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Thread ID: 80620	2007-06-29 12:37:00	Paint oxidation	george12 (7)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
564404	2007-07-02 03:55:00	www.trademe.co.nz looks ok www.trademe.co.nz looks better be sure to view before you bid, and bring a mechanic friend if you don't know much yourself	motorbyclist (188)
564405	2007-07-02 05:53:00	It seems a little cheap for me. I'm worried when cars don't cost enough. Would you take $4000 for it? Is that Kiwi-Koins or real money? :lol:	SurferJoe46 (51)
564406	2007-07-02 06:06:00	Is that Kiwi-Koins or real money? :lol:Monopoly money :p	Myth (110)
564407	2007-07-03 06:32:00	be sure to view before you bid, and bring a mechanic friend if you don't know much yourself It is too late, he has already brought the Honda Accord :rolleyes: Have you even checked the history of the vehicle? failed WOFs? accidents? etc etc etc?	The_End_Of_Reality (334)
564408	2007-07-03 09:21:00	It is too late, he has already brought the Honda Accord :rolleyes: Have you even checked the history of the vehicle? failed WOFs? accidents? etc etc etc? I accepted the offer with the intention that if I didn't like the car, I'd walk away. Worst case scenario is one bad feedback. I have the car now, having just come back from Hamilton today. I looked over the service history and it looks fine. No WOFs have failed for anything serious that I could see. I am happy with the car. It's very nice to drive, AMI was happy to insure it after I gave them another call ($19.85/month), so I think I did well. The car that motorbcyclist said looks 'better' is the one I would have got, had I not requested more photos and found rust along the windscreen - not stuctural yet, but I bet it will spread. The only thing that annoys me is the pretty crappy fuel economy of it. I expected around 12-13km per litre on the open road and it's more like 10. This is with me deliberately driving as economically as possible. It will be interesting to see how it does in town. My Civic did 14km/L on the same road, at the same time. I guess a big car with good gas milage somewhat defies the laws of physics.	george12 (7)
564409	2007-07-03 09:38:00	OK, and what were the causes of the WOF failures? Well yes, a bigger car with a bigger engine will use more fuel, also an engine in need of a tune up will use more fuel. It is good that you are happy with it :)	The_End_Of_Reality (334)
564410	2007-07-03 09:42:00	OK, and what were the causes of the WOF failures? Well yes, a bigger car with a bigger engine will use more fuel, also an engine in need of a tune up will use more fuel. It is good that you are happy with it :) Just things like wiper blades, tyres, etc. I will look into the tuneup when I get the cambelt done. Thanks, it should be a great car. Now I can fit a whole Turners load of computers in :D	george12 (7)
564411	2007-07-03 11:44:00	The car that motorbcyclist said looks 'better' is the one I would have got, had I not requested more photos and found rust along the windscreen - not stuctural yet, but I bet it will spread. good call	motorbyclist (188)
564412	2007-07-03 17:16:00	Tune-ups do not usually equate to fuel mileage . . . they are just maintenance at this late date . If you have a problem that is out of the normal design criteria from the manufacturer, then that little CES light will be on reminding you to "Check Engine", which we all know upon opening the hood, is actually there as it should be . . . . so that means very little to the average driver . It has nothing to do with vital fluids; it is a computer fault that it is seeing . Some electronic control and sensor devices do not report a problem if they aren't out of range of normal operation . If you have a couple of them on the ragged edge however, they can add up to a loss of performance and mileage per gallon . I suggest a good bi-directional scan with a real scanner (Snap-On comes to mind) to see what the various devices actually report as normal to the ECU . If the barometric pressure device (BARO) is off a little and you have a lazy oxygen sensor (OS or HOS2) that isn't switching fast enough, lazy or is stuck in the middle of it's output, then indeed you can have some abnormal fuel mileage and may not have a CEL lit up . You MAY have pre-and post-cat sensors . . so be aware that there are more than one or two of them on some models . On a DVM you should see rapid switching of the oxygen sensor from . 900vdc high to . 100vdc low or so, with much of the time spent in the . 500vdc range where it will be if everything's being controlled correctly . Those values are optimum with a fresh sensor and may not be what you actually see . DO NOT TEST WITH AN ANALOG METER! Heated sensors have three or four wires, non-heated have just two . If you need help, the wire colors are usually a pair of the same in white or black, a green or blue and a third color that may be yellow, red or black . The paired colors are the sensor, the others are usually the heater B+ voltage and the ground B- for the heater . A scanner will see the events as "Center" voltage reports in swings of as much as 10 times per second as they generate voltages above and below the center ( . 500vdc) values . The ECM computer tries to keep the oxygen sensor in the center voltage all the time by modifying the timing, fuel injection commencement and duration and trail-off . Another consideration is the Cam Position Sensor (CMP) . . and it is a real high profile part for going bad all the time . . is also VERY EXPENSIVE as you have to replaced the whole distributer to make it right . There are people who say they have successfully replaced the CMP in the distributer, but so far after 61+ years I haven't seen anyone do a decent job on that part . If there's ANY oil under the distributor (provided NZ models have one) then you also need to replace the whole distributer . Distributors are very easy to change as they only fit in one way and they can be timed with a common timing light to the flywheel through the access port in the bell housing from above the vehicle . There are two colored marks . . a white one and a yellow one . The white one is the correct one . Tune-ups are not for economy any more . Suggested: Change the t-belt Replace the plugs with NGK's as they are original equipment, original design Replace the fuel filter Service the transmission if it's an automatic; flush if manual (Try to get Japanese fluids if they are available!) Check the suspension and replace the struts if they still have the originals Change the oil and filter: Castrol GTX is the best if NZ hasn't also destroyed it in the name of ecology like the US . Drain and refill the cooling system with 50% coolant/water . Replace the thermostat for GP . NEVER allow the fuel level to get below ¼ full as then the fuel pump is above the fuel level and is getting hot and running dry . It needs fuel to lubricate and cool it . . . it's also VERY EXPENSIVE! That sounds strange that gasoline is a lubricant and a cooling fluid . . but it is . . trust me . Drive and enjoy your Honda . . they are faithful pups . . . . although missing a lot in the personality department, but they run and run and run . Drive hard and don't baby it . . . they like that!	SurferJoe46 (51)
564413	2007-07-04 02:53:00	NEVER allow the fuel level to get below ¼ full as then the fuel pump is above the fuel level and is getting hot and running dry. why do/did they put it so high up? and of course the best way to improve fuel economy is simply to get a smaller/more economical vehicle rather than a 20 year old 2L thing.... that and steer well clear of shell; gull and bp only in my opinion, caltex isn't too bad but shell and mobil in this country are the worst. honestly, those fuels foul a sparkplug in my dirtbike within 3 hours. BP 98 for me. also on my roadbikes i've noticed slight performance drops when using different fuels, bp 91 and gull 91 seemed to work best (too poor to buy that much 98) . i asked my uncle who used to race speedway bikes and restores classic cars for people (and owns/runs a panelbeating business) among other things and he confirmed my fuel supspicions (and explained oil grades, told me where/how to buy actual racing fuel as avgas has got oil in it to stop it freezing in planes which typically run around 3krpm when my bike hits 12 so to stay clear, and he can get me cheap penzoil at a high grade for my dirt bike :D)	motorbyclist (188)
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