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Thread ID: 146462	2018-08-09 06:01:00	Car mechanics not sticking to the maintenance schedule?	Nomad (952)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
1452485	2018-08-12 22:16:00	True but the reason you flush through the brake clutch fluid is because after a while its got a lot of water in it. .... If doing big braking like going down the Takaka hill the fluid gets hot the water turns to steam, steam compresses you lose the brakes Ive had that happen , not pleasant . Luckily I made it to the bottom just as the brakes became near unusable. Change your brake fluid. :-)	1101 (13337)
1452486	2018-08-12 23:36:00	It happened to me in the hose van ( 1996 Ford Tragic)going down into Piha lost the brakes, I pulled on the handbrake a bit and there is road at the bottom I managed to run off at speed. I fixed a digger there and tried the brakes about an hour later they were fine and fluid level was ok. Spoke to a mate about it weeks later he tested the fluid with a tester and it was off the clock with water percentage. Bleed new stuff through and didnt happen going to Piha again but then again I was going slower and in a lower gear as I was a bit PTSD.	prefect (6291)
1452487	2018-08-13 00:11:00	Lol	zqwerty (97)
1452488	2018-08-13 00:24:00	Yes surfer joe, I would imagine these bushes have been replaced previously. And yes the current ones have been knackered for a while. I’m still impressed. It would be very difficult to cover that sort of mileage in NZ	plod (107)
1452489	2018-08-15 00:30:00	SJ; You heard of/used the Lucas transmission slip fix? Scotty Mechanic (www.youtube.com)(YT vid at 3.37 mins - Lucas) reckons to add some to dirty/unserviced transmission fluid, rather than draining the old fluid. How can it work? My beloved Odyssey (now "retiring it" - only use 20 km per week or so) is approaching 50, 000 km without tranny fluid changed. Might be cheaper and easier to use the slip fix... As for your vehicle acting up. This interesting article (www.autoserviceprofessional.com) (Tech section - Auto service Pro's), in tracing poor idle, they had to resort to advanced "big guns" (not the firearm type) diagnostics to solve - but only half the issue. There was a second issue - a rarity? I pulled two (or 3) CEL's once on my Honda once - because of surging at idle. Jammed pintle on EGR (code), overworked IACV code (the duty cycles over-worked too much I think) and subsequent misfiring (code). Bits of the fragmented cat converted honeycomb blew back into the EGR...	kahawai chaser (3545)
1452490	2018-08-15 03:13:00	@kahawai chaser -->SJ; You heard of/used the Lucas transmission slip fix? Scotty Mechanic ( . youtube . com/watch?v=ctpVCWjd8b4" target="_blank">www . youtube . com)(YT vid at 3 . 37 mins - Lucas) reckons to add some to dirty/unserviced transmission fluid, rather than draining the old fluid . How can it work? My beloved Odyssey (now "retiring it" - only use 20 km per week or so) is approaching 50, 000 km without tranny fluid changed . Might be cheaper and easier to use the slip fix . . . I watched Ol' Scotty - and he's full of waste products . First - Lucas products are pretty good but his use of their transmission additive isn't right . A transmission with actually seriously burnt fluid didn't get that way because of the torque convertor . It's a symbiotic process where all the parts and pieces contribute - but the convertor is not the worst culprit unless it is disintegrating! Burnt fluid was caused by 1) deterioration of the lip seals, 2) abraded friction material from the clutches and/or bands, 3) metal particles from cracked and flaked-off nitrided gear faces (reduction and multiplication gears called Sun Gear Assemblies), 4) shelled-out bushings on stator supports or inside the planetary gears, and5) friction caused heat that broke down the fluid into it's more base product, 6) liberating the lighter elements into the atmosphere . Last - but not even close to the least ---> the transmission can be contaminated by the radiator heat exchanger . The so-called transmission 'cooler' (which it is not) will have higher pressure than the cooling system while the engine is running and up to speed . When you shut down for the night, things reverse and now the radiator and it's system are higher pressure than the transmission and coolant will travel into the transmission . This is death to a transmission!!! Back to point----> There is NO Mechanic-In-A-Can repair for that - and he went into that saying a transmission in that condition is hanging by a thread anyway . Lucas additive will not replace the