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| Thread ID: 98367 | 2009-03-22 07:12:00 | Capacitors & motherboards | Phil B (648) | Press F1 |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 758523 | 2009-03-22 09:23:00 | Would 2200uf be ok? That's 1000 more than original that should be fine, will it fit the space?? what voltage? |
robsonde (120) | ||
| 758524 | 2009-03-22 09:30:00 | Should fit just about. The 1200 is 10mm dia. Might stick up a bit, but I don't think that'll matter, nothing's that close on this board. Seems funny that you can stick a capacitor almost twice the size in. Can't do that with the old plugs & points cars, it'll pit the points straight away. |
Phil B (648) | ||
| 758525 | 2009-03-22 10:29:00 | If you know the type of MB, the forum at badcaps.com could help with OK substitutions. In some cases changing the capacitance will alter timings leading to oscillation. Changing voltage can affect the forming of the electrolytics, some say never let max voltage rating exceed 3 times working voltage. | PaulD (232) | ||
| 758526 | 2009-03-22 13:54:00 | Would 2200uf be ok? That's 1000 more than original Should not matter too much - electrolytic capacitors are pretty variable in their marked to actual values from -40% to + 100% for some. as long as you are only changing a few - things should be alright. If there are dozens to be changed, the power supply may grunt a bit on start up. |
R2x1 (4628) | ||
| 758527 | 2009-03-22 22:54:00 | The original capacitors failed because they were either rubbish quality or you were using a useless PSU (read: Hyena or anything that isn't Enermax etc) that killed them with high ripple etc. Overheating can definitely affect the issue (usually cheap crappy ones can't handle temperatures anywhere near what's printed on the label) Would be interesting to know what is actually on there at the moment. Most people say replace everything over 470uf but if the entire board is filled with junk like GSC then replacing everything is a very good idea. For replacements try to stick to the original specifications as closely as possible. I personally would NOT go 1000uf higher on all the caps. But read here: (www.badcaps.net) and make your own decisions. The higher quality caps you buy, the more likely they are closer in value to what they say they are. Voltage rating increase is OK (this is the maximum voltage the cap can handle) but too high is not good for the capacitor itself when running at a low voltage. The main problem with higher rated capacitors is that they may be physically too big to fit on the board. Don't increase the voltage just so the cap will last longer. What you really need to do to keep it lasting longer is to use a good quality one. As for ripple current rating, as far as I know higher is better so the capacitor can handle more. But coming out of your PSU you need less ripple so a high quality PSU with clean power output is required for a stable and long lasting PC Make sure they are LOW ESR types and of good quality unless you want the board to fail again in the same amount of time it already has. Panasonic/Nichicon from RS would be good. Rubycon even if you're feeling rich. Samxon from Jaycar (IF they still sell them) or somewhere else is also pretty good for cheaper. Places like Sicom and others sell cheaper brands (LH.Nova last I bought - for testing) and would likely be just as cheap as the ones you are replacing. You could go with solid caps but a good quality electrolytic will last long enough. As for the actual replacement, you will definitely need to know how to solder well. Single sided PCBs are much easier compared to multilayer motherboards. If you can already solder well then you should have no problem doing this yourself. Just read the instructions on badcaps.net and you will be fine. You may want to practice on something else first. If you are bad at soldering or have never done it before then don't try this (yet). It's not hard when done right but knowing how to do it right is the fun part. |
Agent_24 (57) | ||
| 758528 | 2009-03-23 09:14:00 | Soldering is not a problem. If I was feeling really clever I could always try TIG welding them in lol. Seriously, I went to the electronics man who fixes sony products & picked his brain. He told me that all electrolytic capacitors dry up with age. It depends on the quality as to how fast they do. I've only got 1 bulging cap, but there are 3 of the same value in the same area, which I presume are associated with each other somehow. I'm going to replace all 3 of them & take a punt on how long the rest will last. All the others have flat tops with no sign of leaking & the board's 7 & a bit years old, so not worth going mad with. It has no antique value. The power supply's a Hyena 400watt. It only drives 1 HD, a DVD rom, a gutless video card & a few PCI cards. I took the dismantled pc into work this morning to get the airline treatment. Now you can eat your dinner off it. I'll go to Jaycar & get some caps. The Sony man didn't have them. I presume after doing a bit of googling that 1200uf is a bit of an oddball. I'll just make sure that the ones I get are the same physical size so they fit the board. I'll get them in the next couple of days & let you know if it works :) Thanks for the replies |
Phil B (648) | ||
| 758529 | 2009-03-23 09:41:00 | Well I would get rid of the Hyena PSU for a start, it's a piece of rubbish. Same brand as Deer/Allied. Google/The people on this forum with a brain will confirm how bad they are. Sure they'll power a basic PC like yours without any fancy video card but open that PSU and I bet you'll find more busted caps. I would replace at least all the caps in the VRM circuits (these will be almost all the caps over 470uf) Since they're all the same age, probably the same brand and more or less in the same condition. For your 1200uf 10v these will do you nicely: newzealand.rs-online.com |
Agent_24 (57) | ||
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