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Thread ID: 146462	2018-08-09 06:01:00	Car mechanics not sticking to the maintenance schedule?	Nomad (952)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
1452475	2018-08-10 08:48:00	200km? Sure that is probably the letter of the law, but to me it's more the arbitrator being past his/her use-by date. Yes we were blown away too, since the dealer admitted to using the wrong oil but blamed the over km for the major engine fault and were believed	gary67 (56)
1452476	2018-08-11 07:17:00	Dont over think it. Just change all the fluids and filters including bleeding through new brake and clutch fluid. As far as wrong oil its BS, the piston engine has not changed much since 1880 and oil is oil, it comes out of the ground. Synthetic oil lasts longer but I wouldnt waste it in 10 yr old car in the engine or the auto. They say new engines need new oil well nothing has changed. The oil needs to lube the crankshaft big ends and mains ,the big end bearing is taking the same load in a 2018 Ferrari as a 1959 Morris Oxford. Multi grade oils are good because the viscosity does not change much with temperature but there are workarounds for plain oils dont thash the car till its warm. Do not forget the fuel filter which is commonly under the car and the pollen filter for the air ventilation and heating. Once you have changed the the fluids change them again on a schedule if you keep the car that long. There is a school of thought called the bangernomics theory you do nothing and when the car dies you dump it and buy a newer one. You mentioned flushing it easy for the power steering just let it pump out and replace the fluid a few times. Autos well drop the pan clean it out replace the filter run it drain the fluid refill it if you want to.	prefect (6291)
1452477	2018-08-11 08:51:00	In my 69 years of car ownership I have never flushed the brakes, except once by the AA against my wishes. That nearly killed me, dirt had lodged under one of the valves in the master cylinder, and the pedal went to the floor. This has happened to people in the past with cars with single outlet master cylinders. They have a smash then when the car is checked afterwards the brakes are OK, the dirt has passed through and is no longer a threat. The same AA did a heavy discharge test on my battery, after I had asked them not to as it was on its last legs. They also replaced the front anti roll-bar bushes. They fitted them upside down, so I had to refit them. Morons! As for Automatic transmission flushing, it all depends on the smell. If the fluid is pink and smells fresh its Ok. If turning brown, and smells of toast, change it, especially if you do any towing. Just make sure that you use the recommended oil. If you use the wrong one you could get band slipping.	mzee (3324)
1452478	2018-08-12 07:17:00	True but the reason you flush through the brake clutch fluid is because after a while its got a lot of water in it. This water rusts or corrodes out the master and slave cylinders then the seals leak. If doing big braking like going down the Takaka hill the fluid gets hot the water turns to steam, steam compresses you lose the brakes and crash. When it cools down the brakes come back. I have completely respect your comments on vehicles etc and still do but I dont see how the dirt lodges in the valve of the master cylinder. Before you flush out the fluid you suck out the reservoir put in new fluid and bleed it through, shouldn't be a drama because no air has got in. What does happen with brake bleeding is some people push the pedal right to the floor, this a no no as the seal is now riding over a wear ridge in the master cylinder and it can leak. The trick is to put a piece of 4x2 under the pedal when bleeding to stop the pedal going down too far. Clutch no probs as it goes right down anyway. Another thing that can happen is the proportioning valve can stick when bleeding and you will lose the back brakes, the proportioning valve relaxes the pressure on the rear brakes as the front has to do most off the braking. A whack with a hammer may free it or sometimes you have to disassemble it.	prefect (6291)
1452479	2018-08-12 07:28:00	In my 69 years of car ownership I have never flushed the brakes, except once by the AA against my wishes. That nearly killed me, dirt had lodged under one of the valves in the master cylinder, and the pedal went to the floor. This has happened to people in the past with cars with single outlet master cylinders. They have a smash then when the car is checked afterwards the brakes are OK, the dirt has passed through and is no longer a threat. The same AA did a heavy discharge test on my battery, after I had asked them not to as it was on its last legs. They also replaced the front anti roll-bar bushes. They fitted them upside down, so I had to refit them. Morons! As for Automatic transmission flushing, it all depends on the smell. If the fluid is pink and smells fresh its Ok. If turning brown, and smells of toast, change it, especially if you do any towing. Just make sure that you use the recommended oil. If you use the wrong one you could get band slipping. I had similar after flushing brake fluid. Not long after the brake pedal would take a while to return upwards. We discovered the flexible brake hose had delaminated inside due to a small mass/stone scouring it. This created a one way valve, according to my Uncle a ex-mechanic, hence slowing the return of the fluid after braking. Hence not quickly pressurising the brake system. There were particles accumulated in the piston/caliper. Will never brake flush again. As for oils. I now have two cars - a big 2.4 L Odyssey and a tinny 1.5 L Nissan. Got away using cheap 20/50 oil (change 2 yearly) for the Honda over 6 years. but I think need a thinner - and usually more expensive (about twice the cost) 5 -10/40 Oil for the Nissan. My question is, are small chain driven engines suited to thinner Oil (flows faster but may not lubricate effectively), than timing belt driven behemoth cars? Smaller engines, may have narrow passages, and compact adjacent engine parts, therefore require thinner oils, particularly on startup, and more gentle style driving...	kahawai chaser (3545)
