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| Thread ID: 106611 | 2010-01-15 16:38:00 | Digitalising old negatives and photos | notechyet (4479) | Press F1 |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 849052 | 2010-01-15 19:57:00 | Guys/Ladies PF1, that's where you get the answers! :thanks |
notechyet (4479) | ||
| 849053 | 2010-01-15 23:02:00 | One way used quite well here is to project them onto the screen the have a camera mounted on a tripod and photograph them saves loads of time and the results can be reasonably good I agree, having tried almost everything including 50cent per slide professional service, :eek: I found the best way was to project the slide onto the screen from close quarters and photograph the picture on screen. Drawback was I needed to do it in darkness and I needed to make a small screen, as the old screen used for 35mm shots was too grainy. A piece of A4 paper would probably have done, but I just happened to have a piece of white plastic. Frankly I was staggered by the results. However, this was 35mm slides and black and white negatives is another kettle of fish. ;) |
B.M. (505) | ||
| 849054 | 2010-01-16 10:30:00 | The local Jaycar stockists (Masterton) had a scanner for doing slides, negatives and photos. | mikebartnz (21) | ||
| 849055 | 2010-01-16 10:55:00 | Yep you can pay. You can also DIY. Nikon scanner is $$$ at $1,000 or more. They have been discontinued too by Nikon Corp. So they are what remains at the mo. There are lesser quality flatbed scanners - depends on your requirements. There is also the projector method and use a digital cam to take the pix - thou this won't work with brown neg film. While you pay for a company to do it. To do a proper job DIY it does take some time. You scan it and you need to clean out the dust spots and hairs..... yes you may use ICE but that softens the image which is not that bad I guess... and then clean a few spots and improve the image via levels or curves .. and then resave the file. To do a proper job myself it may take me 15min for one image. I am into my photography and even in this day, I intend to shoot medium and large format film. Some of you may say, what a odd ball :D I have 20 or 30 rolls of film in my freezer just for 35mm format. What I tend to do with scanning film is that I use a catalog software, I scan all the film automatically - which scans each diff film and saves them each separately, I scan them 1024 size to save my time. I don't use ICE - save time, I don't clean spots - save time and they are only for preview. I don't adjust the colors. Auto is pretty good but require more work if you wanna archive them. As I just preview them I don't bother. In future if I like that and wanna work on it more, I take the film out again and rescan and take my time and do the full works. Properly post processing every 36 shots in each roll of film, is just too much work. Heck, I don't even edit all my digital shots (despite the lack of scanning required). I go on travel may shoot 300 on a week, I return and edit maybe 15 for 6x4 inches printed at kiosks or online and I print maybe a few at larger sizes. :p 90% of them gets unedited. |
Nomad (952) | ||
| 849056 | 2010-01-16 11:02:00 | If you wanna a tradeoff. Maybe install the strips of film into the scanner. Auto scanner settings etc. Turn ice on that should get rid of most particles but it may have a tradeoff like .. a old stone building, it may think the window is stone color too when in fact it was a glass window. Things like that. No real adjustments, no real rotate and stuff ... Just keep that. I have a high end flatbed scanner, it should take a few minutes to scan each image at a proper res like 4000. You load up the scanner, provided you have long strips 6 shots per strip I think, if you have mainly 24 shots for the roll (consumer film) one sitting may do one roll. If you have 36 shots for the roll, that may require 1.5 sessions per roll. Yeah .. after you click scan go away for a cuppa. Careful thou. If you have a lot of dark shots like fireworks or dark shots inside churches etc... the scanner cannot recognise the frame of your shot. You may need to do it manual - that means draw a square around the film of what you think is the frame and hit scan each time ...... |
Nomad (952) | ||
| 849057 | 2010-01-17 22:52:00 | 1) What the heck is ICE (Nomads posts) 2) Is there a scanner that does the other size film that was common in the cheapie hanimax? camera it looks to be a smaller size film, half my rellies used that style and the others used 35mm |
Morgenmuffel (187) | ||
| 849058 | 2010-02-04 02:42:00 | Look people my brain is boiling I still don't know what ICE is and I think the other film size is 110? does that seem right | Morgenmuffel (187) | ||
| 849059 | 2010-02-04 02:51:00 | From Wiki: Digital ICE, "Image Correction and Enhancement", a technology automatically removes surface defects from a scanned image | Zippity (58) | ||
| 849060 | 2010-02-04 03:18:00 | @ Nigel. What sort of budget you want to spend? Basically if you don't have $2,000US forget about 120 formats - they are larger than 35mm film if you want a dedicated scanner. Not sure about 110 but see below. You are probably looking at flatbed scanners. Flatbed scanners are really just a plastic holder that goes on top of your scanners's glass. You can shoot anything from 35mm film to 8x10" (A4) sheet film. If you have APS which is smaller than 35mm you can do that too but you have the joy of breaking the APS cassette up and striping the film out and cutting it. Other sizes - use your imagination. ICE is a hardware feature on your scanner. You can choose to enable or disable it. It does work well ie., automatically remove hair and dust spots but you would still need to use a editing software to fully rid it. It does soften the image unfortunately. If you are picky, you may want to disable and spend more time in photoshop cleaning it up manually. You also need to be careful as sometimes and also depending on your setting it may do something wrong. For example if you are in Eastern Europe and you have a old style concrete clock tower, it might think the window is a dust spot so your window becomes a white concrete with dark frames around it :D |
Nomad (952) | ||
| 849061 | 2010-02-04 03:30:00 | ICE uses infra red scanning to detect any hairs and marks on your film. I think it might even work if your child drew on your negs or if your negs has a rip on it. Does not work with black and white film thou. |
Nomad (952) | ||
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