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Thread ID: 110555	2010-06-22 07:01:00	Renovating question	beetle (243)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
1112401	2010-06-22 07:01:00	ok everything is on hold till i finalize what i want ......in the bathroom....... changed my mind heaps...... lol i really like the glass frameless showers, but this requires the floor to be attacked... can some one actually tell me how they work when first put in? are they on concrete or wood normally? how do they get the sloping effect? thanks :waughh: beetle	beetle (243)
1112402	2010-06-22 07:53:00	Hi Beetle. Can't help you directly, but it seems you're getting involved in some renovating big time ... I've found a great source of ideas to be had at the Home Ideas Centre. They have many exhibitors with all kinds of products, with free literature and technical data for the asking. Very few sales reps to pounce on you and sell you something you don't want - browse at your leisure with no time constraints, and compare products side by side. No, I don't work for them :lol: The Auckland address is The Strand, Parnell, and while I was looking up the address, in case you don't live in Auckland, here's Christchurch (Mandeville St, Riccarton) and Wellington (Esplanade & Hutt Rd, Petone). Hope this helps. :thumbs:	WalOne (4202)
1112403	2010-06-22 08:32:00	Hi Beetle, I'm right in the middle of planning major renovations to my bathroom as well. One of the things I looked at was the type of shower you're looking at, wet area shower is what they're called. Although I don't know how they get it to slope what you have to take into consideration is that you're going to need a building consent as a waterproof membrane needs to be laid. Hope that gives you a little bit more info.	uk_kiwiguy (15844)
1112404	2010-06-22 08:34:00	Normally you attack the floor to create the slope and then have it fibre-glassed to seal it and the walls, then you have it all tiled before the glass company come and install the glass surround. Alternatively you can build the floor up to get the same result but it means you have a small step into the shower, not so good for old doddery folk. Remember a family home sells better if it has a bath as it's easier to wash little kids in a bath than a shower. Normally just use a wooden base but as I said let into the floor	gary67 (56)
1112405	2010-06-22 11:54:00	I have 2 bathrooms . . . . . . . . . . . i got a quote but im not happy with what they suggested, so looking at other options . . . . . . . . and try and decided what i want before i get another quote . it currently has a concrete floor, it had a 840 size shower in it, which i have mostly removed . . . . . . . . . and i will need a small vanity, which i think needs a cupboard to hide stuff in . and if i need a toilet i dont know what to pick or what sort i need . . . . P or S im confused on that one . but i like the glass shower walls, but maybe the wet floor showers are out, the other shower is over a bath, s nice deep soaker bath . . . . . . . bliss . . :D but i just cant decide . . . . lol typical beetle there i guess . . . . . . . . . . . alway good at changing my mind . . . lolololol thanks for the input, and sad to say im in wangavegus so its unlikely i will get to that home place you are talking about Walone . . . . . . . :rolleyes: beetle	beetle (243)
1112406	2010-06-22 13:13:00	P&S are easy, think of them as rotated 90 degrees P goes through wall and S through floor.	PaulD (232)
1112407	2010-06-22 19:53:00	Not so easy to do a wet floor on concrete unless you can use a jack hammer or want to build the floor up then	gary67 (56)
1112408	2010-06-23 00:40:00	We looked into membrane-type floors last year because Mrs T was dead-set on having a tiled ceramic showerbase but the logistics and cost were simply unacceptable for an alteration in an existing home. Not only that, but not one single supplier or installer was prepared to give a categorical guarantee against leaks. They all said weasel words about movement of timber sub-floors during the seasons, difficulty in sealing adequately etc and in the end they put Mrs T right off the idea, something I had been completely unable to do! She settled instead for what I think was a cast polyester base that was very solid (not floppy acrylic or fibreglass) that could just sit on the existing floor. Mid you, the entire project was a bit of a disaster, the shower installer dropped the glass door, which promptly destroyed the frame for the sliding door and both doors, They didn't seal the top of the liner at all, so when the new shower head decided to blow a gasket and send a very fine spray backwards and up the wall, my office below copped the leak. Those were fixed, then the new handbasin cracked across the bottom (replaced by the supplier) followed by the S trap leaking because the plumber didn't do it up properly, and he damaged the wooden vanity top getting the cracked one out. Next disaster: the toilet pan sprung a leak from the somewhere on the pan side of the P trap, which defied (and still defies) identification. It was an Aussie product sold by a local shop who stopped selling shortly after we purchased it, and we had it for over a year before installation. We were wedded to the model because of other logistic factors so we couldn't just buy another type and I had to put a plastic tray underneath to catch the leakage, which came and went at erratic intervals while we got another. After long and patient negotiations I finally got the Aussie supplier to agree to sell us a replacement because they wouldn't replace under guarantee, then while I was trying to arrange shipping etc I found that it had a 5 Year warranty in OZ. The bloke I was dealing with in Oz was not very helpful but after further trauma I ended up dealing with a woman who agreed to honour the 5 year warranty, arranged shipping at no charge via a shipment to another NZ client company. I picked it up, installed it, and you would have thought the story would end there but no, this new bathroom was going to go down fighting! All was well for a couple of days, and we were rejoicing at the leak-free bathroom at last, then my daughter went in and shrieked! The floor around the pan was once again awash with water. :crying It was a two-bathtowel job, which was far too much water for a pan leak, so I looked at the cistern to pan interface (all dry) which left only the water supply from the tap to the cistern. It didn't leak again, and I couldn't see anything wrong with the connections but there was one solitary drip where the water went into the base of the cistern. It didn't leak again over the next two days but I dismantled it all again and fitted an external rubber washer just in case. So far so good. Not that I'm trying to put you off beetle, but you have to watch plumbers like a hawk, this was the third one in a row to do a less than stellar job and he was well known to me from his work at the local High School where I chaired the BoT so I thought he was OK! To be frank, you will probably do a more careful and thorough job! Cheers Billy 8-{)	Billy T (70)
1112409	2010-06-23 02:09:00	oh my goodness Billy.......... man oh man does this now seem more of terror filled idea after all......... the only thing that currently works in the bathroom at the moment is the toilet...........and each time we need to go we are reminded of the mess we have made from stripping wallpaper and the holes in the walls from other assorted jobs people have done, and the thing just seems to be a horror from start to finish trying to work out at a reasonable cost of what to do....... and it makes it difficult due to odd sizing of the shower, and the problem of not be able to put the items anywhere different in the room due to windows and size of room........ and the fact that when i look at shops selling plumbing stuff it all seems over priced and too upmarket for the style i need in this not modern house........:waughh: i have hope and a huge amount of time on my side i guess.........to keep searching.:p beetle	beetle (243)
1112410	2010-06-23 02:37:00	Getting references off tradesman is always a good idea; the more the better, and across a variety of timeframes as well, so you can assess the quality of their recent work, as well as older jobs where problems may have developed over time. It's also worth asking if they have professional indemnity insurance to cover any major issues. I prefer to use smaller contractors too, as they're more likely to be the person doing the actual work; larger firms will often send experienced workers to scope the job out, and then send their 'less experienced' guys to do the actual work. You may have to pay a little more for sole tradesmen, but the quality of their workmanship is generally better IMHO.	nofam (9009)
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