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| Thread ID: 109172 | 2010-04-27 07:50:00 | Ford escort steering | bluezone (12434) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 880342 | 2010-04-28 08:18:00 | I agree R2 bugger the expense, can buy singular ball bearings at bearing places in milimeter sizes. | prefect (6291) | ||
| 880343 | 2010-04-28 08:42:00 | ok. just waiting for email from a steering shop in chch. also been on a ford escort forum asking about best way to remove them. Dont want to just go and grind or cut things. :) | bluezone (12434) | ||
| 880344 | 2010-04-28 08:42:00 | How are you going to shorten the rack if you don't know how to take it apart. Do you mean shorten the rack ends? Where do you live? Nowhere near me I hope |
Phil B (648) | ||
| 880345 | 2010-04-28 09:03:00 | Making the rack only 210mm long normal size is about 450mm. Have got plans on how to shorten it but no plans or workshop manual on how to strip it I have got most parts off it apart from the 2 inner tie rod ends. Live in Rangiora just out of Christchurch. |
bluezone (12434) | ||
| 880346 | 2010-04-28 09:05:00 | Is it for some sort of cart? | Phil B (648) | ||
| 880347 | 2010-04-28 09:18:00 | Yeh a Edge products Piranha offroader. Like this. www.edge.au.com www.edge.au.com |
bluezone (12434) | ||
| 880348 | 2010-04-28 09:45:00 | It's a while since I've done an old ford, but if my memory serves me well, there is a pin that's driven into the thread to jam it up after the rack end has been fitted. I think I held both the ring & the rack end with big swan neck pliers & undid the rack end without moving the lock ring. You can then get at the lock pin & get it out. When refitting ( I fitted new rack ends ) I locked them together again & used medium loctite on the threads & didn't worry about the pin. | Phil B (648) | ||
| 880349 | 2010-04-28 19:28:00 | I've personally done this very same job on my own escort, about a decade ago! From memory, that bit you are trying to drill out is actually a lead pin. You'll have to get a replacement one, and basically gently pound it into the hole, where it deforms to essentially do the role of a rivet. Its only purpose is to keep the two halves of the ball joint together. Once the pin is out the two halves just unscrew. Take care though! You only want to drill the soft lead. If you start drilling hard steel, then you've gone too deep! From memory, once you're inside there's a white plastic seating face against the ball which reduces slop in the joint (which I think is what had forced me to do this job - to replace the worn plastic bit). |
Paul.Cov (425) | ||
| 880350 | 2010-04-29 10:48:00 | Thanks for all that help. Paul.Cov your the man. Thanks. Got the Lead pin drilled out and used a nail punch to tap the lock ring undone and then removed the ball joint. Yeh there is a white plastic part thats got a washer and spring behind it that pushes on the ball. There is a slot cut in the rack for the pin to go into. Photo. i713.photobucket.com i713.photobucket.com |
bluezone (12434) | ||
| 880351 | 2010-04-29 21:53:00 | What an amazing forum! There is no end to the talents and experiences of those who post here. Amazing!! :thumbs: | Richard (739) | ||
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