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| Thread ID: 143153 | 2016-12-04 20:05:00 | Painting the deck | Misty (368) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 1429427 | 2016-12-06 08:19:00 | But why the tradition of nails? seems old school. I think screws with an impact driver might be easier to drive in. Unlikely to pop/untwist. I have seen plenty of Torx and Robinson square screws used for sealing/patching up wood to wood - perhaps not so much in decks. Also in metal stairways. Using screws also allows ease of removal for panels if need be. | kahawai chaser (3545) | ||
| 1429428 | 2016-12-06 18:53:00 | I think speed is part of the reason. Builder with nail gun versus the time it takes to use screws. My deck is about 28 years old (if it was done at time of house build). My nails pop up, I just whack them down again now and then. I think the main issue is, the wood is starting to disintegrate, sadly. |
pctek (84) | ||
| 1429429 | 2016-12-06 19:10:00 | I read an article on "NAILS - AND HOW THEY WORK" a few years ago. When a nail is driven in, it forces the grain of the wood to be wedged and bent in the direction in which it enters the wood, thus forming lots of little one way wedges and hooks, keeping the wood 'clenched' so the nail is very hard to pull against the grain, back out. Since the pointy-end of the nail is a series of angled facets, the grain and wood is not cut as the nail enters: the wood is bent aside after it is forced open, and the grain just follows the nail as it passes by. That also explains the why and how of needing to blunt the end of a nail somewhat to make it punch through the wood and minimizing the amount on bent fibers in the wood, to keep the wood from splitting. The cut and punched clean ends won't force the wood to split if you do this little trick. It's the forced wedging of the wood that causes the piece of wood to split; punch a neat hole in it and it won't split. Over time, the expansion of the nail (it's metal, after all) and the pretty much non-expansion of the wood (because it's wood and doesn't move much during heat and cold variants), that causes the nail to 'ratchet' back out of the wood, a tiny bit each thermal cycle. There --- > you have the thermodynamics of nails. :nerd: PS: here in the US we call those nails that are above the surface "Sailors" for reasons that might have been written by a Marine or Army person. Maybe it's their white hats and the way they look when worn - like little nail heads. I dunnow. |
SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
| 1429430 | 2016-12-07 01:27:00 | the pretty much non-expansion of the wood (. Hmmm....makes sense, but my wood sure has expanded, warped and twisted. There's some meaty curves in some now, bit like a snake.... |
pctek (84) | ||
| 1429431 | 2016-12-07 01:59:00 | I believe it is caused by students jumping about. Unless you are prepared to use liberal doses of Brat-Stop, best to leave the nail heads unfilled, just like if you are in a student-free zone. If the nails are close to vertical, they will come out over time. Screws are a way of solving the problem, as is gluing sufficient layers of $20 notes across the deck. If you've priced stainless screws suitable for the task, you may find the "layers of notes" method is cheaper. | R2x1 (4628) | ||
| 1429432 | 2016-12-07 05:47:00 | This is from a major hardwood supplier and is their recommendations for all hardwood decking Introduction Proper care and maintenance will ensure you get the best performance from your deck. These recommendations should be read in conjunction with NZ3602, NZ3604, BRANZ Bulletin 489 and any relevant Territorial Authority requirements. Storage and Handling Garapa and Kwila decking should be kept dry and out of the weather until installation. On site each pack should be kept off the ground by placing it on bearers and covered to protect from sun and rain. Installation Ventilation Free air circulation under the decking is very important to help minimise cupping and warping. Proper ventilation ensures the potential difference in moisture levels between top face and the underside of the boards is reduced and extends the life and performance of the deck. The sub deck should have at least 450mm clearance from the ground. This, in conjunction with suitable spacing, will allow for adequate ventilation. NB: It is important that the perimeter of the deck is not fully enclosed by a surround, and remains open to airflow. Completely enclosing the sides of the deck will inhibit proper ventilation and compromise the performance of the decking. In wet areas or over water, additional clearance is recommended. Failure to provide for suitable ventilation is a major cause of early decking failure. Other steps that can be taken to minimise moisture differential are: 1. A ground level vapour barrier (with slit drainage). 