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| Thread ID: 89184 | 2008-04-23 07:44:00 | Electric Heater Plug Hot | pctek (84) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 661854 | 2008-04-23 17:09:00 | . . . . sounds like Chinese wire that looks-like-copper-but-is-really-made-from-old-rice-hulls . We are getting a lot of overheated equipment here in the US as the Chinese have found new ways of killing infidels and the "white Satan" for the Muslims . Just recently found that almost all of our turkey meat is from China too . Ben Franklin's pet official USA Bird is now Oriental! There has been a run on "shellfish poisoning" in our soups with clams and oysters in them now too . Hmmmm? China again! Meethinks so! |
SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
| 661855 | 2008-04-23 19:47:00 | I worked full time for the band Satellite Spies for several years setting up gigs .......we used to draw considerable current as you might imagine..... With certain of the amps etc I had to use heavy gague extension leads as if I used 'normal' (light gague like you'd find on any house type lead) they'd get pretty damn hot with the current draw...... Sounds to me like the current draw might be a little too much for the equipment (plug/leads)........ the suggestion of running it at a lower heat setting should fix this..... |
drcspy (146) | ||
| 661856 | 2008-04-23 21:48:00 | If it's a 2400w heater Yes. Its a Goldair. Made in NZ. Its not new, been around for some time. Not a fan heater, just radiant. I will need it on full come winter. It gets very very cold here. The plug itself looks fine, nice gold colouring, no scorch marks or black. The socket - who knows. It does look a bit dirty? around the 2 top pin holes. The shop is actually on 50kva 3 phase power. Although they have downgraded my bill to 15kva. Actually changing it physically, they kind of lost interest (Powernet) because they'd have to do all 3 shops in the same building and change all sorts of things. Husband is capable of changing/checking the plug. The socket - I'd have to hassle the landlord. You think I should? |
pctek (84) | ||
| 661857 | 2008-04-23 22:01:00 | Husband is capable of changing/checking the plug. The socket - I'd have to hassle the landlord. You think I should? See if changing the plug makes any difference. |
somebody (208) | ||
| 661858 | 2008-04-23 22:08:00 | One other thing, may or may not be relevant. When you turn it on, after a couple of minutes it makes this bang sound. Husband had a look and said its just expansion. I have 2 problems with that explanation: We have another identical one at home which doesn't do it. It does it even if its been on for a while, you turn it off and then straight back on again. Related? Dodgy heater perhaps? |
pctek (84) | ||
| 661859 | 2008-04-23 22:10:00 | if its the socket you should be able to heat marks on the plug pins. otherwise just change the plug. the crimps in them often are not good and with use they get worse and will overheat and catch fire. I've repaired quite a few years ago. just watch tho, rules have changed a bit since i was doing it, appliances that come with molded plugs are meant to have the whole lead replaced with one that has molded plug on it. if you do it yourself just check the copper hasn't gone dark or plastic gone stiff (heat damage). rather obvious, i'm sure you will know what i mean. |
tweak'e (69) | ||
| 661860 | 2008-04-23 22:12:00 | One other thing, may or may not be relevant. When you turn it on, after a couple of minutes it makes this bang sound. Husband had a look and said its just expansion. I have 2 problems with that explanation: We have another identical one at home which doesn't do it. It does it even if its been on for a while, you turn it off and then straight back on again. Related? Dodgy heater perhaps? Try swapping the heaters around and seeing if the symptoms still occur in the other location. |
jwil1 (65) | ||
| 661861 | 2008-04-24 01:52:00 | Just a clarification, a heater cannot draw any more than its rated current, in fact old radiant heaters draw progressively less as the element surfaces corrode, increasing their resistance . If the plug is getting hot, the most likely cause is poor socket connections and if it is an old PDL socket or a modern no-name foreign job the chances increas exponentially . If there is brown discolouration around the top two slots on the wall socket, that is a sign of contact heating which will in time affect the plug as well . Using lower heat only delays the deterioration . Plugs and or leads simply warm to the touch when carrying heavy loads (2300W/10A) are not unusual at all and are no cause for concern, however, hot plugs ring alarm bells, as do plugs or sockets that smell when hot . Minimum fuse or breaker rating would be 15A for power circuits and possibly up to 25A if the cable is rated for that load . 10A is for lighting loads & 1-1 . 5 mm cable . You can ignore the bang, it is very unlikely to be electrical, there would be a cloud of heifer dust in the air if it was . Cheers Billy 8-{) |
Billy T (70) | ||
| 661862 | 2008-04-24 02:26:00 | Just a clarification, a heater cannot draw any more than its rated current, in fact old radiant heaters draw progressively less as the element surfaces corrode, increasing their resistance. But it may be drawing more current than a faulty connection can handle Most fan heaters have a thermally-controlled circuit breaker next to the heating element, if the fan fails or the elements overheat in any way, the breaker will trip (bimetallic strip breaks contact and stops current flowing) The bang *may* be this tripping, causing arcing. generally though they just make a small clicking/popping sound... metal parts in the heater expanding is a very plausible explanation, though. |
Agent_24 (57) | ||
| 661863 | 2008-04-24 02:41:00 | But it may be drawing more current than a faulty connection can handle That would result in temperature related symptoms only, which is primarily what this is all about, or so I thought . :confused: Most fan heaters have a thermally-controlled circuit breaker next to the heating element, if the fan fails or the elements overheat in any way, the breaker will trip (bimetallic strip breaks contact and stops current flowing) The bang *may* be this tripping, causing arcing . generally though they just make a small clicking/popping sound . . . Now we are getting into fantasy land, if a BMS made a bang, that would be the end of it, period, but in any event there was no mention of the heater cycling off and on, and it isn't a fan heater so a BMS won't be fitted . Electrical advice should be relevant to the concern and technically accurate, even if expressed in layman's terms . Cheers Billy 8-{) |
Billy T (70) | ||
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