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| Thread ID: 144210 | 2017-08-14 03:27:00 | car tyre recommendations ? | 1101 (13337) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 1438249 | 2017-08-15 04:45:00 | Hyperdrive: rather misleading . On the ph they said fitting is free. Yet putting in an order online there is a fitting etc charge, added AFTER you add to the cart. So not worth buying online to save $25 for a pair I tried it. Cheap tyres!! Selected my area, selected tyre place (happened to be the one I use anyway) and it added $16. Still works out cheap. Might do that next time I need some. |
pctek (84) | ||
| 1438250 | 2017-08-15 07:09:00 | I buy them second hand any make and tread type and fit them myself. The tire changer I got for free when my neigbour got out of stockcar racing. I dont get them balanced them unless I feel some vibration in the steering wheel. | prefect (6291) | ||
| 1438251 | 2017-08-15 07:31:00 | I know a few people that have had issues with different branches in the Wellington region My dad's used Firestone mainly but we have used Tony's Tyre Service before. When the family went, they were less honest with the prices. Wellington region. |
Nomad (952) | ||
| 1438252 | 2017-08-16 00:31:00 | ........The tire changer I got for free when my neigbour got out of stockcar racing....... You lucky bugger. I've been trying to get a cheap/not stuffed one for years haha. |
wratterus (105) | ||
| 1438253 | 2017-08-16 07:15:00 | There is less than a palm width per tyre as your only contact with the road, this small area of rubber will determine whether you skid or slide, and how well your car will handle and stop in an emergency, it is plainly dumb to go for the cheapest when it is your tyres that will stop you becoming a road accident statistic if an emergency occurs. When you are sliding towards a dry stone wall, running off the road on a corner or skidding into another vehicle you can reflect whether the cut price tyres you fitted to save a few dollars were indeed a bargain. When you fit substandard tyres or run worn unsafe tyres you are risking your own and others' safety. A good tyre with high wear life, better than average grip and a lower rolling resistance to save fuel is the Yokohama BluEarth- fitted a set to my car about 3 months ago - expect to get at least 45,000 km out of a set with rotation. Note running tyres soft will increase the wear on the edges, whilst over inflated will increase wear on the centre - One should check tyre pressure on cold tyres monthly. A small homily, that was on the wall of the student crew room at the RAF No1 Flying School when I was the Navigation Instructor there: " The graveyards are full of young men who believed in their own immortality " Accidents don't always happen to someone else, so why increase your chances of having an accident. |
KenESmith (6287) | ||
| 1438254 | 2017-08-16 08:57:00 | I buy them second hand any make and tread type and fit them myself. The tire changer I got for free when my neigbour got out of stockcar racing. I dont get them balanced them unless I feel some vibration in the steering wheel. Yeah I sometimes change tyres myself, if I'm feeling fit. But buy "mid" priced Tyre and on occasion good used tyres. Long as no sidewall bulge, and as Ken talks about above. Recently I repaired daughter's car puncture, and replaced a leaking valve on the spare. Pretty easy using cheap valve stem sets (using TR413's/14's) and puncture kit. I use my 3 ton jack (similar to this video (www.youtube.com)), wood blocks, ratchet tie downs, and Big rubber mallet. Full hands only manual video change (www.youtube.com)here. Done that a few times, mainly for trailers. Years ago Tyre sellers would offer you a retread or new Tyre - and similar prices. Then rave on about steel belted radials, the number of steel layers vs polyester, within a Tyre, and so on. But depends, how, what you drive, who you drive, and for how long to keep the car. I heard one Tyre seller told mate recently, if used for family car, they offer the best, as opposed to cheaper sets if car not used much or not kept long. |
kahawai chaser (3545) | ||