2. A suitable surface coating on all four sides of the decking boards (refer coating section). Span Decking 19mm thick should be installed at maximum 450mm joist centres. For 32mm thick decking this can be increased up to 600mm joist centres. Given that Radiata pine joists are softwood where as Garapa and Kwila are a strong hardwood, the joists should be clean and sound and the screws should penetrate at least 40mm into the joists to achieve good holding. Pre-drilling and counter- sinking is essential to avoid end splits. End sealing End sealing will help minimise splitting and checking at the ends of the boards. We recommend the boards be end-sealed with a quality penetrating oil as soon as possible after cutting and before final installation. Coating In order to minimise surface checking, cupping and discolouration we often recommend Garapa and Kwila decking be coated on all four sides. This will slow moisture transference into and out of the wood, thus maintaining more even moisture content through the piece. Proper coatings can vastly decrease the maintenance required on your decking. NB: Boards should be free of all surface marks and stains before coating. We recommend that a “clear” decking oil is used. Spacing In average New Zealand climatic conditions, KD decking will expand slightly. KD (ie. under 18% moisture content) decking will need extra spacing or gaps, to allow for expansion as the decking takes in ambient moisture. If laid too closely at the outset, the deck will close up and possibly jack knife pieces off the joists. Garapa and Kwila are Kiln Dried. In average New Zealand climatic conditions 90x19mm Kiln Dried decking should be spaced 4mm apart and 140x19mm 6mm apart. The specified gap for each size will allow the deck to drain and allow air circulation under and around the decking. NB: These are recommendations only. An allowance for regional climate conditions should also be factored in. Fastening JSC Timber advocates that all hardwood decks are fixed with screws. Screws are essential for 140x19 decking. We recommend 60mm stainless steel screws through the pre-drilled face of each board, two per joist 20 mm from the ends and edges. Care should be taken not to over-drive screws. For 90x19 decking screws are also recommended. However, if you chose nails they should be of sufficient length (60mm) with annular grooves. Maintenance Cleaning & Washing Hardwood decks should be cleaned with a stiff brush at least once a year to clear gaps and remove surface mould which can be a slip hazard in wet weather. It is also important for the life of the deck to keep it clear of leaf litter, moving pot plants or other large objects that may hold moisture to the top of the deck. Hardwood decking can be waterblasted BUT it is important to do so at a low pressure so as not to damage the fibres of the board by going too hard and/or too close. Care must be taken not to stop at the end of the stroke but to lift the nozzle away when changing direction. Washing/brushing the deck down with a mild solution of janola and water (1:16), or suitable equivalent, will remove any build up of resin or extractives that may leach out of the timber as the pieces “season” in situ. There are also various chemical cleaning agents available, from detergents through to acids. Follow manufacturer’s instructions and be conscious of the run off. The amount of run off will depend on the specie, how dry it is before the decking is laid and how exposed the deck is to the weather. Re-coating Always follow the manufacturer’s specification for re-coating. |
gary67 (56) | ||
| 1429433 | 2016-12-07 08:18:00 | Didn't mention the foil hat. Ken :) |
kenj (9738) | ||
| 1429434 | 2016-12-07 09:46:00 | The ORANGE foil hat, thank you ;) | R2x1 (4628) | ||
| 1429435 | 2016-12-09 03:09:00 | I bought Resene's Moss and Mould killer, thinking it was reputable company. Find that it is just overpriced bleach. However many sites and authorities warn against using bleach as it damages the fibres in the wood. So, instead I have now bought some sodium percarbonate, which has worked very well and will not damage the deck. | Misty (368) | ||
| 1429436 | 2016-12-09 04:59:00 | My son is painting my deck tomorrow. After following this thread I thought I had better check mine for protruding nails. Couldn't find any. Guess they don't use them in concrete. Ken |
kenj (9738) | ||
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