lighter aromatics in the ATF at all . It WILL add a little alcohol and methanol, trichloroethane and perc 1,1,1 to the fluid to attempt to soften the lip seals - which in and of itself may be a lost cause by that time anyway . [One however, can use a dose of brake fluid to resuscitate seals that have gone hard and leak until they warm up] . His assessment of the torque convertor causing all that damage isn't right . TRUE - the convertor is the primary source of heat in a transmission, but modern designed and computer (either) assisted or controlled transmissions have sensors that can tell if the fluid has gone above a certain preset and it will attempt to cool itself by locking up the convertor via the TCC solenoid . Even adding 24 ounces of additive into a transmission will not cause any problems . I've filled a few to the top and although the fluid got hot, the unit functioned correctly . OK - there was serious leaking and foaming out the dipstick tube - but it worked! I just let it assume it's own preferred fluid level and we've been going together for 18 years now . Back to my original thoughts: 24 ounces isn't enough to cause any harm and certainly not cause any further damage and Scotty actually did advise to draining 24 ounces first and then replenishing the lost fluid with a 24 ounce bottle of magic was the right thing to do . Now ---> 24 ounces of beer ---- meh! Anyway - a FLUSH is totally different from a SERVICE . The first: breaks loose a lot of junk that is better left alone so it won't harm the valves and controls inside the valve body . . . . . sleeping dogs and all that ---- . . . . . . . whereas a SERVICE just changes the fluid that exits when the pan is dropped and then a new filter is put in along with a new pan gasket (except on some transmissions that have permanent gaskets - yup - they exist) - putting it all back together and adding new ATF without any additives . I really dislike additives unless one uses it to prepare a transmission for rebuild by actually cleaning the inside of the unit . It works pretty good! SERVICING on a regular schedule is the best preventative . SIDEBAR: I like Lucas products, but not all of them . One product I miss is STP . As for your vehicle acting up . This interesting article ( . autoserviceprofessional . com/article/91903/Tracing-poor-engine-idle?Page=1" target="_blank">www . autoserviceprofessional . com) (Tech section - Auto service Pro's), in tracing poor idle, they had to resort to advanced "big guns" (not the firearm type) diagnostics to solve - but only half the issue . There was a second issue - a rarity? I pulled two (or 3) CEL's once on my Honda once - because of surging at idle . Jammed pintle on EGR (code), overworked IACV code (the duty cycles over-worked too much I think) and subsequent misfiring (code) . Bits of the fragmented cat converted honeycomb blew back into the EGR . . . . . . . That my Isuzu exhibits these symptoms pretty much any time it feels like it - but never until it goes into CLOSED LOOP, means to me that there is a device that is not working correctly once the computer comes on line . I suspect the Mass Airflow Metering device . New ones do not exist and rebuilt ones cost a first born male child . Let's talk Brake Fluid Changing/Flushing/Cleaning . Primary rule----> NEVER press the brake pedal down when the fluid is not full up in the master cylinder . If you ask why, I'll tell you but it is a sidebar for here and I want to get this brake fluid service thing corrected first . IF you want to just replace the fluid - and there is a good reason to do so once in a while ---> then 1) just go to one of the rear brakes 2) and open a bleed cock . Be careful since they can break off easily! 3) and open the fluid reservoir 4) and upend a small bottle of brake fluid into the mouth of the reservoir . The bottle of new fluid will slowly glugg into the reservoir (like a water cooler, but with brake fluid) as it is needed and you can relax a bit whilst it is happening . 5) and then close the rear bleed cock, 6) and repeat the same process on the other rear bleed cock . 7) and now go to the front of the vehicle 8) and moving to the front wheels now 9) repeat the same process at this end of the car 10) until all four wheels have been so-serviced . This process will keep large pieces of rubber flakes-now-congealed-into-gunk from entering the very ($$$$$) ABS valves . DO NOT PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL DURING ANY OF THIS PROCESS . THIS IS YOUR SECOND WARNING! [/milk crate] ADDENDUM_DE_DUM_DUM: If this was a 1932 Ford "A" Model - parts are always available . But not on a 1989 Isuzu Amigo . Go figger .	SurferJoe46 (51)
