 11:23:00 | No... Im no pirate (coughs conspicuously)... I read on another forum to slow the speed down too. They said about 8x (tho thats a bit slow for me). I was using unbranded printable DVD's. I got them, a 50 pack, for $25. Im not sure how much that is in comparison with other brands. |
GeneralKanos (13592) | ||
| 704450 | 2008-09-11 11:23:00 | I sometimes use Nero's Discspeed (http://www.cdspeed2000.com/) to scan the quality of the disc after I burn them. It lists the number of PI errors and PI Failures of the disc and gives a general score of disc quality for those who want a simple answer. I've been using Verbatim's DVD-R 8x for a while and they give good result. Those discs works on my ancient standalone DVD player too. I've done a test where I burnt a few discs in the end of 2006, and when I randomly remember I'll run the test again. Right now towards the end of 2008, the results looks nice and the errors haven't increased too much for my Verbatim discs. ..at the same time my princo discs...well the scan looked nice after a day after burning..but now after about two years the disc quality dropped significantly. So disc quality (reflected in their price) does make a difference, and how long they'll last will also be affected. :p just to make this post extremely long here's some extra detail: Discs only manufactured by a few company, so like in DVD Identifier or Discspeed can read a code which identifies the disc properly. so eg. a tdk disc might be the same as a sony disc (purely a random example) This is important when buying discs since you want to know exactly where they're from and you can look up the code online and determine if it's a good disc or not some drives like some disc better than other discs, try a few and find ones that match some burners burn better, my dvd writer in my desktop computer writes at a better quality than a drive in notebook... I should stop..so lastly: update the firmware of your drive if you really really want to, sometimes manufacturers update write strategies for their drive for certain blanks so they burn better... oh and since you said 60% of your disc failed I'm assuming complete coasters where the disc can't be read on any drive at all. If just your standalone player that rejects the disc...then need to find discs that work with your player |
heni72847 (1166) | ||
| 704451 | 2008-09-11 12:03:00 | Thanks for that. Some usefull knowledge for later... My drive has the latest firmware, I try to keep ontop of that. And after the disc failed burning about half (maybe) of the disc was written on (judging from the reflective side). One movie I did it would only play the menu and stopped at 4sec of the film itself. |
GeneralKanos (13592) | ||
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