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| Thread ID: 103388 | 2009-09-21 07:33:00 | Car buying advice | somebody (208) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 812514 | 2009-09-22 05:20:00 | Under $5k is the range I was originally looking at, but I do have a bit of flexibility if an exceptional deal comes up. For example, if there was something up around the $6-8k range that was significantly better than what I could get within my budget (and would last 5-10 years longer), then I would seriously consider it. | somebody (208) | ||
| 812515 | 2009-09-22 05:21:00 | Diesel works out out cheaper in the long run even with the RUCs. With newer CRDI motors the economy is astounding. I know of 2.2 RAV4s diesel giving 6.8l/100km, Right now there is about 60c difference in petrol and diesel (more if you go 98)? It is only the economy of the diesel engine that is counting in the end. Going on your figures 68l per 1000km saving 60c/l = $40.80 saving over petrol. RUC per 1000km = $39.68 from 1 Oct, there goes your saving. |
PaulD (232) | ||
| 812516 | 2009-09-22 06:51:00 | When I had diesel, sometimes I had the perception that savings were minimal, when RUC was due for payment, and the higher road user charges. This is for around suburb type driving, and no long distance. | kahawai chaser (3545) | ||
| 812517 | 2009-09-27 00:33:00 | I found some time this week to take a 2001 Honda Civic hatchback (1.5L vtec, auto, imported) for a test drive and it seemed quite good. Transmission was smooth and the car handled well (although I only took it for a short drive), the body looked to be in good condition and the interior was tidy as well. I had a quick look under the hood and there was some evidence of rust in a few places, but nothing structural - is there anything in particular I should be looking out for with this model? I'll have to find some time to test drive a couple of Toyotas for a comparison - currently thinking of testing out a smaller Corolla and an Ist, but I won't have time to do it for a few weeks. |
somebody (208) | ||
| 812518 | 2009-09-27 00:56:00 | IF IT HAS ANY RUST EVEN SURFACE RUST STEP BACK FROM THE MACHINE AND GO HOME. | prefect (6291) | ||
| 812519 | 2009-09-27 00:58:00 | IF IT HAS ANY RUST EVEN SURFACE RUST STEP BACK FROM THE MACHINE AND GO HOME. Ok. |
somebody (208) | ||
| 812520 | 2009-09-27 01:10:00 | IF IT HAS ANY RUST EVEN SURFACE RUST STEP BACK FROM THE MACHINE AND GO HOME.You don't need to be quite that extreme, but if you do see any rust be sure you check *very* thoroughly for any more, and make sure that you completely remove *any* rust before it gets away on you. Note that rust removal can involve more work than you might think. If there is any structural rust, or more than a little anywhere else, then leave it alone. I'd also strongly recommend you get an AA inspection / check by trusted mechanic done before you buy the car. If the seller doesn't agree to let you do this, then they're trying to flog something dodgy on you - walk away. |
Erayd (23) | ||
| 812521 | 2009-10-02 04:01:00 | Two further questions: 1) Has anyone dealt with a company called Motohound (motohound.co.nz)? 2) If I bought a car that was imported 2nd hand (i.e. not registered in New Zealand yet), how long does it take to register the car and get a set of plates? |
somebody (208) | ||
| 812522 | 2009-10-02 07:46:00 | See if this may be of help www.ltsa.govt.nz |
convair (13650) | ||
| 812523 | 2009-10-02 07:51:00 | See if this may be of help www.ltsa.govt.nz I considered importing a car but decided it wasn't worth the hassle. What I'm referring to is buying an unregistered car from a dealer - do they just keep stacks of number plates ready to go (and can process the registration then and there), or do I have to fill out forms, send it to LTSA, and wait till they send me the plates? |
somebody (208) | ||
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