1452480	2018-08-12 07:40:00	True but the reason you flush through the brake clutch fluid is because after a while its got a lot of water in it. This water rusts or corrodes out the master and slave cylinders then the seals leak. If doing big braking like going down the Takaka hill the fluid gets hot the water turns to steam, steam compresses you lose the brakes and crash. When it cools down the brakes come back. I have completely respect your comments on vehicles etc and still do but I dont see how the dirt lodges in the valve of the master cylinder. Before you flush out the fluid you suck out the reservoir put in new fluid and bleed it through, shouldn't be a drama because no air has got in. What does happen with brake bleeding is some people push the pedal right to the floor, this a no no as the seal is now riding over a wear ridge in the master cylinder and it can leak. The trick is to put a piece of 4x2 under the pedal when bleeding to stop the pedal going down too far. Clutch no probs as it goes right down anyway. Another thing that can happen is the proportioning valve can stick when bleeding and you will lose the back brakes, the proportioning valve relaxes the pressure on the rear brakes as the front has to do most off the braking. A whack with a hammer may free it or sometimes you have to disassemble it. Good tip prefect. Do you mean bleed the master cylinder on i't own? maybe I should have done that, rather than flushing entire system. But I recall there were dirt/particles trapped in the caliper, which when flushed (and yes foot to the floor) which then possibly lodged in the hose. But driving environment is key. If daily driving steep hills/bends then regular and proper braking maintenance is important.	kahawai chaser (3545)
1452481	2018-08-12 09:15:00	Have a google for “ million mile Lexus”. , so it’s not quite at a million miles but it’s spilling around 988000 miles, about 1.5 million km. Shows what a well serviced car can do. The trans has been rebuilt once. There is conflicting stories if the motor has, but it is the original motor. Don’t get me wrong the thing leaks within a minute of parking it up. But overall it still drive nice apparently. It is now requiring major work on suspension bushes i last heard. I put this down to two things, Toyota reliability and maintenance. Not saying other makes aren’t capable as I’m sure surferjoe has probably done twice the mileage in one of his yank tanks	plod (107)
1452482	2018-08-12 20:43:00	@Nomad; Your: 1 . reusing oil filters . Some manufacturers specify that every other oil change is the correct replacement schedule . 2 . using 20w40 oil on any cars . we asked them what they used and that was what they wrote down for us . This may be wrong on several levels - most new engines use the newer 15/30, 5/20 or 0/10 oils . 3 . not advising customer to change the air filter or fuel filter or anything like that . The ECM will decide when to replace the air and fuel filters . Watch for the Check Engine Lights (CELs or SES lights all count too!)The computer just knows! 4 . not advising fluid flushes ever . NEVER flush anything in a modern engine - older engines for the same matter! It breaks loose all the collected crud and makes it go into suspension again, this time not as tiny particles, but great big chunks . These can lodge in and block necessary and calculated-in flow characteristics in the fluid systems . 5 . not advising belt changes until the drive belt squeaks or the (engine?) refuses to start up . Many customers are kinda hinky about getting new belts every time a mechanic needs a new car payment . It goes against the grain on some people - but really - SOME surface cracking on belts is very acceptable as long as you cannot see threads hanging out OR the innards are showing through the cracks . . If OTOH there is tension of the belt problems, look elsewhere . a) Many times a tensioner is failing and it's spring is losing it's ability to keep the belt tight . b) Contamination (oil, coolant, brake fluid) is something that should be fixed if it truly is getting to the belt(s) anyway . c) The belt(s) could actually be worn out . There are gauges to test the grooves in the serpentine belts to see if they have enough relief to actually run on the sides of the VEES, not on the bottom of the sheave . Is it much harm at all using sort of OK stuff but things that is not to spec? Your average motorist buys a cheap 8-10yr old car and uses it for 10yr right then it's literally worth nothing . An 8-10 year old car is well into the area of using ONLY 5/30 . 10/40 or as some of the Deutsche Imports, 0/10 or 0/15 . I'd like to think it was an anti-friction design, but I really think it was to simplify the sheer number of parts that go into each engine . These 'MINI-weight oils are specifically needed for the new engines because the engineers have decided that oil PRESSURE is not the correct criteria for longevity of bearings and things that go 'bump' inside an engine . Now - these days, OIL IS A METERED commodity, and there must be sufficient flow to any areas so designed - to keep them wet - NOT PRESSURIZED . It seems that bearing failures were caused by over-pressure . it would cut through any minor - and I mean VERY MINOR imperfection in the bearing or the journal that it was supposed to protect . . . . and the life of both of them suffered premature failures . My first experience with a High Flow/Low Pressure engine was a 3 . 