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Thread ID: 92269	2008-08-04 01:54:00	Car battery jump start/chargers that use cigarette lighter socket	richgamer (13244)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
694755	2008-08-04 01:54:00	Does anyone know if repco or any place in auckland that sell those car battery jump start/chargers that you plug into the cigarette lighter socket and it jump starts the flat battery of a car? i know they sell them overseas, but i just want to know if they sell them in new zealand. the one i'm talking about is the one where you charge the portable unit up from the wall, plug it into a car cigarette lighter socket, and it jump starts the car. an overseas one can be seen here: www.vat19.com anyone know if repco or other places sell it in auckland?	richgamer (13244)
694756	2008-08-04 02:09:00	Have you tried ringing anyone?	Speedy Gonzales (78)
694757	2008-08-04 02:19:00	Does anyone know if repco or any place in auckland that sell those car battery jump start/chargers that you plug into the cigarette lighter socket and it jump starts the flat battery of a car? i know they sell them overseas, but i just want to know if they sell them in new zealand. the one i'm talking about is the one where you charge the portable unit up from the wall, plug it into a car cigarette lighter socket, and it jump starts the car. an overseas one can be seen here: www.vat19.com anyone know if repco or other places sell it in auckland? They are NOT jump starters. Getting a cigarette lighter socket to tranfser that sort of current would involve skills that only marketing people can describe (But not deliver!) They gradually charge the car battery a little, so that it (car battery) can deliver that charge rapidly to the starter. If luck is with you, this lets you start the car. The best technique with these widgets is to plug in a fully charged helper battery and leave it to boost the car battery while you have a leisurely lunch. After the requisite pause, your car battery may be sufficiently charged to let you start :clap - - but only providing the car starts easily.	R2x1 (4628)
694758	2008-08-04 02:23:00	Better than investing in a widget like this would be to make sure your battery was not "past it" and making sure your alternator was doing the job it is intended to perform. Money much better spent.	johcar (6283)
694759	2008-08-04 02:27:00	Let's see . . . the starter pulls sixty kajillion amps . . . and the cigarette lighter is fused at 15-20 amps . . . . . . something's gonna happen . . but not a jump start! They are battery BOOSTERS . . provided the battery needs and will accept a boost . As far as a jump start . . stick to good quality jumper cables, not booster cables . Unless you like to read by the glow of the booster cables, you need something along the line of 200 to 300 amp capacity copper and NOT aluminum!	SurferJoe46 (51)
694760	2008-08-04 03:26:00	If your car has fuel injection and has computerised electronics, it is not advisable to jump start it, as you well most probibly blow up the electronics. That is what the sticker under the bonnet of my Honda Civic says, or something like that. :)	Trev (427)
694761	2008-08-04 03:50:00	If your car has fuel injection and has computerised electronics, it is not advisable to jump start it, as you well most probibly blow up the electronics. That is what the sticker under the bonnet of my Honda Civic says, or something like that. :) Almost 50% true. It's not the current, as there's a lot of that flying around under normal circumstances when you start an engine. It's the transient spikes from another starter or charging system that can kill yours or theirs. When you hit the key, you send spikes all over the B+ and it's possible..but not very likely that you can do some damage. New computers in cars/trucks are very hardy...and it takes a LOT to harm them. They gate the voltages and filter it all pretty good...but if you get to jump or are jumped by an older vehicle that isn't making clean DC with less than .013VAC ripple, then you are gonna be in trouble...maybe. It's a crapshoot and I don't like the odds myself. :crying If you MUST jump or get jumped...make sure that the vehicle with the good battery is not running. That'll take the CPU outta the equation and lessen the chances of peripheral damage. Just make triply sure that you observe the correct polarity. As a rule, the BIG battery post is always the POSITIVE one if you cannot tell otherwise. That .013VAC ripple is also the gate in deciding if you have a good verses bad alternator. Run a DVM in the AC mode on the output of your alternator and see if it's clean. A Caveat here: Some systems send 400hz exciting voltage to the field(s) to excite them to make more current during idling. It isn't a fair test to say that .013VAC is a bad thing for them at that time. Just bump the engine speed up a little to shut off the 400hz exciter system and if you see any more than .013VAC then..you've likely got a bad alternator.	SurferJoe46 (51)
694762	2008-08-04 03:52:00	I've been jumping all sorts of vehicles from all sorts of other vehicles, tractors, ride on mowers, etc etc, always with the other car running (not with the ride on mower of course though), and never had any issues. Positive to positive, negative to negative. Flat battery clamped on negative first, then negative on running vehicle, then positive on flat, positive on charged. Used a lancer to start a large tractor, and then the reverse the next morning when the lancer battery was flat. :D	wratterus (105)
694763	2008-08-04 10:47:00	Used a lancer to start a large tractor, and then the reverse the next morning when the lancer battery was flat. :D In desperation I once used a 7AH SLA battery to start my Mazda 626 wagon (using normal jumper leads). It worked, but the SLA battery wasn't worth squat afterwards. BTW SJ, vehicles don't really have a 'B+' voltage. That terminology dates back to the early days of radio where they used a 1.5 volt 'A' high current battery for filaments (heaters to you guys?) a 90 volt low current 'B' battery for high tension and a tapped 6 or 9 volt 'C' battery for very low current drain bias voltages. C batteries lasted many years and there are a few vintage radios around even today that still have an original equipment C in place and working. Cheers Billy 8-{) I guess the 'B' designation may creep back into more common usage for electric vehicles but anything under 48-50 volts won't cut it.	Billy T (70)
694764	2008-08-04 13:08:00	All the vehicles with dead computers I've repaired have been caused by hooking up the jumper battery/pack backwards (+ve to -ve, -ve to +ve), usually by the owner or his friend/s (they usually dont tell you that they've done that either). I dont think SJ meant B+ (as in vintage radio battery type), more likely battery positive (terminal) ;)	feersumendjinn (64)
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