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| Thread ID: 113033 | 2010-10-02 05:02:00 | # of circuit breakers an Point-of-entry telephone cable | CCF (6760) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 1141116 | 2010-10-02 05:02:00 | Hey ya guys Just got a question in regards to circuit breakers and telephone cables. For the circuit breakers, Im thinking of having our house re-wired, to save cost, Im going to run the wires myself and then have a electrician do the final connection for me. In regards to the number of circuit breakers, is there a limit to how many you can have on an electric panel? As I am currently planning to have about 3-4 power socket in each room, where each wall socket will have support up to 10A simultaneously, if this is to be the case, would that mean that each wall socket will have its own circuit breaker? Because I have 3-5 rooms that may have that many number of power sockets, would that mean my electric panel will have 15-20 circuit breakers? Sounds bit much...am I missing something here? As for the telephone cable, has anyone tried replacing their telephone cable from the point-of-entry? Or how much it cost to get a telecom technician to connect 2 pieces of cable together? This is because I am thinking of switching our telephone cable from point-of-entry to cat5 cables. Im very tempted to do it myself, however unsure if its allowed. As well, does anyone know if I should be aware of any electric issues when dealing with the point-of-entry telephone cables? Or can I treat them like ordinary telephone cables? Any comments or suggestion are welcome ^^ |
CCF (6760) | ||
| 1141117 | 2010-10-02 05:25:00 | Disclaimer: I am not an electrician. The circuit breakers are there to protect the cable going to the sockets. It's not unusual to have a 15 or 20A breaker for a line which goes to several power points if it's wired with 2.5mm cable - i.e. you don't need a separate 10A breaker for each power point in your house. If you have requirements like certain points needing to be capable of pulling 10A concurrently, you should make this clear to your electrician when they come and give a quote for the job. |
somebody (208) | ||
| 1141118 | 2010-10-02 06:52:00 | Disclaimer: I am not an electrician. The circuit breakers are there to protect the cable going to the sockets. It's not unusual to have a 15 or 20A breaker for a line which goes to several power points if it's wired with 2.5mm cable - i.e. you don't need a separate 10A breaker for each power point in your house. If you have requirements like certain points needing to be capable of pulling 10A concurrently, you should make this clear to your electrician when they come and give a quote for the job. I am a retired electrician & agree with the above. You might want to find yourself an Electrician who will do the final connections & Certify the work.First. Not all will. I was never willing to.It made ME responsible Legally for ALL the work done in the house. No way. PJ |
Poppa John (284) | ||
| 1141119 | 2010-10-02 10:20:00 | Re the phone cabling - my understanding is that you are allowed to do anything you like on your side of the entry point, but if anything you've done causes problems, you have to pay for the damage and the fix. Note that I may well be wrong; I can't remember where I heard that and it was a few years ago, so take it with a very large grain of salt. |
Erayd (23) | ||
| 1141120 | 2010-10-03 00:09:00 | Hey there guys Much appreciated for the replies so far . As for the power cables, well all I am going to do is run the cables, but the number of cables I would need to run will depend heavily on the number of circuit breakers I can have . And if my understanding is correct (which i would like some to confirm for me), for each wall socket to be able to support up to 10A simultaneously will mean each wall socket will need its own line and circuit breaker, if this is true, then I will need to run a lot more lines to what I have at the moment . Of course once Im done with the wires, I'll get a electrician to install the panel and other main components . All Im doing is running the wires . Because I've been told that rerunning wires in a finished building can be very time consuming, as well electricians tends to be rough with the walls and all . As for the telephone cable, glade to hear that we can do anything from the entry point and beyond . However in my case where my house is ~50years old, where we dont have a white box that houses our telephone cable, instead our internal phone line is coupled via connectors directly to the main phone line from the pole . The situation is that where the 2 cables connects, it is located, exposed, at the front of our house, where the length of the cable from the pole is just long enough to reach our house and connect to the internal cable, photo example ( . imagevenue . com/img . php?image=61399_x100_3318_122_366lo . JPG" target="_blank">img16 . imagevenue . com) . Does any one know if request can be made to telecom to extend that external telephone line so that it can be housed inside? Cause when it rains, my DSL speed can decrease as much as 1mbps . . . . |
