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Thread ID: 143207 2016-12-17 03:26:00 It never gets any easier does it? prefect (6291) PC World Chat
Post ID Timestamp Content User
1429972 2016-12-18 03:41:00 "under body" hoist as opposed to the smaller rams they had between the cab and deck bevy121 (117)
1429973 2016-12-18 04:18:00 OK but most tip trucks have a hydraulic cylinder in front of the deck which tilts as it goes up. I have seen under body ones on small Jap import trucks. I was a hose doctor for yonks and did plumb a lot of tippers up prefect (6291)
1429974 2016-12-18 07:21:00 Yes, the Tk was a pleasure to drive as well. I used to drive for General Foods in the late 60's and was given a nice brand new one for my run. Bliss!!!!

Ken :) 		kenj (9738)
1429975 2016-12-18 07:48:00 Don't get easier with age too. I just finished replacing the clutch/bearing/pressure plate on my daughter's 1997 1.4L Holden Barina (Opel Corsa) (176, 960 km). Pics below. Reluctant to do it, and told her so - since last clutch job was about 1999, plus get hand cramps and sore back.

So what does a dad do to save around 450 bucks in labour? and her pestering me that she has little cash? of course fix it - perhaps grudgingly. But worked out easy - to remove/move axles/coolant hoses/wiring-sensors/speedo/dizzy/coil etc on/near gearbox, etc. So cramped - engine space. Being Euro car - most bolt sizes (13-15-16- 18-19) and some types (hex(torx for the calipers) were all different from the usual Jap car bolt sizes. Lucky I had those size tools - oh and reversible gear wrenches - come in real handy for tight spots and "double" loosening-torquing speedily, long pesky bolts/nuts

My arms/hands froze up - but rest - keep going. Then alignment issues during reassembly (not with the clutch plate - used deep socket -extension bar- easy), but "fat" long rear mount bolts, then ball joint flange-control arm-torsion bar-stabilizer bolt (needed to be dropped to drop/lower the gearbox) Then aligning the gear levers - linkage to reset the gears (5 speed). Tiny gearbox easy to pop back on with a makeshift block - trolley jack. I think timing belt/water pump be due about 15 k's time - dunno if looking forward to do that. 		kahawai chaser (3545)
1429976 2016-12-18 19:38:00 Well done. Your daughter must be very proud of her Dad. Richard (739)
1429977 2016-12-18 21:02:00 Well done. Your daughter must be very proud of her Dad.

Thanks. Well She is kinda proud/happy - told her though not tell her workmates at Mc Donalds. Some want brakes/CV's replaced she said. 		kahawai chaser (3545)
1429978 2016-12-19 02:34:00 Sounds like a second career for you. SurferJoe46 (51)
1429979 2016-12-19 18:56:00 Sounds like a second career for you.

Well repairs coming back to me - after growing up around car repairs, From Grandfather, Father, u
Uncles, etc when I was quite young. They all gone but kinda feel repairing cars for them sometimes. Never been about making money. Days ('70 to about '86) when the crank would be sent in to get turned, reaming with stone-honers, manual valve lapping, home made Tyre changers, block and tackle (US=chain block?) attached to the side of the house, etc.

But I still buy tools - just got me compression tester (may get leak down tester/vac tester), harmonic balancer, Breaker bars and 5-6 foot pipes (for crank bolts), U type bearing pullers. Just abandoned building H frame 12 ton press - Since now NZ Savebarn now importing them cheap. May also build/buy engine support-lift beam. Normally 3 stage torquing for removing/installing head bolts still?

SJ: you reckon worth buying/using torque wrench? My Norbar one not working after years of use...abuse. Might be helping neighbor replacing head gasket on '96 Toyota Estima. Quoted nearly 2 grand. But may try those liquid remedies first - about 60 buck NZ. Pro UTuber Mechanic Scott y Wilmer says try "Steel Seal" (www.youtube.com) (vid) Used in US much? Otherwise gonna a drop entire box-engine - could take hours to fix. 		kahawai chaser (3545)
1429980 2016-12-21 17:48:00 Partially requoted here, with bracketed comments by me . . . . . . . . . .

the crank would be sent in to get turned, {machined}

reaming with stone-honers,
{ball or stone? This is just usually called "glaze busting" --- as SERIOUS cylinder resizing would be an out of vehicle machine shop procesd .

FWIW: using a hone is usually counterindicated on most modern engines with the newer very thin compression rings on the pistons . A hone cannot replicate the factory surface . . . not near well enough anyway .

Therefor: IF the cylinders need to have a ridge removed or a scratch taken out of the cylinder wall, it's too late and needs new pistons/rings, etc . , AFTER a full remachining at a full service machinist's facility}

manual valve lapping,

{Never do this any more .

The modern valve theory requires a very accurate surface; the valve itself is first machined to a FLAT-FACE to seal correctly on a three-angle seat in the valve pocket .