1452491	2018-08-15 09:24:00	Ok. Thanks for the info. I had difficulting trying to source a door handle for the equivalent Isuzu Mu. for a mate. Got one online but had to alter it slightly, similar to my Honda's key door lock. From China of course. Had to demel/grind them a bit. For your MAF you could try the OBD1 paper clip/wire bridging trick at the consult port (What I use to do on a old Nissan of mine). Works good - If you can carefully watch and count the dash light blinks (and also below near floor through the power train's/ECM observation window if it exists). long/slow flash(s) - break - fast flash(s) if one code. Then 2 sec break and another sequence if another code exists. There may be 2 codes. Happen to my MAF. Confirmed by back probing the 3 or 4 wires, Voltage was low I think for the command on feedback. Carefully cleaned the filament wire with contact or carb cleaner. Then came right. There should be part number stamped on the plastic sensor device; search e.g. ebay, or at least cross reference online for other OEM's since I think engine also used for Opel, Chevs, even Honda. Click Here (www.2carpros.com)for Isuzu to OBDI 1 bridge test to pull codes...will forever repeat until ignition is turned off or on; But might enter another mode for DTC tests though.	kahawai chaser (3545)
1452492	2018-08-15 17:06:00	On my Isuzu, sold originally in The Philippines, there is no ALDL. All I have is a three wire setup stubbed out of the ECM that I short together with the key off to get the blinking codes once in KOEO mode. The blinks are only in the CEL in the speedometer cluster, as these aren't even as sophisticated as an antique Datsun. There is NO LIVE data stream - just what the ECM saw last duty cycle. Using the blinks to diagnose anything on an Isuzu is so badly broad in nature, that it is better to just start replacing parts and see when the problem goes away. All you can get is a dialog like this (from online owner's manual): "You had a 4-2 flash code. This can be a defective element in either the tail lights, the dashboard dimmer, the radio Keep Alive Memory or a problem somewhere in the wiring harness between frame junction #3 to frame junction # 11". Yeah - it's THAT vague. I'll have to switch to my Christopher Columbus mode in that I shall "seek until I find" something I guess.	SurferJoe46 (51)
1452493	2018-08-15 23:46:00	On my Isuzu, sold originally in The Philippines, there is no ALDL . All I have is a three wire setup stubbed out of the ECM that I short together with the key off to get the blinking codes once in KOEO mode . The blinks are only in the CEL in the speedometer cluster, as these aren't even as sophisticated as an antique Datsun . There is NO LIVE data stream - just what the ECM saw last duty cycle . Using the blinks to diagnose anything on an Isuzu is so badly broad in nature, that it is better to just start replacing parts and see when the problem goes away . All you can get is a dialog like this (from online owner's manual): "You had a 4-2 flash code . This can be a defective element in either the tail lights, the dashboard dimmer, the radio Keep Alive Memory or a problem somewhere in the wiring harness between frame junction #3 to frame junction # 11" . Yeah - it's THAT vague . I'll have to switch to my Christopher Columbus mode in that I shall "seek until I find" something I guess . As you probably know, a series of diagnostics MM tests - voltage drops/readings/continuity between the ECU and the components/loads/solenoids, etc . Perhaps also within the fuse/relay box(s), which may have water damage on the circuitry panel - seen that in a vid (Nissan Versa) . Had to be replaced . My step father had to replace the ECU in Toyota Hiace once too - got water damage . I resealed the roof rust hole and inner lining andr panel - after finding the leak . Off course becomes tedious and cumbersome, bending/crouching around doing diagnostics .	kahawai chaser (3545)
1452494	2018-08-16 03:04:00	DO NOT PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL DURING ANY OF THIS PROCESS . THIS IS YOUR SECOND WARNING! What happens if you do . Advice taken, just wondering as to why I used to slowly push the brake pedal to force the fluid through, being carefull to watch the fluid level . changing brake fluid on my mountain bike, that was an awefull experience . Had to be forced through with squeezy bottle , through a tiny hole . Plastic tube on the squeezy bottle would fly off spraying me with brake fluid :mad:	1101 (13337)
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