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| Thread ID: 72857 | 2006-09-28 09:09:00 | Best Self-Priming Exterior Acrylic? | pctek (84) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 487886 | 2006-09-29 14:09:00 | I'd be reluctant to put primerless paint onto bare wood, I just don't think the compromise is worth the risk. If the coating fails, you have a huge job ahead to strip it back before you can start again. Never buy paint on price alone. Cheers Billy 8-{) Edit: Neighbours across the road have just painted their entire house in 2 coats of black acrylic with minimal prep. I'll bet the northern and north-western walls will need a repaint inside of 5 years! That's if the weatherboards don't warp right off the walls before then. Thunder Gloss all in one paint is perfectly alright without a seperate primer and for iron roofs Flakaproof (which is enhanced with linseed oil) is a great one paint roof paint. What I like about them is that I don't end up with a whole lot of part pails of paint left over in the same way as you do when using two paint types as you can use left over colours as a primer on the next job. I can't see the neighbours paint job lasting for 2 years. It will not even last 2 months if there was any oil based underneath as it will just bubble as soon as the sun hits it. Are they trying to cook their house. |
mikebartnz (21) | ||
| 487887 | 2006-09-29 21:00:00 | We are stripping the windows back. Not the weatherboards. Except a few spots that are peeling. | pctek (84) | ||
| 487888 | 2006-09-30 01:58:00 | When stripping windows and/or window frames I use a hot air gun and a silicon-carbide scraper. I use Linbide blades in a Sandvik scraper and it produces a finish that is virtually paint-ready. best investments I ever made! To avoid cracking the glass I have a piece of aluminum sheet that I use as a screen to keep the heat away from the glass so that I can get the paint bubbling. It also works well for cooking old putty to make it easier to remove. I have tried the rotary disks as suggested by GF but found clogging was a major problem on acrylics and poisonous dust containment was the problem with oil-based paints. Gouging was also an issue so you had to take extra care. I finally used heaps of heat plus the scraper and could remove paint faster than the sander if you also allow for the reduced cleanup time. A random orbit sander finished the job. This was all a "back to the wood" job for badly deteriorated paint and on the southern side I didn't need to do much more than wash it down and do a light run-over with the random orbit sander. I also tried a belt sander but that was no use either. Cheers Billy 8-{) |
Billy T (70) | ||
| 487889 | 2006-09-30 07:45:00 | Edit: Neighbours across the road have just painted their entire house in 2 coats of black acrylic with minimal prep. I'll bet the northern and north-western walls will need a repaint inside of 5 years! That's if the weatherboards don't warp right off the walls before then. __________________ It'll be lucky to last that long Billy if it is black or close to it, low relflective index paints are very susceptible to UV and movement through heat and also put the acid on the sbstrate due to increased heat. The warranty on that colour will be severely reduced. Goddy, it's a rule of thumb that the higher the % of gloss in a paint/coating, the more durable it is. Unforttunately, I spend most of my investigating and writing remedial works specs fo correcting the mistakes of ingnorant blowhard tradesmen. PCtek, what timber are the weatherboards. Cedar, redwood and totara require particular primers/sealers. Oil based or the new breed of "enamacryls" are best on opening sashes and frames, basically due to the strong attraction acrylics have to themselves they tend to stick together like the proverbial. As always, preparation is king. A good paint will not make up entirely what is lost in poor prep. |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 487890 | 2006-09-30 08:42:00 | PCtek, what timber are the weatherboards. Cedar, redwood and totara require particular primers/sealers. Oil based or the new breed of "enamacryls" are best on opening sashes and frames, basically due to the strong attraction acrylics have to themselves they tend to stick together like the proverbial. As always, preparation is king. A good paint will not make up entirely what is lost in poor prep. Uh, yeah. The house was built sometime in the first half of the1920s. I doubt its any of the 3 you mentioned. Nor is it pine. Yeah I know about the sticking thing. But everything I've read suggests enamels don't last as well as acrylics and judging by the state of most windows including ours round here, that seems to be right. We know about the prep, the windows have to come back to wood, they are the worst. The boards are mostly ok, just a few odd patchy spots. |
pctek (84) | ||
| 487891 | 2006-10-03 10:56:00 | The weather boards could be any of the above mentioned or most likely, matai or rimu with an outside chance of kauri or some other more easily procurred local native, such as kahikatea. Matai, IIRC, requires a sealer/primer. The window sashes are likely to be cedar/redwood, totara (NZ's equivalent) or rimu. Cedar and redwood can be identified by the more prominent late wood bands, totara is fine grained and even coloured (darkish, sometimes reddish, brown). One thing oil based paints do for old dry timber, is replenish it by replacing lost oils, probably more important in respect of windows and other areas where movement and cracking is unsightly and not likely to be taken up by acrylics flexibilty/crack bridging abilities (i.e. narrower widths, where joints are relatively close). Acrylic has no ability that I know of to do this. Be very careful removing old lead based paints, especially if you have young ones around. Wear decent face masks, not those pissy paper ones that give piece of mind but little else. Bag and Dispose of coveralls after the job is done. Put down disposable drop clothes to collect any paint/paint particles as the lead will not break down in the soil. It's also great stuff for making pets seriously ill. Have fun. |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 487892 | 2006-10-03 18:39:00 | We tried the heat gun on the windows, worked well, finished with sanding. Primed first. It looks like Oak (several neighbours thought Oak too) except the grain is wrong, the grain is more like Pine. Which it also isn't. Not cedar or redwood. The wood is in excellent condition, it was just the rubbish paint job from last time - some windows have also been painted shut. We freed them and took them down to do it properly. |
pctek (84) | ||
| 487893 | 2006-10-03 22:43:00 | Now while you "timber people" are here - can I sneak in an allied question? Suggestions, please, for preserving very old & very cruddy window surrounds & sills in a pioneer cottage - but not an expensive restoration... The wood itself is "various" & was probably low-grade even when new more than 100 years ago. Freezing Central Otago winters & sizzling summers have removed almost all the paint. It is bleached grey. Indeed, it's so tinder-dry with such deep cracking that replacement would be the obvious choice if it was a newer building. But as its construction method is now part of history, that's not an option. No doubt expensive oils would work wonders. How about cheap ones? If I say "cooking oil" do you recoil in horror? |
Laura (43) | ||
| 487894 | 2006-10-03 23:00:00 | A match Insurance New house. |
Metla (12) | ||
| 487895 | 2006-10-04 00:22:00 | A match Insurance New house. Haha.. Luckily this one's not the actual residence (Cottage alongside) or I might be tempted. This one shows what resourceful gold miners could do before building suppliers existed... |
Laura (43) | ||
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