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| Thread ID: 103388 | 2009-09-21 07:33:00 | Car buying advice | somebody (208) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 812464 | 2009-09-21 07:33:00 | I'm looking at buying a reliable & economical car later on this year. I've spoken to a number of people to get their advice, and wonder what you guys think? The prevailing opinion so far is to stick with a well known Japanese brand - Toyota, Honda etc. - and get a model known for its reliability - like the Corolla. I haven't set a budget yet, but financing is definitely not an option so the cheaper the better. |
somebody (208) | ||
| 812465 | 2009-09-21 07:39:00 | We tend to get from the auctions cos it is cheaper and we don't like car dealers and with re: to past experiences. They can do financing too... I think the cheaper cars but still in good nick might be a 2000-2002 model. Those compact cars tend to be more efficient and a 1.3L or such if you just do urban driving. |
Nomad (952) | ||
| 812466 | 2009-09-21 07:39:00 | My vote is for a Toyota. I sold a 1989 Toyota Starlet about 4 years ago and bought a 1995 RAV4 which I still have. The Starlet is still running around town here. I sold it for $800.00 back then. |
Sweep (90) | ||
| 812467 | 2009-09-21 07:41:00 | Robin Reliant were pretty good in their day. www.imagef1.net.nz Ken |
kenj (9738) | ||
| 812468 | 2009-09-21 07:54:00 | Thanks guys - I don't want to waste money paying interest to finance companies, so my preference is to buy a cheaper car which I can afford (and pay cash for). The car would mostly be used for city driving, with the occasional long distance trip. |
somebody (208) | ||
| 812469 | 2009-09-21 07:55:00 | Buy something with low kilometres below 100,000 kms otherwise the money you save on petrol will go towards repairs. Dont buy European cars they are big trouble. |
prefect (6291) | ||
| 812470 | 2009-09-21 08:09:00 | Also when buying check when the cam belt was last changed. Usually every 80,000 Km. | Sweep (90) | ||
| 812471 | 2009-09-21 08:17:00 | I have always stuck with 4 cylinder Nissan's and Toyota's, early to late 90's, as some are relatively cheap and economical, used parts are plentiful, and relatively easy to work on (if you do that), with dozens of online forums/sites/tutorials to learn/repair from. Also new parts are cheap online (ebay, STA Parts NZ (http://www.staparts.co.nz/)). After buying, selling and repairing numerous small to mid size Japanese cars with family/friends over 15 years, I learnt to check CV boots (inner and outer for rips), intermittent erratic idle (as air flow meter prone to getting dirty, or not grounding properly), front strut noises (sometimes upper bearing binds, causing spring to wind during slow turns, then squawk noise, when straightening up). Also check steering rack/pump leaks, if electric fans come on (usually twin fans - both should spin on when A/C is turned on, I have seen many fail), window switches and their motors (up/down), if cam belt has been changed at about 80, 000 km intervals, check rust (or evidence) in the front corners engine bay area, lower front door panels, and hidden under/inside rear window/hatch. Patched/discovered hidden rust many times in those areas... |
kahawai chaser (3545) | ||
| 812472 | 2009-09-21 08:30:00 | Check CV joints. Front wheel drive. Do this by turning on full lock with a bit of speed. If you hear a clack clack clack sound they need replacing. :) |
Trev (427) | ||
| 812473 | 2009-09-21 09:10:00 | I am currently selling my very much loved Honda Accord EX it is a 1990 5 speed manual but it may not be quite what you want, although it is in great nick and only one owner . If you want to know more pm me if you want . LL OOOPs!!! I take that back . Just had a phone call from the guy who was selling me his car and he has sold it to someone else! So the Honda is now off the for sale list . :blush::blush::blush::blush::blush: LL |
lakewoodlady (103) | ||
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