"Lapping " destroys that critical machining process by forcing a now incorrectly cupped, matching parabolic surface, created by seeking to make the head and valve conform to each other by use of an abrasive .

The valve-to-seat seal theory is that as the temperature of the valve causes it to grow in circumference and it moves outwards on the seat, the seal quality is not destroyed .

Here's a pix of the valve seat, although for non-racing purposes, the diameter of the valve as indicated is much too small for reliable everyday engines and we NEVER sink a valve that deeply into the seat for correct flow: . com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/valve_diam2 . jpg}" target="_blank">johnmaherracing . com

home made Tyre changers, (US = small C4 charge)

block and tackle (US=chain block?) attached to the side of the house, etc .

{Send pix if you can . I'm always interested in these things . . . . . I live in what we call: "The John Deere Mentality Zone" here in Montana where some of the neatest yet unorthodox skills are used . }

But I still buy tools - just got me compression tester

{always a very good tool to finish a suspicious cylinder diagnosis . Don't grab it fiirst, though!

Crank the engine and do LISTEN TO IT'S CRANKING RHYTHM to affirm that you really need to get that deep into a diagnosis with a compression tester . }

(may get leak down tester/vac tester),

{Before I'd buy either of them, I'd get a smoke generator . I can discuss this idea later if you want . . . . my stylus is smoking, here typing on my tablet}

harmonic balancer {puller?},

Breaker bars and 5-6 foot pipes (for crank bolts),

{I'll teach you a good trick if you like for this part . . . without the hernia or lump on your forehead}

U type bearing pullers . p . {Do you mean a bearing splitter? }

May also build/buy engine support-lift beam .

{I tend to not use this as they're clumsy, always underfoot and not easily made accurate enough for engine pulling or stabbing}

Normally 3 stage torquing for removing/installing head bolts still?

{Some headbolts are set up to torque in degrees . . . . . . . .

After you get them all at an equal but very low torque point, in 3 stages most times, then you turn them x-number of degrees to get the bolts to yield but not past their modulus and they will hold equally .

You'll need a degree wheel for that system .

Some brought-to-mind values are:

Assuming all threads have been chased, cleaned and are lubricated with antiseize compound:
Torque all head bolts to 11 inch/pounds,
Release all head bolts .
Retorque to 33 inch/pounds
Release all head bolts
Torque to 17 foot/pounds and after all are equal,
Torque an additional 135° to final value .

A low value torque wrench starts it all off by setting the bolts at a very low torque value .

You'll need an inch-pound torque wrench once in a while . . . . especially on Kias and some other "eggshell casting engines" that rely on the headbolts for holding the taillights and trunk (boot) hinges too . }

SJ: you reckon worth buying/using torque wrench? My Norbar one not working after years of use . . . abuse .

{most "clicker" style torque wrenches get put away with the setting left where it was set last . That destroys the balance bar spring in short time making the wrench less and less accurate . Always release the adjustment before storing wrench .

For the "Floating pointer, I-beam" wrenches, they too should never be stored with other tools that might nick or dent the beam and render it unaccurate .

New torque wrenches were a constant staple of being a mechanic and also very expensive to me . . . . at least sending them out for recalibration every year or so . I only bought the clicker style, as the beam style ones are subject to human interpretation of where the pointer is, er . . . pointing!]

Might be helping neighbor replacing head gasket on '96 Toyota Estima . Quoted nearly 2 grand .

{That makes you a good neighbor . Do you make Trans-Pacific house calls?}


But may try those liquid remedies first - about 60 buck NZ . Pro UTuber Mechanic Scott y Wilmer says try "Steel Seal" (vid)

{This stuff is always kinda risky, but it's a viable emergency alternative to a real repair if you're stuck in Death Valley at midnight, needing to get your wife to the hospital a hundred miles away to deliver her baby . The engine would have given its life to get you to the doctor, but the engine isn't going to be any good afterwards . }

Used in US much?

{It's sold here but at the risk of destroying the engine . There is no mechanic in a can . }

Otherwise gonna a drop entire box-engine -

{A bottom-drop, huh? That means the whole drive train and front suspension (with halfshafts and transmission) that comes out from the bottom by dropping the K-member .

That's a lot of work without a vehicle hoist .

For this sort of job, I'd use a two-point lift to keep the front of the vehicle clear and in the open .

Be sure to put a screw jack or two under the rear of the vehicle to keep it from sliding off the hoist backwards when the engine/transmission weight is removed!

I guess, in a pinch, one could do this on one's back . . . . . on a creeper . . . . . but that's a tough way to go IMO . } 		SurferJoe46 (51)
1429981 2016-12-21 19:59:00 ... Might be helping neighbor replacing head gasket on '96 Toyota Estima. Quoted nearly 2 grand. But may try those liquid remedies first - about 60 buck NZ....

K-Seal is pretty clever stuff - worth a try on an old estima before pulling the engine, they are a real pain.... 		wratterus (105)
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