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| Thread ID: 74898 | 2006-12-09 08:29:00 | OT, Damn Dirty Washing Machine Pumps | bob_doe_nz (92) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 505476 | 2006-12-10 19:14:00 | Nope..won't work! In the part about it replacing the hot with cold..that part's ok... BUT you need cold water that would normally be turned on by the cold water solenoid from command of the control panel to rinse with cold. Since there's no cold water solenoid when you make that change, the machine will just wait until the tub gets cold water in it...in this case..forever.I think you misunderstood me Joe. I'm suggesting that the wires supplying hot and cold control at the solenoids be swapped, and the incoming hoses as well. The will have the machine excepting cold water via the still functional ex-hot solenoid, and excepting hot via the suspect ex-cold solenoid. My concept is to have the working component doing the needed job, and the suspect component doing the frivolous one. Better still.. get a new part, and have everything doing what it was designed to do :D |
personthingy (1670) | ||
| 505477 | 2006-12-10 19:19:00 | They just don't make products like they used to do they... No they don't. 6 years ago when I worked at F^P the engineers complained a lot to me that management would consider their recommendations for certain parts then decide on the cheapest....not what they had said. This was because of all the cheap imports from Korea and other places. |
pctek (84) | ||
| 505478 | 2006-12-10 19:22:00 | No they don't...............This was because of all the cheap imports from Korea and other places.Ye gets what yer pay for, and people seem to like spending no more than a few hundy on a washing machine :( | personthingy (1670) | ||
| 505479 | 2006-12-10 21:17:00 | Well, mummy dearest obviously does not trust me at all and sent in a service repairman. Cold water valve, reed switch (which was a problem I didn't bother to mention but we knew needed replacing) and one other part got replaced. All up, almost the cost of a new machine. :xmouth: Well I didn't have to pay it so I'm not worried. ;) As an added bonus, I got the chance to clean the drum of all that soap scum accumulated over the years with a water blaster. Lots of fun that. |
bob_doe_nz (92) | ||
| 505480 | 2008-05-03 11:51:00 | Ok guys... I'm having a similar issue, except neither solenoid seems to work (i.e. cold/warm/hot settings doesn't make a difference). The machine is a very similar model to bob_doe_nz's. The washing machine seems to "start", but no water gets dispensed, and thus it doesn't do anything (motors don't spin - only sign of life is the LEDs on the front panel). I have taken a multimeter to the leads going to each solenoid, and it is reading 0V regardless of what the washing machine is supposed to be doing. If I take the connectors off the solenoid, and put the multimeter across those leads directly (rather than being left connected to the solenoid), it reads around 15v. Any ideas on what I can try next, without electrocuting myself? It seems to me like the electronics might be dead. |
somebody (208) | ||
| 505481 | 2008-05-03 12:36:00 | It could be a faulty switch that is actuated by the loading door. I had to get one replaced recently. When you open it everything stops so it may not be switching on with the lid closed. |
Safari (3993) | ||
| 505482 | 2008-05-03 14:01:00 | Ok guys... I'm having a similar issue, except neither solenoid seems to work (i.e. cold/warm/hot settings doesn't make a difference). The machine is a very similar model to bob_doe_nz's. The washing machine seems to "start", but no water gets dispensed, and thus it doesn't do anything (motors don't spin - only sign of life is the LEDs on the front panel). I have taken a multimeter to the leads going to each solenoid, and it is reading 0V regardless of what the washing machine is supposed to be doing. If I take the connectors off the solenoid, and put the multimeter across those leads directly (rather than being left connected to the solenoid), it reads around 15v. Any ideas on what I can try next, without electrocuting myself? It seems to me like the electronics might be dead. Check the solenoid coils have continuity (check across disconnected solenoid terminals with the ohms range). I would think the voltage at the solenoids should be 230v AC, switched by relays from the control board, I would point the finger at the electronics as it seems to be a common problem with your older F & Ps. (Seems to be $300 odd to fix). |
feersumendjinn (64) | ||
| 505483 | 2008-05-03 15:28:00 | Ok guys... I'm having a similar issue, except neither solenoid seems to work (i.e. cold/warm/hot settings doesn't make a difference). The machine is a very similar model to bob_doe_nz's. The washing machine seems to "start", but no water gets dispensed, and thus it doesn't do anything (motors don't spin - only sign of life is the LEDs on the front panel). I have taken a multimeter to the leads going to each solenoid, and it is reading 0V regardless of what the washing machine is supposed to be doing. If I take the connectors off the solenoid, and put the multimeter across those leads directly (rather than being left connected to the solenoid), it reads around 15v. Any ideas on what I can try next, without electrocuting myself? It seems to me like the electronics might be dead. sounds more like either the coils have gone short and/or the driver mosfet/relay/transistor has turned into a resistor or burnt out. most probably the coil has shorted turns/dead short. stick the multimeter on ohms range, it'll probably be a few hundred to a few thousand ohms if its zero ohms (dead short) look at replacing the solenoids and whatever drives/supplies the solenoids as the short ill have buggered it up |
williamF (115) | ||
| 505484 | 2008-05-03 18:11:00 | It could be a faulty switch that is actuated by the loading door . I had to get one replaced recently . When you open it everything stops so it may not be switching on with the lid closed . I think not . . . you can still add laundry whilst the machine is filling up with water, and add soap and whatever too . . but that is all before the drum or agitator starts to move . The safety on the door is to prevent you from becoming "engaged" with/to the moving parts, and water is not that hazardous, so you can have the door open while it is filling . I go for the bad control panel thought . It's not sending a command . . ergo it's not the safety switch I believe . |
SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
| 505485 | 2008-05-03 21:26:00 | I think not . . . you can still add laundry whilst the machine is filling up with water, and add soap and whatever too . . but that is all before the drum or agitator starts to move . The safety on the door is to prevent you from becoming "engaged" with/to the moving parts, and water is not that hazardous, so you can have the door open while it is filling . I go for the bad control panel thought . It's not sending a command . . ergo it's not the safety switch I believe . Cheers guys . This washing machine doesn't seem to have a "safety" switch, as I have opened the lid while it is in the spin cycle before and it hasn't stopped . Likewise, it will start with the lid open as well . I will have a dig around though, just in case . The solenoids have stickers on them saying they're 12V DC, however I think that's the least of my worries at the moment . If I "advance" the wash through to say the spin cycle, it should start regardless of whether there's water coming in . That doesn't happen - it just sits there doing nothing . |
somebody (208) | ||
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