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| Thread ID: 76379 | 2007-01-30 13:02:00 | Whitewash - For walls, not IT businesses | Laura (43) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 520759 | 2007-01-31 19:28:00 | "comes off on your clothes": think of the white lines on a dirt tennis court, they are made with some form of lime and water. | zqwerty (97) | ||
| 520760 | 2007-02-01 00:22:00 | Try the PM's Office. The stuff they use on naughty cabinet members seems to give good, if patchy, coverage. But it's expensive. | Graham L (2) | ||
| 520761 | 2007-02-01 01:36:00 | "comes off on your clothes": think of the white lines on a dirt tennis court, they are made with some form of lime and water. Ah, the things we non-sporty types learn here... And as for Graham's recommendation - No, I definitely can't afford that kind. |
Laura (43) | ||
| 520762 | 2007-02-01 05:15:00 | I was at a Guthrie Bowren store the other day and saw 4 litres of cheap white paint "For Sheds" at only $20. Thats got to be close to whitewash. | Strommer (42) | ||
| 520763 | 2007-02-01 05:46:00 | I was at a Guthrie Bowren store the other day and saw 4 litres of cheap white paint "For Sheds" at only $20. Thats got to be close to whitewash. Maybe you didn't real all of the thread, Steve? "Cheap white paint" for a historic cottage could be like putting a hard drive I knocked up in the backyard into your computer. Something well-built by craftsmen more than 120 years ago deserves the most suitable - not just the cheapest. |
Laura (43) | ||
| 520764 | 2007-02-01 07:01:00 | If you're taking it seriously maybe one of these Vols is what you need. www.historic.org.nz Have you tried asking Resene? At the moment the shops are full of Uni students saving beer money. www.resene.co.nz |
PaulD (232) | ||
| 520765 | 2007-02-01 07:45:00 | Paul, you're a gem for providing that good stuff. . Actually, I explored the Historic Places Trust website yesterday - once things started looking more complex than I'd foreseen. I emailed, assuming it might take days for an answer, but got a lengthy reply early this eveining. It will take some digesting, but I'm impressed at first glance. The main point I've register from all this is - don't crash in immediately, no matter whether the volunteer offer may expire. There are heaps of options to explore slowly - albeit at a monetary cost. I'll keep you posted. |
Laura (43) | ||
| 520766 | 2007-02-01 09:58:00 | If you're taking it seriously maybe one of these Vols is what you need. www.historic.org.nz Have you tried asking Resene? At the moment the shops are full of Uni students saving beer money. www.resene.co.nz I love how on the Renene form page it says "If you have not received a reply from us within 5 working days please email us again as the original may have become lost in cyberspace. Thank you." When you email some companies, you never hear anything back from them. When I was speaking to one business about this,and they said they only reply to people who re-remail them, as it shows that they are serious, rather than people who are just tyre kickers. |
rogerp (6864) | ||
| 520767 | 2007-02-01 21:23:00 | Laura, you appear to have the right approach, be careful of what you do,. Some info you need find out, armed with that, you can then ask the experts what the best product/approach is: What type of stone is it, schist? What type of plaster is on the interior, lime and sand rather than sand and cement (lime and sand is much softer, more friable and is the more likely plaster type if it is original)? Is the exterior bare stone or is it plastered too (if so with what)? Any leaks, damp patches, efflorescence, mould/discolouration? What is the overall condition of the substrate (plaster and stonework, plus any timber)? Some thoughts: If you have leaks or moisture entering the stonework and/or plaster, you'll have to deal with that first, on the exterior side. A water repellent rather than a water proofer is required. Be aware that some products (masonry water repellents) alter the tone and colour of the base material - Equus have a product that has been used on Oamaru stone that does not appreciably alter the appearance, not doubt Resene, etc, have similar. Ask for samples, test on a unobtrusive area prior to commencing, including any mortar or plaster (allow to cure fully. If it turns green or bright yellow, reject product ;) ). There are many mineral based products out there that may be suitable, seek advice from the manufacturer (for e.g. email/ph Resene, get their local architectural/technical rep to inspect the building). You do not want adverse chemical reactions between any coating and the existing materials. At a guess, you'll want to use a (mineral) product that forms a vapour barrier, not a waterproofer, not a paint, nor a high built elastomeric emulsion. It'll take some elbow grease or very gentle and skilful waterblasting to remove previous coatings (if not stable or compatible with the intended product), dirt, mould, laitence, efflorescence, etc. I'm surprised Historic Places don't have more free advice. How about contacting local historic societies and enthusiasts. Pick the brains of local architects and contractors who have been involved in restoration work. Good luck. |
Murray P (44) | ||
| 520768 | 2007-02-02 05:51:00 | That's what I call Learning from The Maestro... Yes, I will be careful, Murray. And I do see now that this job must be postponed until I can visit to make a personal inspection myself - even if it may mean losing my volunteer worker. Otherwise I can't complain if the end result is unsatisfactory. Lots to digest & check out before dipping a brush into anything, I see... I'll report back after I'm next in Central Otago. |
Laura (43) | ||
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