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| Thread ID: 81614 | 2007-08-01 23:13:00 | Our house is falling apart! | Greg (193) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 575327 | 2007-08-02 13:21:00 | Greg, re leak. Use Silastic Marine sealer. Have used this over the past fifteen years on antenna mounts on roofs. 100% seal in each case. Just clean surrounding area with white spirit & follow instructions. Problem solved !! | BobM (1138) | ||
| 575328 | 2007-08-02 13:37:00 | I would seal it for now, but then send a pic to Sky with a polite request that they send a tradesman to replace the tile at Sky's expense. As per Rob99 above. It matters not if it was like it or not when you bought it, but since you had an inspection you are entitled to the belief it was exacerbated by the later Sky visit. |
godfather (25) | ||
| 575329 | 2007-08-02 14:03:00 | Thankyou folks for the recent comments and suggestions. I'll report back. BobM... by "white spirit" I assume you mean something like drycleaner fluid or turps? |
Greg (193) | ||
| 575330 | 2007-08-02 14:32:00 | Replace the tile. Shouldn't be too hard. Yea, i just had a series of cracked tiles, sealents are only prolonging it, not actually fixing it. |
rob_on_guitar (4196) | ||
| 575331 | 2007-08-02 18:56:00 | If there are soffit vents underside the eaves of the roof, they'd likely satisfy the ventilation of the sub-roof and keep moisture and condensation in check if not keep it from happening all together . We have a product called TYVEK ( . dupont . com/Tyvek/en_US/index . html" target="_blank">www2 . dupont . com) in the US that is used as a sub-roof ( . dupont . com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/products/residential/products/atticwrap . html" target="_blank">www2 . dupont . com) and a moisture barrier in walls in new construction . . . it is very good . . . but also needs some sort of peak vents or dead air area cross-ventilation . TYVEK ADVERT HERE: Channels moisture vapor Moisture vapor passes safely through DuPont™ Tyvek® AtticWrap™ , so vapor that enters the attic from the living space can diffuse through the breathable membrane into vented air channels to prevent the formation of damaging mold, mildew and wood rot in the attic . Acts as a secondary weather barrier DuPont™ Tyvek® AtticWrap™ collects leaking water and channels it to the eaves where it can safely drain outside the building . In severe weather areas where wind-driven rain can penetrate the attic through the soffits, DuPont™ Tyvek® AtticWrap™ blocks water infiltration into the building and allows it to drain safely outside the house . Basically if the tiles are gapped or not totally sealed, there is going to be admission of rain or snow under conditions that vary with the pitch, wind values and the general material used for the exterior surface of the roof . Lesser or lower pitches NEED better water incursion protection as the sheeting and drainage off a higher peaked roof will increase the velocity of the runoff and keep the time in contact with the roof from rain or snow to a minimum . Flatter or lower peaks require more security from better subroof materials, if not also better shingles/tiles or sheetgoods . Article 24 of the US Building codes indicate that you MUST have water incursion protection, and as there is condensate damage or moisture that collects in a building, it most likely will be coming from an outside source . BUT . . here's the big but here . . . humans also respire and give off large quantities of exhaled moisture too . . and that has to be removed from the building . Some homes with minimal heating and/or poor or insufficient insulation get locked down tighter and tighter by the occupants, exacerbating the moisture build-up until they have moisture running down the interior walls . Generally, it is advised to use a 2-5% admix heating/cooling system that allows some refreshment of the interior air (to combat "sick building syndrome) and keep moisture content to a regulated amount . Also, another problem arises here . If the walls/ceiling etc are so badly insulated, in cold weather the heat loss is of course higher in both directions and will show up as human exhaust condensing on the walls or under the roof/ceiling . That indicates a problem with the original construction and should be investigated . Of course, all this is US codes, and may not apply to NZ standards . . . but as a for-instance, they make pretty good sense . Common sense dictates that the laws of thermodynamics and moisture co-admissibility are prolly the same in your hemisphere . |
SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
| 575332 | 2007-08-03 09:03:00 | Thankyou folks for the recent comments and suggestions. I'll report back. BobM... by "white spirit" I assume you mean something like drycleaner fluid or turps? Yes, drycleaner fluid, much the same stuff. Don't use turps,petrol,kerosene - they leave a oily film, which you don't want. |
BobM (1138) | ||
| 575333 | 2007-08-04 05:59:00 | Just had a look at the photos. Not as bad as I expected. But I can understand your reluctance to strip everything and replace the tile. A skilled job really and the new tile may not match. I don't like sealants and reckon they are the primary reason for leaking houses. Nothing like a good (lead) damp proof course. I would be more inclined to tackle the job in several ways if failing to get Sky or the insurance company involved. Firstly forget sealants and use Araldite - I have 30 year old repairs still good today with Araldite. Then a tape over the repair and painted over - oil based varnish or similar - even RAW linseed oil. Tom |
Thomas01 (317) | ||
| 575334 | 2007-08-04 13:58:00 | Just had a look at the photos. Not as bad as I expected.It's bad enough. From inside the roof you can see daylight (www.imagef1.net.nz)! :eek: | Greg (193) | ||
| 575335 | 2007-08-04 15:29:00 | Wow . . no undersheeting at all! Not good . The ROSSCRETE ( . reroofing . co . nz/concrete_colours . htm" target="_blank">www . reroofing . co . nz) product is a local NZ company too . . they will likely have any amount that you need . . . maybe even a few "blems" or seconds for free . But I am still amazed that you can actually see the undersides of the tiles . That's gotta hurt your R-level for insulation, badly! We see their products here in the US all the time, and I have put a few courses up myself on a restoration . . but ALWAYS over roll-goods as a water barrier, (over open truss construction they need full ¾-inch sheeting of plywood or particle board to be installed legally here where the gaps are at/under 24 inches on centers) . If you actually had all the tiles removed, you should not be able to see daylight anywhere . :cool: That's just good construction . Great product though . . some last as long as 40 or 50 years and still look good . They are at: 7 The Furlong Takanini Auckland New Zealand Phone: PHONE: 64-9-299-9210 FAX: 64-9- 299-7810 |
SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
| 575336 | 2007-08-04 16:31:00 | But I am still amazed that you can actually see the undersides of the tiles. That's gotta hurt your R-level for insulation, badly!Not sure that it makes any difference here. The upperside of the ceiling is covered in a layer of batts, so there is insulation. The house is generally warm enough in mid-winter (like right now) with minimal heating, and the under-roof area is free of moisture, mould or mildew. | Greg (193) | ||
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