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Thread ID: 87621	2008-02-27 21:06:00	2 stroke motorcycles	Thomas01 (317)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
644528	2008-02-29 06:46:00	try not to laugh to hard.....its a leaf blower ! i use it for work a lot. really basic setup. idle = completely off throttle. obviuosly air cooled, 50:1 ratio. i've had problems with garages doing the oil mix and stuffing it up (they usually do 20:1). gets vapour lock a bit, also high fuel tank vaccum so i have to crack open the tank every so often as you use the fuel. i don't know if its a fuel thing, running to rich at idle hence pooling oil in the crank case or a spark plug thats a bit to cold.	tweak'e (69)
644529	2008-02-29 16:00:00	try not to laugh to hard . . . . . its a leaf blower ! i use it for work a lot . really basic setup . idle = completely off throttle . obviuosly air cooled, 50:1 ratio . i've had problems with garages doing the oil mix and stuffing it up (they usually do 20:1) . gets vapour lock a bit, also high fuel tank vaccum so i have to crack open the tank every so often as you use the fuel . i don't know if its a fuel thing, running to rich at idle hence pooling oil in the crank case or a spark plug thats a bit to cold . All values are out to lunch if you don't repair that vacuum in the tank problem . There should be . . . no . . . take that back . . . there MUST be an air one way valve somewhere in the tank . . . usually the fuel tank cap . . . that allows air in but no fuel out . They are usually silicon rubber and not adversely affected by fuel or E85 at all . . . but NZ may not have that compound available and has used some other rubber compound instead . I'd suggest checking that out . . and then you likely also have two mixture control screws on the carb . One is labeled "H" and the other "L" . They are simply the high and low mixture jets and they LOOK simple enough to adjust . . but they have to be "tweaked" just so . . and you MUST start with the H jet first . At this point . . don't reach for the idle SPEED adjustment screw . Likely . . . unless you know something I don't . . . it isn't moved nor should it be moved until you have a decent H and L adjustment . I know that sounds strange . . but try to get it on the "fat" side of running clean at WOT (wide open throttle) first, and then go for the L jet . They BOTH affect each other a lot . . . so you have to go back and forth with them both until you get closer and closer to the correct adjustment . Run it fast (no load) and get it to just burble a little as it slightly runs rich at speed and then go to the idle L jet . . . again . . . it's an over-and-over thing . . . so be patient with it and yourself . Throwing the machine on the roof in frustration will not make you feel better for more than a few moments until you realize that it cannot stay there as the neighbors will mock you . . . and you will have to climb up to get it back anyway . . . . . . . and you will not teach the engine to run by cussing/cursing it or threatening it . It KNOWS! It should now be able to idle for days with impunity and when you crack the throttle . . it should now respond instantly with no smoke and a rich crisp high speed cantor . Just remember that running NO LOAD at H will not be a working adjustment . You must leave the H setting a little fat or burble-y or you will run too lean at working loads . That isn't good . When you load it down, it should then start a long . . . clean and non-burbled run as it clears it's throat and makes you look GOOD! Enjoy the admiring looks from wise and not-so-wise neighbors as they view and hear your weed whacker/leaf blower/moped running like a Ferrari 599 GTO Mugello on high pipe . BTW: There are different purposes and chemical formulas for air cooled and water cooled engines . Try to not use one in the other . Water cooled engines run at a narrower temperature band from the water, while air cooled require a completely different oil . Use the correct oil at the correct ratio . Too much oil will mess with the H and L jets too . It actually harms the engine to have too much oil in it .	SurferJoe46 (51)
644530	2008-02-29 19:38:00	All values are out to lunch if you don't repair that vacuum in the tank problem . There should be . . . no . . . take that back . . . there MUST be an air one way valve somewhere in the tank . . . usually the fuel tank cap . . . that allows air in but no fuel out . They are usually silicon rubber and not adversely affected by fuel or E85 at all . . . but NZ may not have that compound available and has used some other rubber compound instead . I'd suggest checking that out . . and then you likely also have two mixture control screws on the carb . One is labeled "H" and the other "L" . They are simply the high and low mixture jets and they LOOK simple enough to adjust . . but they have to be "tweaked" just so . . and you MUST start with the H jet first . At this point . . don't reach for the idle SPEED adjustment screw . Likely . . . unless you know something I don't . . . it isn't moved nor should it be moved until you have a decent H and L adjustment . I know that sounds strange . . but try to get it on the "fat" side of running clean at WOT (wide open throttle) first, and then go for the L jet . They BOTH affect each other a lot . . . so you have to go back and forth with them both until you get closer and closer to the correct adjustment . Run it fast (no load) and get it to just burble a little as it slightly runs rich at speed and then go to the idle L jet . . . again . . . it's an over-and-over thing . . . so be patient with it and yourself . Throwing the machine on the roof in frustration will not make you feel better for more than a few moments until you realize that it cannot stay there as the neighbors will mock you . . . and you will have to climb up to get it back anyway . . . . . . . and you will not teach the engine to run by cussing/cursing it or threatening it . It KNOWS! It should now be able to idle for days with impunity and when you crack the throttle . . it should now respond instantly with no smoke and a rich crisp high speed cantor . Just remember that running NO LOAD at H will not be a working adjustment . You must leave the H setting a little fat or burble-y or you will run too lean at working loads . That isn't good . When you load it down, it should then start a long . . . clean and non-burbled run as it clears it's throat and makes you look GOOD! Enjoy the admiring looks from wise and not-so-wise neighbors as they view and hear your weed whacker/leaf blower/moped running like a Ferrari 599 GTO Mugello on high pipe . BTW: There are different purposes and chemical formulas for air cooled and water cooled engines . Try to not use one in the other . Water cooled engines run at a narrower temperature band from the water, while air cooled require a completely different oil . Use the correct oil at the correct ratio . Too much oil will mess with the H and L jets too . It actually harms the engine to have too much oil in it . The surfer is right . People think its ok to put a little more oil in the petrol but it has an opposite effect . Putting more oil in makes the mixture denser (thicker) and less of it will flow through the jets causing a leaner mixture . Leaner mixture means hot, hot on 2 stroke can mean seize, seize means bugger . I had auto oil mix on rotax 582 but took it off after reading about some Italains CBD (crash, burn, die) when it stopped metering oil . Another fallacy but off topic for plug fouling is the ratio of anti freeze to water in water cooled 2 strokes . Up the ratio say from 4 parts of anti freeze to 2 parts or even 100% the engine will run hotter . Pure water is the best way to transfer heat . In fact in the winter I used to run 100% antifreeze to get the engine hotter to stop cold seize . Thats when you open throttle after a long glide and the engine locks up .	XRNZN (13406)
644531	2008-02-29 21:10:00	Another thing....SOMETIMES you would leave a small piece of sand in the nook 'way up in the shell and it would become dislodged when you cranked the engine...Presto! Instant ring and cylinder damage. Yes Surfer - I do remember that we were very aware of this problem. In fact if my memory is correct we always used a separate air line and really blew the thing out after being sand blasted. I don't suppose sand blasting is used now. Tom	Thomas01 (317)
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