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| Thread ID: 80862 | 2007-07-07 04:09:00 | Oven wiring | freebruisersmum (12522) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 566713 | 2007-07-07 04:09:00 | I have just bought a new oven. I have removed the cable from the old oven which has 4 wires, phase1, phase2, neutral and earth. The new oven only has 3 connections, Live, neutral and earth. How do I attach the cable? I'm assuming both phase wires carry 120V each, is it safe to wire both phase1 and phase2 to the single Live connection? |
freebruisersmum (12522) | ||
| 566714 | 2007-07-07 04:23:00 | Ring an electrician. | Speedy Gonzales (78) | ||
| 566715 | 2007-07-07 04:33:00 | I have just bought a new oven. I have removed the cable from the old oven which has 4 wires, phase1, phase2, neutral and earth. The new oven only has 3 connections, Live, neutral and earth. How do I attach the cable? I'm assuming both phase wires carry 120V each, is it safe to wire both phase1 and phase2 to the single Live connection? N O ! ! ! If you insist on trying you will need an ambulance and fire engine before any tools are involved. |
R2x1 (4628) | ||
| 566716 | 2007-07-07 04:40:00 | How do I attach the cable? DON'T TOUCH IT ! ! ! Call an electrician like the others have said. |
FoxyMX (5) | ||
| 566717 | 2007-07-07 04:46:00 | if any person who is not a registered electrician wires it and they get it wrong and your house burns down or something you wont get any insurance at all.... | drcspy (146) | ||
| 566718 | 2007-07-07 04:53:00 | Your old oven was a split phase/two phase unit. The new one is a single phase unit. Incompatible, needs a wiring change at the switchboard end, possiblly new wiring to the oven. If you persist, be prepared for very loud explosions and smoke or fire, in the event you actually have a split phase supply. Highly dangerous. The 120v suggests that you may be in the US? NZ uses 230v, but ovens are often wired two phase here. |
godfather (25) | ||
| 566719 | 2007-07-07 05:31:00 | In NZ it would be unusual to have 2 phase power in a house. However if you are capable of testing it then you are capable of connecting it. If not, call an electrician. You'd need to check to see if in fact both phases do have power. Then you'd insulate one and hook the other up. Or maybe one has not got power to it. |
pctek (84) | ||
| 566720 | 2007-07-07 06:29:00 | In NZ it would be unusual to have 2 phase power in a house. However if you are capable of testing it then you are capable of connecting it. If not, call an electrician. You'd need to check to see if in fact both phases do have power. Then you'd insulate one and hook the other up. Or maybe one has not got power to it. Actually it's not that rare in several network areas in NZ. Most (if not all) 230v single phase transformers installed in the last 20 years are actually split phase capable, many networks insist that you use the split phase (460v between phases!) Most ovens were wired to accept that (or 2 phases of a real 3 phase supply), some were wired as a two phase supply but simply had two separate fuses or circuit breakers on the main switchboard, connected to the one phase supply. My cottage (built about 1950) was wired for two phase for the oven, it was the most common way to do it even back then. If that was a US poster with 120v, it would be needed (even as two separate single phase) due to the much higher current in 120v. They even used to make special cable for it, with a heavier Neutral. Often the oven loading is too much just for one of the phase conductors and fuse. |
godfather (25) | ||
| 566721 | 2007-07-07 06:48:00 | OK . . US codes here . . . The white and the green (or bare) are all considered ground . . . it's just a newer way of doing things . The two legs that ARE not white or green or bare are the 120v legs each . . they are not different phases . . you don't get 3 phase in residential wiring . In the old days, they kept the grounds and the common wires separate, but any more they just couple them together and call it good . This is for the newer designs going to Delta verses Star wiring from the poles . . but that's a little technical for a do-it-yourselfer . Here's the set-up Green is ALWAYS GROUND AND MUST NOT BE SPLICED OR UNATTACHED . White is always COMMON, and can be assumed as the same as ground in the distribution panel . Black = one of the 120v legs, typically called "A" BARE is usually just a safety wire to carry off any transient shorts to a GFCI which should be in the form of a breaker on that circuit to afford complete ground integrity . The BARE wire can be included in the sheath of Romex or inside a conduit if the electrician doesn't trust the EMT connex and wants to insure ground/drain protection to the circuit . BX is a grounded connection in and of itself . This is the flexible metal material that looks like coiled flat wire that the wires run through . Red or Blue are one of the other legs of the 220 split, or just 120v, and is commonly called "B" If you attach the BLACK to either the RED or BLUE, you'll have a direct short to the pole drop and likely blow a pole fuse and make Edison very unhappy . Your neighbors will also dislike you for knocking them down too . . . REMF is nasty and it'll likely take some of the other people on the same transformer down too . As strange as it may seem, you only need the two colored legs to achieve 240 v, even without a ground or common wire . It's not dangerous unless you have a case-grounded device on that line and then the case might have 120v just looking for someplace to go to cause trouble . . and that might be you . PHASED electricity (3-Phase) is usually 480 volts . . . and YOU DO NOT WANT TO MESS WITH THAT AT ALL! Any ONE of the three (3) legs is grounded 50% of the time, and the switching is so fast, you are usually dead if you touch any one of them . . . you don't need to get between two wires . . you just have to touch one of them to die . It sucks you in, not like 120 v which will push you away . 480 volt stuff likes to work, and if it's not busy, it can reach out and kick you badly! It is so extremely dangerous it is not likely to exist except on a pole that you are not allowed access to . AND . . . here's a good rule: Never assume that the WHITE wire is truly neutral or grounded . A lot of electricians get their butts fried that way . WHITE can be used as a hot leg if it is marked as such with a taped-on or heatshrunk-on sleeve that marks it as hot . This mark is USUALLY at the end near the bare connection . . . but never assume . Get a "WIGGY®" to test all circuits to make sure . . . if you don't know what a WIGGY is . . THEN GET PROFESSIONAL HELP . Post if you have more questions . . but I will be out tomorrow morning for a while running some new wiring in a commercial building myself . . so I might not be able to respond quickly . Remember: Electricity is your FRIEND, but treat it like a drunken brother-in-law! |
SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
| 566722 | 2007-07-08 03:23:00 | A firend bought a new stove a few years ago . It had two phase connections, with a link between them for single phase use . He removed the link while installing it and wondered why only half of the stove worked . So the answer to the original poster is that the phase connection is fed from one of the incoming phase wires . However, you must be sure that the cable from the switchboard is rated for the higher (potentially double) current it will be carrying . The fuse or circuit breaker should be rated to protect the cable, so it's safe enough . You might just pop a breaker or blow a fuse if you get too enthusiastic in your cooking . Don't increase the fuse or breaker size . Don't connect both phases together . If in doubt, get a sparky to install a heavy cable . |
Graham L (2) | ||
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