8L Ford V6 that had no bearings in it at all . The block itself was the bearings and the surface of it was so beautiful that I just stared at it for a while . Now - I dislike Ford - won't own one - but that impressed me . It's not a Jaguar or some collectible . The actual value of a Jaguar is debatable to me . We use them for gunnery practice and write rude things on them with spray paint . That said, I know people who bought a used car, used it for another 10yrs and the brakes . . . and trans were never flushed Typically, and in the US - most vehicles don't get brake system flushes because mechanics don't know how to do it without destroying the ABS system . . . . . . . . again here - we NEVER flush a transmission . We CHANGE THE FILTER . PAN GASKET AND WHAT ATF WE CAN ACCESS BY ONLY DROPPING THE PAN . This requires dropping the transmission pan to have a look-see too . It all helps . Things DO fail and cease forward motion - or there'd be no need for tow trucks in this world . Doing this on REGULAR INTERVALS will keep the transmission happy and serviced . It's designed in that IF you do this on regular schedules (more often if you are a nut behind the wheel) - the fluids that get changed will return the ATF rejuvenation-qualities back to it again to protect the innards and mysterious things that go whir and pop inside the transmission . . . . . . . . . . . and it worked for that time . SOME people just get away with murder to their vehicles . It serves as testimony about how robustly vehicles are build these days . You couldn't do this sortta stuff to a 1953 Chevy or a 1932 Ford . We never changed the oil or the filters (what were filters in those days anyway!?) and any changes of gaskets, spark plugs, oils and water were done during engine rebuilds that were every 500-1,000 miles or so . I am SO not going to compute Sillimeters for youse guys - you gotta get back to The King's Nose for dimensions if you want to succeed in this world! Even if a drive belt had an issue, it was like one afternoon and it's back on the road . Oh yeah? Try to change a drive belt on a PT Cruiser . It's an all-day sucker! Your views? :)[/QUOTE]	SurferJoe46 (51)
1452483	2018-08-12 21:10:00	Have a google for “ million mile Lexus”. , so it’s not quite at a million miles but it’s spilling around 988000 miles, about 1.5 million km. Shows what a well serviced car can do. The trans has been rebuilt once. There is conflicting stories if the motor has, but it is the original motor. Don’t get me wrong the thing leaks within a minute of parking it up. But overall it still drive nice apparently. It is now requiring major work on suspension bushes i last heard. I put this down to two things, Toyota reliability and maintenance. Not saying other makes aren’t capable as I’m sure surferjoe has probably done twice the mileage in one of his yank tanks I am actually somewhat impressed with Lexussesses (Lexi?) I question the NOW part about the need for control arm bushings and various rubber devices in the suspension, front or rear. Betting your money, I'd say it's needed rubber for a while ans by now the metal-to-metal noises are noticeable because the radio has ceased working ;P Rubber can only take so many duty cycles and that's not counting on your bad roads (I've seen travel brochure of NZ where there are no roads at all and a farmer is driving his family pet Yak to market) or guys who like to Evil Knievel * (en.wikipedia.org) their cars with daylight under all four wheels at some part of their daily commute. * FYI : that's a noun used as a verb, so it's a GERUND. I say so. I dislike and love the engines at the same time. They have a lot of monkey-motion in them for operating the valves and frankly their bearing journals are small and thin in diameter. Transmissions on these always were a nice source of income for me. Here in the US - especially in SoCal - where I lived for most of my adult life - well, vehicles get many tens of thousands on miles on them every year. (Youse guys are gonna hafta get out your secret decoder rings to convert your own d@mned Sillimeters!) Most mileage is stop-n-go and what isn't that is Light Speed when the freeways get empty (not a condition as far as I know these days - but I don't live there any more so don't ask me) I digress. Yeah - I buy that it might go a million miles or so. I cannot attest for whatever miles my 1986 Chevy Blazer had on it when I bought it - the odometers on those older vehicles never went over 99,999 miles or they'd flip over to 000000000000. It was like being reborn! My Isuzu (not a Chevy, but close!) is running right at 500,000 miles and the 2000 Astro Van (another Chevy) is at ALMOST 300,000. Don't ask me about my Isuzu though - right now I am mad at it. It's sick and acting up and it ain't telling me what it needs! I waved my Glock in front of the headlights in a threatening manner to show it that I mean business - but it so far has just ignored my best attempt to either 1) fix it ....... or 2)) threaten it into submission with a 10mm between the lights.	SurferJoe46 (51)
1452484	2018-08-12 21:49:00	Don't wave a Glock at an Isuzu or you may find it has a Ninja spirit lurking. Wave a plasma cutter (oxy-acetylene for older models of vehicle or waver) - that is something like sharpening a cleaver in front of the chookhouse (chicken run for those traditionally behind the times). That is a symbol vehicles understand, but chanting "Well girls, who doesn't like laying eggs every day?" only works for chooks. You might want to look into the trauma of a fine machine shackled to miles, gallons, Fahrenheit, and calendars that are a couple of seasons slow. Driving around upside down while trapped almost a day behind leading countries does nothing good either. (Isuzus can forgive the tyres being filled with recycled smog in pounds/sq in, since Pascals are impossibly small and will leak out at the slightest provocation.) Also consider allowing the thing to drive on the left side of the road as nature intended; it alleviates vehicular homesickness while sharpening your neighbours' reflexes.	R2x1 (4628)
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