| Forum Home | ||||
| PC World Chat | ||||
| Thread ID: 72857 | 2006-09-28 09:09:00 | Best Self-Priming Exterior Acrylic? | pctek (84) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 487876 | 2006-09-28 21:32:00 | The main differience is the thickness of each coat when dried fully. You will find Dulux, Resene etc will be more durable because you will have more paint on your house when dried. The cheaper brands when dried will leave a thinner coat on the house, which means you are left with a less durable finish, or meaning a few extra coats are required cancelling out any cost saving. |
Rob99 (151) | ||
| 487877 | 2006-09-28 21:44:00 | Most exterior paints tend to be gloss, regardless of brand. Semi-gloss is also available in most brands, but not as popular. In terms of windows, it is absolutely essential that you prepare them properly. Buy a heat gun, and strip all the paint off them, sand smooth, and then prime/paint properly. |
somebody (208) | ||
| 487878 | 2006-09-28 22:32:00 | I agree with somebody - prepare windows, or any area for that matter, properly prior to painting. I am doing my windows at the moment and a painter friend advised using Resene paint. There are two, Resene Enamacryl (Gloss) or Lustacryl (Semi-Gloss) - waterbased enamels. These products perform like solventbased paints with the added benefits of non-yellowing, fast drying and low odour when compared to solventbased paint. I am using Lustacryl inside and out on my windows and I am very impressed with the finish provided. As for lasting qualities, well time will tell, but I hope I dont have to do them for another 10 years. Good preparation, good undercoat and two top coats is the answer. |
smithie 38 (6684) | ||
| 487879 | 2006-09-28 22:32:00 | Semi-gloss does need an occasional hose-down (but in Southland that's a natural event anyway?) to keep it clean, as compared to gloss. The painters (several, and all very experienced) that I consulted all had the same view that the semigloss tended to last longer in this area. One commented "the day they put the high gloss into paint was the day they stuffed it", (words paraphrased for a family forum). Also advised strongly against spraying, as unless followed with a brushing it tends to fall off after a few years. All I can say is that at 13 years all that was needed was a good brush down and a couple of more coats, but it would still have been OK for another year or two. No other surface prep was needed. So I was very happy with the choice made years ago. I used a hot air gun originally to take the (many layers of) paint back to bare (rimu) weatherboards. Now using it again on the country cottage, as past experience has shown it to be good. The cottage was painted with Resene gloss, which now needs attention after 10 years. Your main concern is that the temperature must be above 10°C for painting. That probably limits you to about 3 days in the year in Invertartica? |
godfather (25) | ||
| 487880 | 2006-09-29 00:47:00 | I would like to emphasise how effective a heat-gun can be to strip paint. I have used chemical strippers, sanding, and the heat-gun technique before, and I have to say that without a doubt, the heat-gun is the quickest, easiest, and (perceived to be) the safest. Chemical strippers get quite dodgy with fumes, sometimes need extra time to "dry out" of the timber, otherwise painting over the top will cause problems. Sanding takes forever, not to mention constantly clogging the sandpaper, and the dust which is generated. We used a cheap Black&Decker heat gun (I think about $60 or thereabouts), which would soften the paint within seconds, and could be scraped off very easily with a putty knife - taking off all layers of old paint. Then a light sanding afterwards does the trick. |
somebody (208) | ||
| 487881 | 2006-09-29 00:54:00 | haha funny, 3 days of the year....today is hot and sunny and the other day we had 27 degrees. In the shade. Anyway Solarguard has won due to being $128.70 for 10L as opposed to Timbacryl at $153. I'll go with semi-gloss Godfather. After all your house is gorgeous. I'll come back in 10 years and let you know how its lasted. I have a heatgun, works well on some paints and not others. Its very good on stuff that wasn't painted on properly in the first place and paint thats been put over varnish. Its hopeless on the rest. We also have a belt sander which is excellent on large flat bits. The rest is being done with hands and small pieces of sandpaper, and yes we are sanding the windows back. Just not all of the weatherboards. |
pctek (84) | ||
| 487882 | 2006-09-29 02:52:00 | Some advice re stripping the paint. A Warehouse 115mm angle grinder and paint stripping disks ($16.90 for 2 disks) makes an amazing job, but not on lead based paint (dust...). The old lead based paint comes off well with a heat gun, but the fumes....? |
godfather (25) | ||
| 487883 | 2006-09-29 05:37:00 | I did a full strip back and primed with a oil based paint for better keying to the substrate. Then I finish coated with British Paints acrylic in a "darker than ivory" colour. That was still going strong after 12 years, even of the northern side of the house when Mrs T decided a change of colour was needed. She wanted a white house again! I tried Wattle Solaguard and it was like painting with milk, it gave no coverage and was going to need 3 coats at least so I sent it back and got Resene instead. That is now a few years down the track and still looking good. I'd be reluctant to put primerless paint onto bare wood, I just don't think the compromise is worth the risk. If the coating fails, you have a huge job ahead to strip it back before you can start again. Never buy paint on price alone. Cheers Billy 8-{) Edit: Neighbours across the road have just painted their entire house in 2 coats of black acrylic with minimal prep. I'll bet the northern and north-western walls will need a repaint inside of 5 years! That's if the weatherboards don't warp right off the walls before then. |
Billy T (70) | ||
| 487884 | 2006-09-29 08:20:00 | Godfather - Does the angle grinder and the paint stripping disks do a better and faster job than an orbital sander? Also can the angle grinder "dig in" and cause gouge marks on the weatherboard if not held correctly. | smithie 38 (6684) | ||
| 487885 | 2006-09-29 13:52:00 | The painters (several, and all very experienced) that I consulted all had the same view that the semigloss tended to last longer in this area. One commented "the day they put the high gloss into paint was the day they stuffed it", (words paraphrased for a family forum). Also advised strongly against spraying, as unless followed with a brushing it tends to fall off after a few years. Your main concern is that the temperature must be above 10°C for painting. That probably limits you to about 3 days in the year in Invertartica? I find the above in bold amusing because most of the finishing paints 30 > 40 years ago after lead based were all Gloss. When it comes to temperature Resene have a waterbased paint out that you can go down to 5°C but remember that that is for the drying time as well. The drying time thing applies to most waterbased paints. I am a great fan of Thunder Gloss for the walls and Resene APU and Enamacryl for the windows and doors. Using Enamacryl as against oiled based paints the doors and windows don't stick as much. When using Enamacryl the use of some hot weather thinners can often give a better flow to the paint. |
mikebartnz (21) | ||
| 1 2 3 4 | |||||