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Thread ID: 74898	2006-12-09 08:29:00	OT, Damn Dirty Washing Machine Pumps	bob_doe_nz (92)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
505466	2006-12-09 22:09:00	5 Cents says they charge an exhorbant price for this part, or say warranty is void because I'm not an authorised service repair person.Warranty? 5 cents says they will want less than $100 for the part, and they wont care about the warranty, after all if you pay for the part and do it yourself you obviously don't care about the warranty either!	personthingy (1670)
505467	2006-12-09 22:12:00	5 Cents says they charge an exhorbant price for this part, or say warranty is void because I'm not an authorised service repair person. Not true. There are many places that sell F&P spares. I purchased a new valve myself recently and fitted it. Not sure of the price now but it was quite reasonable. I got mine from Egley Electrical http://www.egleys.co.nz/ I don't think they are in Auckland but there will be similar places there who stock the parts. The price was $45	Safari (3993)
505468	2006-12-10 01:59:00	Of course the solenoid valves aren't working: they're not connected. They're worked by electricity and should have wires going to them. :D If it's open circuited coils, you might be able to get just the coils ... they are easily replaced. Perhaps a washing machine service company would give you some old valves which might have good coils. But certainly look at the filters first. It could easily be an idiot thing like that.	Graham L (2)
505469	2006-12-10 02:34:00	There is always the local Launderette !! PJ	Poppa John (284)
505470	2006-12-10 08:40:00	Use vinegar (acidic acid) to dissolve calcium and mineral deposits...just don't soak the solenoids. Since you have dual solenoids, then the machine receives hot water from an outside source...the machine does not heat it itself. Try this site to ID what you need...I suppose that NZ and US washing machine solenoids are pretty much the same. Voltages may or may not be the same. I think you mean acetic acid in vinegar? All acids happen to be acidic as apposed to caustic.	Sweep (90)
505471	2006-12-10 10:26:00	Hmm, things did not go as planned... :Xmouth: I took out the part and carefully removed the filter bit, dipped it in vinegar for a few seconds and then rinsed thoroughly. Poured a little vinegar into the tank itself, Rinsed about 6 times, dried outside and replaced back into machine. The problem still remains. Hot water tap WAS fine. So we ended up doing the washing by filling the tub with the garden hose. Problem is... Now the machine will not spin properly. (In a Yoda voice) Agitate it does, drain water it does too. Spin rapidly it does not. :illogical Spin slowly it will.:stare: They just don't make products like they used to do they...	bob_doe_nz (92)
505472	2006-12-10 17:02:00	Now I suspect the programmer switch...had one die here a year or so ago...but it controls all the events as they come into sequence for the various cycles. Missing a cycle or two is usually a bad/good thing...at least it makes it easier to diagnose. I wouldn't try to wire around the timer..there are a lot of wires and they don't make a lot of sense to even the people who are supposed to be professional about such things...it's just a policy to swap parts until the acciddently fix things these days. The transmission is not suspect as it has a few of the opertions still working...and the motor's good too or nothing would move at all. Most newer units have one or no belts...some are direct-driven from the motor...so you can see that's not the problem. <edit> Gads..just looked at your machine in PDF and it's got one of those membrane type bubble switches...sorry...it's probably very expensive and nasty. Maybe you can open this page : www.stokes-aus.com.au %20608%20708.pdf Here's a diagnostic aid for you: Phase 1 + 2 machines Models: GW500, 600, 700. MW050, 060, 650, 070. GW501, 601, 701. MW 051, 061, 071, LW015. Hold "Wash Temp Down", then press "Power". Wait for the two short "beeps", then press "Advance" once only. Toggle the "Spin" buttons until "Hold" and "Slow Spin" lamps are lit. If there is a fault, it will now be displayed on the wash lamps across the top of the control panel. Phase 3, 4, 5, 6 +7 machines Models: GW503, 603, 703. MW053. LW035. GW508, 608, 708. MW058. LW085. GW509, 609, 709. MW059. LW095. AW095. GW511, 611, 711. MW511. GW512, 612, 712. MW512. Proceed as per phase 1 + 2 machines, after the two beeps, do not press "Advance" - proceed to the "Spin" buttons. To read any code displayed, start at the right and note which lamps are lit. It's a binary code; ie : 1+2+4+8+16+32+64+132. Add up the ones which are lit to give the last fault code. Note: There are several models where the lamp representing 132 does not have an opening in the control panel. However, it is fitted and can be seen through the control panel if you look closely. IW Models Press and hold "Specials/Life Cycles" button, then press "Power". Wait for two "beeps" and release the buttons. Press "Specials/Life Cycles" again to bring up the status display. Using the buttons to the right of the display screen, you can change the display to show warning, status and last fault.	SurferJoe46 (51)
505473	2006-12-10 17:20:00	I got a phone number for you to use when you get the fault codes written down. I did this from my home in Southern California, USA...so I hope you know the area codes: 01392 469702 :D They say they are Australasian, and have parts and engineeers (we call them technicians, the word "parts" translates freely) if you need extra help.	SurferJoe46 (51)
505474	2006-12-10 18:51:00	Do you actually use hot water in the machine? If not, then i reinforce the suggestion that you swap the wires and hoses round so the solenoid currently controlling hot does cold instead . You should have no problem with supply of water to the washing . As for the no-spinning . . . . . . Tricky . All though generally that points at the pump not having done it's job, and therefore there's too much water so the machine refuses to do the fast spin . Either that or you disturbed the water level checker thing, which is often little more than a thin plastic pipe going of to a device with a diaphragm and a switch . If the machine thinks it's got water in it still, it won't spin .	personthingy (1670)
505475	2006-12-10 19:03:00	....then i reinforce the suggestion that you swap the wires and hoses round so the solenoid currently controlling hot does cold instead. You should have no problem with supply of water to the washing. Nope..won't work! In the part about it replacing the hot with cold..that part's ok... BUT you need cold water that would normally be turned on by the cold water solenoid from command of the control panel to rinse with cold. Since there's no cold water solenoid when you make that change, the machine will just wait until the tub gets cold water in it...in this case..forever.	SurferJoe46 (51)
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