| 1438255 | 2017-08-16 10:27:00 | There is less than a palm width per tyre as your only contact with the road, this small area of rubber will determine whether you skid or slide, and how well your car will handle and stop in an emergency, it is plainly dumb to go for the cheapest when it is your tyres that will stop you becoming a road accident statistic if an emergency occurs.When you are sliding towards a dry stone wall, running off the road on a corner or skidding into another vehicle you can reflect whether the cut price tyres you fitted to save a few dollars were indeed a bargain. When you fit substandard tyres or run worn unsafe tyres you are risking your own and others' safety.A good tyre with high wear life, better than average grip and a lower rolling resistance to save fuel is the Yokohama BluEarth- fitted a set to my car about 3 months ago - expect to get at least 45,000 km out of a set with rotation. Note running tyres soft will increase the wear on the edges, whilst over inflated will increase wear on the centre - One should check tyre pressure on cold tyres monthly.A small homily, that was on the wall of the student crew room at the RAF No1 Flying School when I was the Navigation Instructor there: " The graveyards are full of young men who believed in their own immortality " Accidents don't always happen to someone else, so why increase your chances of having an accident.While I do agree with you, something I'm not entirely sure about is the long life tyres. Is that because is has more tread to start with or is a harder compound. If it's due to harder compound would this make it a less gripping tyre then one that is softer compound that wears faster? | plod (107) | ||
| 1438256 | 2017-08-16 23:11:00 | While I do agree with you, something I'm not entirely sure about is the long life tyres. Is that because is has more tread to start with or is a harder compound. If it's due to harder compound would this make it a less gripping tyre then one that is softer compound that wears faster? Correct Plod. A tyre is an "ablative shield" (look it up). If it is not wearing away then it is not working to give you the grip needed to stay on the road. Tyre manufacturers could make a tyre which would never wear out, but you would not be able to control your vehicle on it, and by the same token could make a tyre with a very soft high hysteresis rubber compound to give almost 100% wet traction. You would need to replace these every few days. So all tread compounds are a compromise. Sidewall rubber compounds are different, as the conditions they have to withstand are different, being mainly flexing, and weather and ultra-violet resistance. Never wash your tyres with detergents as this removes the waxes and oils incorporated in the rubber to provide these qualities. The radial tyre was a huge leap forward in tyre technology, and gave a vast increase in the mileage delivered by these tyres. The purpose of the belt, fabric but later made from steel, is to provide stiffness and rigidity to the tread area of the tyre. This prevents tread "squirm" and distortion which build up heat in the tyre and thus accelerates wear. It helps hold the tread sipes and channels open to allow removal of water from wet road surfaces thus preventing aquaplaning. Ken's comments about under and over inflation are right to a point, but apply more to the old cross-ply tyre than to modern steel-belted radials. With these it is the belt which holds the tread area flat on the road. In saloon car racing tyres are inflated to a much higher level than the recommended pressure for normal daily use, and get excellent grip. The reason for this is to minimise heat build up in the tyre which accelerates wear. Heat is the enemy of the pneumatic rubber tyre! This is why it is important to keep your tyres well inflated to the right pressure for your car, as heat arises from the flexing of the sidewalls, the abrasion of the tread, brake heat, misalignment of wheels, all of which will cause rapid tread wear if not minimised by correct pressure or adjustment. It is better to be slightly over-inflated than to be under-inflated, but your tyre must flex to the designed amount to work properly as the ablative shield I mentioned earlier. It is worth looking on YouTube or somewhere to see how a tyre is made. Every single one is hand built by the tyre builder, who must ensure the quality, alignment of belts, roundness of components, correct placement, build in splices which are undetectable to the final user, ensure correct balance both radially and from side to side. It is only perfect tyres which are allowed on the market, as any faulty tyres are scrapped, and of course manufacturers are anxious to keep these to a minimum. Tyre building is both art and science, and a good builder is valued highly. There are some parts in a tyre which can be left out to reduce cost and this is how cheap tyres are made, so the old adage that "You get what you pay for" is correct in this case. Beware, and know what you are buying. |
Richard (739) | ||
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