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Thread ID: 111252	2010-07-20 00:13:00	Any Opticians out there?	B.M. (505)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
1120530	2010-07-21 23:58:00	I have purchased several pairs of rimless glasses from 39dollarglasses over the last 5 years - all with titanium bendable frames. They were well worth the investment. At around $150NZ each, they sure beat the $700 - $800 demanded for the same here :)	Zippity (58)
1120531	2010-07-22 00:15:00	I have purchased several pairs of rimless glasses from 39dollarglasses over the last 5 years - all with titanium bendable frames. They were well worth the investment. At around $150NZ each, they sure beat the $700 - $800 demanded for the same here :) Thanks Zip. I will need a new pair of specs sometime soon and will go with your link. To get my progressive lens specs in NZ will be near $1,000.	Strommer (42)
1120532	2010-07-22 00:27:00	Thanks Zip. I will need a new pair of specs sometime soon and will go with your link. To get my progressive lens specs in NZ will be near $1,000. Ideally they need to be fitted by optician,so that they sit right on your nose,talking graduated.	Cicero (40)
1120533	2010-07-22 01:14:00	Ideally they need to be fitted by optician,so that they sit right on your nose,talking graduated. 39DG gets around this issue by asking you to provide a pupil to pupil measurement - or something :) Just go to their site and check it out. Don't be put off by the BS that the Opticians here will tell you.	Zippity (58)
1120534	2010-07-23 03:18:00	Thanks guys for all your advice. :thanks I’ve come to the conclusion that the problem is a protective film over the lens. ;) It is worn through in one place causing the eclipse effect. Anyway, I checked with the optician that made the glasses and they reckoned it’s a new set that’s needed. :( However, not to take no for an answer, I found a very old bottle of Silvo and decided I would try and polish the whole of the coating off. So far, so good, but hell that coating, whatever it is, is hard. The eclipse effect on one lens has been taken almost to the very edge of the lens but that left an imbalance with the other lens so now I’m trying to polish the coating off that one too. :rolleyes: My index finger and thumb on one hand’s is about 1cm shorter now but I guess they’ll regrow? I'll let you know the outcome in a couple of days so everyone will know whether or not to waste both their time and fingerprints. :D	B.M. (505)
1120535	2010-07-23 03:20:00	You could use a Dremel with a soft polishing/buffing pad to save the finger wear :)	Zippity (58)
1120536	2010-07-23 10:32:00	However, not to take no for an answer, I found a very old bottle of Silvo and decided I would try and polish the whole of the coating off . So far, so good, but hell that coating, whatever it is, is hard . The eclipse effect on one lens has been taken almost to the very edge of the lens but that left an imbalance with the other lens so now I’m trying to polish the coating off that one too . Well, I wish you luck, but if the lens surface beneath that coating is also being worn away by the Silvo, then you will also be adjusting the powers in the lens - most likely flattening the central part of the lens and introducing distortions in the process . If it seems ok after all this I'd be keen to know, as I'm bound to meet clients at times with the mettle (and the Silvo) to give this a go themselves . I'd beware the use of powertools to do this, as generating heat can add to the risks, and also considerably increases the risk of concentrating the polishing effect too long on a small area (meaning lots of distortions and a bad power) . Silvo is a reasonable choice of polish . In the bad old days of contact lenses being made from perspex Silvo was indeed used as one of the polishes . The front surface of the lens should have a scratch resisting coating BENEATH the AR coat, which might increase your chances of success . However, not all lenses have the scratch resistant coating on the rear surface, so there's a higher danger of making a mess doing this on the rear surface . Subjecting the coatings to heat shock (thermal expansion) by going repeatedly from hot to cold (ice-water to hot water and back) might help you to make them delaminate and seperate off more easily, but I still hold little hope for a happy result . One reason lenses cost so much is that they are so easy to bugger up and have to be replaced, and consequently some of the cost of fixing problems is built into the original price that is paid for working them . Amazing how some people treat their lenses . I once had an old fellow come in, place the lenses face down on the counter and skid them across to me, only to complain "they're scratched" . There have been others who have used sandpaper to try to remove marks (Sigh), so I must compliment you on having a far more civilised tactic!	Paul.Cov (425)
1120537	2010-07-23 11:06:00	Many thanks for your input Paul. :thumbs: Yes, I take on board what you are saying and I’m not backing myself on this one. :lol: My problem is that I did my apprenticeship in the post war years when you had to fix everything yourself, simply because there were no replacements. The words of my old boss still ring in my ears: ("Bob, you’ll have to do the best you can with what you’ve got!") Still, I can shoe a horse, fix a puncture, punch the information into this damn computer and now I’ve moved onto optics. :D Where will it all end?	B.M. (505)
1120538	2010-07-23 21:21:00	Heh, we're both tarred with the same brush in that respect, although the influence on me was from depression-era parents. However, giving it a go is often the best way to learn skills, so I fully endorse your efforts, win or lose it was worth a go, and all you will have lost will be some old silvo, and a layer of skin on your thumb! The heat shock effect is often what starts the AR coat problems, so is not something that people should attempt under any other circumstances. The theory is that the coating will heat up and expand faster than the body of the lens when heat is applied. Likewise, the surface will contract faster than the lens when abruptly cooled, so the relative movement of the coating vs the lens tends to cause the coating to start to break loose. It also however fractures the coating into a maze of little islands, but in theory they should then scrub off a whole lot easier. Ohh, just remembered that it is sometimes possible to strip the coatings with acid, but it also can ruin the lens. I think it's some kind of fluro-something acid, and is savage. We got some once and were immediately instructed by management to get rid of it due to the risk of injury.	Paul.Cov (425)
1120539	2010-07-23 21:34:00	They have this machine where you look down and it auto gets your settings and then you go into a room for them to fine tune it . NZ seems to do everything in the room and don't invest into maybe $$ equipment . The optometrist (in Wellington) I went to had one one of those machines - it got the prescription close, but not entirely right, so they had to fine tune it (astigmatism plus prism correction) . NZ's slowly catching up with this sort of technology :)	somebody (208)
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