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| Thread ID: 103573 | 2009-09-28 11:44:00 | Alternator question | prefect (6291) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 814758 | 2009-09-28 11:44:00 | Flashed up camper to get it ready for COF and alternator light stayed on. I sure aint an auto electrician and get a real one in for work. For some reason the light used to stay on before until the engine was revved then it would stay out. Revved engine heaps light aint going out now. I took alternator out which is a horrible job through the wheel arch. I checked the wiring (2 wires) not including the thick one which goes to battery one wire went to alt light and when earthed light came on with key on, checked other wire ha no power this surely has to be the field wire it was dead, impossible to trace wiring in front without pulling out the radiator and grill so I run a wire from key to the alternator. Put alternator back in bastard job worse than taking it out, flash up engine, light still does not go out look down at engine and smoke is pouring out of the alternator. Recheck the wiring and its ok What the hell have I done wrong? Thought bugger this I have a spare mitsi alternator from Ford Trader I will smack that on, go to fit it pulley size different I need a B section belt one. No probs I will change pulleys but no the pulley ID hole is different Give up in disgust. Would I have wrecked the alternator I mean serious amounts of smoke came out of it. The alternator does not even have a label or name cast in and its not standard as there would have been a generator there originally because the old Lucas voltage regulator is still there. |
prefect (6291) | ||
| 814759 | 2009-09-28 12:15:00 | So why not get the real auto electrician to fix the problem? Maybe at the same time he can rewire your brain for extra money. I have no clue as to what you did wrong with the alternator. Does the camper use Linux? |
Sweep (90) | ||
| 814760 | 2009-09-28 17:37:00 | Where is our resident Lucas expert for comment on this?? Ken :lol::lol: |
kenj (9738) | ||
| 814761 | 2009-09-28 18:07:00 | Is the smoke possibly from the belt rubbing if it wasnt put on properly. Usually the only thing I have ever replaced on an alternator are the brushes although sometimes you can get away with a little sandpaper on the armature contact ring and rig it so a bit more spring pressure is put on the brushes |
sam m (517) | ||
| 814762 | 2009-09-28 18:49:00 | I reckon, like Marvin, the diodes have a pain..................:D | Terry Porritt (14) | ||
| 814763 | 2009-09-28 19:22:00 | Where is our resident Lucas expert for comment on this?? Ken :lol::lol: Its not a Lucas alternator its a japper I think. Belt not rubbing it was smoke like you get from electrical fryups. I will take it to auto sparky today to get him to test it and give a condition report and a wiring diagram. Only thing is they charge like a wounded bull I cant put it thru the books at work in case someone dobs me to the IRS. |
prefect (6291) | ||
| 814764 | 2009-09-28 21:51:00 | Often the diodes die within the rectifier pack, and some can be a pain to replace from my own experience, when de-soldering (sometimes have to meticulously solder to de-solder to spread heat) the three or 4 wires. This will also allow removal of the stator (for testing). Then both can be tested for continuity (or absence off). This is explained at this excellent Mitsubishi procedure (www.stealth316.com). For circuit testing of alternator components this article (www.tpub.com) covers that. But don't know about your smoking alternator - maybe the diodes got burnt out. Was it dismantled? I always test a suspect alternator with a multi-meter on a car when idling - Voltage output should be about 13.7 to 14.4. Then turn on lights/heater/etc and voltage should drop briefly - then back up. If increase revs to about 1500, and voltage should go up from your idle readings, but if only a small increase, then possibly a shot diode pack. If maintain revs and output is too high (near 15 V) - then regulator. |
kahawai chaser (3545) | ||
| 814765 | 2009-09-28 23:14:00 | With some alternators, the third wire supplies the armature with a controlled supply to regulate the output. It varies in the applied voltage, but from memory averages between 2 to 5 volts. 12 volts may mean the alternator attempts to deliver 100 volts or so to try and deliver the huge current you have commanded. If the alternator still works it has demonstrated a ruggedness beyond the call of duty, and has passed the smoke test. The lead to the battery has probably been annealed as a handy by-product of the experiment, and any slightly suspect connections to the battery have likely been arc welded in-situ. Naturally all difficulties can be squarely blamed on the Lucas monstrosities cluttering up the van. Have them exorcised and placed in a shady spot at/in your nearest Lucas rep. |
R2x1 (4628) | ||
| 814766 | 2009-09-28 23:18:00 | If there is someone stupider in NZ than me I want to know about it. The alternator was real old (excuses excuses) and had an external regulator which I only just found hidden under dash (more lame excuses) and not far from prince of darkness regulator which cant be removed unless the screws are drilled out. So I burnt out alternator by not wiring it to the regulator. Although the alternator would have just need a repair its buggered now. Managed to get a bigger pulley and put it on spare alt I had. When the sparky was thinking of a price I reminded him of my old **** bus cash cows and the amount of other sparkies out whest he gave me a pulley for nicks. Thanks Terry, Sam, kahawai, Rx and Ken for advice. |
prefect (6291) | ||
| 814767 | 2009-09-28 23:21:00 | Prince of Darkness ? ? Credit where credit is due please, "King of Darkness". |
R2x1 (4628) | ||
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