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Thread ID: 84524	2007-11-09 03:27:00	Dying leather	FoxyMX (5)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
609728	2007-11-09 03:27:00	I want to re-dye a tan leather handbag black. A bit of searching has found one or two places to get the products from but I'm just wondering whether anyone has tried re-dying leather at all? If so, what were the results like?	FoxyMX (5)
609729	2007-11-09 06:31:00	I used some shoe re-colouring product many years ago, just wipe on and and wait about 1/2 an hour, it really worked well (but very shiny indeed). Remembering the brand is not currently in my possibilities list ~ senile decay strikes again.	R2x1 (4628)
609730	2007-11-09 07:02:00	You can get it done professionally. I guess the shoe repair shops would offer this service. Mind you, if you do it yourself, the black should be easier unlike trying to dye something brown as the colour will be more tolerant for patchiness.	Jen (38)
609731	2007-11-09 09:09:00	Most leather is top coated rather than dyed. Probably a bit like changing your nail colour or getting a dent resprayed :D	PaulD (232)
609732	2007-11-09 19:54:00	A bit of useless knowledge for you . . . Q: What's the world's most popular use for leather? A: For covering cows! :D	Greg (193)
609733	2007-11-09 20:12:00	Most leather is top coated rather than dyed. Probably a bit like changing your nail colour or getting a dent resprayed :D Yes, I know. I need to be sure the dye doesn't rub off easily either, being as it is a handbag. :rolleyes:	FoxyMX (5)
609734	2007-11-09 20:19:00	Aw Greg, don't you start . . . I already have a couple of black leather jackets . For covering the cow :rolleyes: :p Jen: I've already had the local shoe repair shop decline to do the job so will have to hit the other side of town when I get time . R2x1: That's probably the stuff I am after, but I don't want shiny .	FoxyMX (5)
609735	2007-11-11 21:03:00	My dad does a lot of leather work . . . making saddles, boots etc . . and he says to clean the surface very well with oxalic acid/water mix first to keep blotches from happening . That will de-glaze the surface preparing it for absorption of the dye . You will likely have some human oil and maybe some perspiration on the surface that can cause the dye to "take" differently on areas . There are three main steps to any leather dying project . 1 . Preparing the Leather for Dying . Over time and the course of the life of the purse, you may have applied conditioners and protectors and no doubt dirt has accumulated on the surface of the leather . You must remove all this prior to any dye job . This will give you a clean surface and create the bight required for the dye to attach to the leather properly . 2 . Applying the Dye . After the leather has been cleaned and prepared as recommended above, you need to make sure you mix the dye well before use . Turning the bottle upside down and shaking . You may have to give it a little stir with a stick to loosen the pigment at the bottom of the bottle . You can apply with a cloth however a sponge brush works best . An alternate method for covering large areas evenly is to spray with a spray-gun or air brush . A second coat of dye may be applied if required . Do not use a wool dauber or shearling, (I have no idea what that is!) as they tend to hold back the pigments . Allow to dry between coats . Since you want a dark shade, apply a coat of black . You can change the color of leather and some vinyls . It is best to try a test in a small area first . 3 . Finishing with a Top Coat . After you finished the first two steps and the dye is completely dry, it is recommended that you finish the project with some sort of top coat . Alternatively, you may want to finish the project with a mink oil cream for waterproofing . Again, another alternate and a very good one too, is to use carnauba wax to finish the surface . This is "CARNAUBA" WAX . . . not "Carnuba" wax! You cannot use an automotive wax as it will have cleansers and aromatic chemicals to 1) make it smell good to the user 2) will "etch" the surface or is made to remove oxidation from a painted surface 3) create afterglow on the vehicle fenders . . not exactly what you want anyway . Make sure to let everything dry between each and every action or application . Rush this part and you get a poor color value .	SurferJoe46 (51)
609736	2007-11-11 22:47:00	Thanks for that good information Joe, much appreciated . :) I was hoping to pop out and see if I can track down the essential ingredients today but there are three vehicles in my driveway blocking my car in the garage and only one has a set of keys available . Guess which vehicle? :rolleyes: I shall have a few bones to pick with people when they come home tonight . :stare:	FoxyMX (5)
609737	2007-11-12 02:46:00	The oxalic acid is kinda safe . . . don't drink any and add it slowly to the water in about a 80% water to 20% acid mix . Much stronger isn't necessary . It won't burn your fingers or hands . . but will make your nails a little white or yellow . . . depending upon what you eat, vegetable-wise . Try to find the oxalic in powder form . . . it's more stable and goes south if it is wet or kept too long once mixed . A 1/2 day will be fine though . . after that it loses it's efficacy .	SurferJoe46 (51)
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