CCF (6760) | ||
| 1141121 | 2010-10-03 01:59:00 | Hey there guys As for the power cables, well all I am going to do is run the cables, but the number of cables I would need to run will depend heavily on the number of circuit breakers I can have . And if my understanding is correct (which i would like some to confirm for me), for each wall socket to be able to support up to 10A simultaneously will mean each wall socket will need its own line and circuit breaker, if this is true, then I will need to run a lot more lines to what I have at the moment . If you have a 20A circuit breaker, then you can have two wall sockets connected up using one cable (for example) and still be safe, so long as you use the correct sized cable . How many circuit breakers you can have will depend on the size of your switchboard enclosure - but as far as I know there is no legal "maximum number of circuit breakers you are allowed in a house" . |
somebody (208) | ||
| 1141122 | 2010-10-03 02:53:00 | It all sounds like a rather dangerous proposition to me, and I'd suggest you seek the guidance of an electrician for cable sizing etc . Unless you are planning to operate an indoor cannabis plantation, I can't see how you could load multiple outlets up to 10 amps, that is 2 . 4kW per outlet! Something is seriously screwy in either your planning or your understanding of electrical loading, and either way, you need professional assistance . Cheers Billy 8-{) :confused: |
Billy T (70) | ||
| 1141123 | 2010-10-03 04:17:00 | Hahaha Billy T you make it sound like Im a mad scientist, haha. But seriously, 10A per socket, 4 socket per room is pretty reasonable in this day and age. I mean I rather be safe with 10A sockets than with multi-socket panels from the warehouse or extension cords. As well it gives convenience when you are using devices, such as vacuum cleaners or power tools. Having several 10A socket doesnt mean I'll be using 40A worth of power 24/7 just imagine the power bill I'll be getting at the end of the month :waughh: I do know the cable size is a factor, I have done my fair share of research prior in planning this rewiring ^^. My current plan is to use 15A cable per 10A socket. Though to what 'somebody' had suggested, running 20A on 2x 10A socket, will properly be easier on the wallet. Though my worry on this is that by chance if 12A worth of amp were to feed off that socket, then will that wall socket be able to handle such amount of power? From memory, those 15A wall socket is slightly different from standard 10A wall sockets. But I will keep this in mind shall cost of this be beyond my grasp...then again I dont think circuit breakers are all that cheap either :crying |
CCF (6760) | ||
| 1141124 | 2010-10-03 05:38:00 | I'd hate to see what your power bill looks like if you're consistently drawing 10A from multiple power points throughout your house... Someone is selling these for $5 each: www.trademe.co.nz - whether they comply with NZ standards or not is another question... |
somebody (208) | ||
| 1141125 | 2010-10-03 05:51:00 | I keep forgetting youse guys use 240VAC, so my comments about sub-par wiring and breakers was all erased before I re-wrote this. Double the voltage and halve the amps! Still - I won't rope a job with less than 150% amps factored in, no matter what size the breakers - I always double the code requirements on runs over 30 feet. We usually use 15 Amp service, and occasionally an individual socket will call out for a 20 Amp dedicated service, and we jump up one gauge of wire for that. But you can never allow a higher Amp breaker on a smaller gauge wire even if the receptacle is the lower Amperage. It has to match all the back to the home run and each leg is distinctive! If you do decide to rope the walls (what we call the process of pulling cable) - you better make sure that you label each and every run with something that won't fall off or get smudged! A real electrician can meg-out the wires and ring the circuits - so having the rope in the walls is not forbidden - it's just not normally done by a homeowner. But if you think about it - many time the rope is run by a framer anyway and they just sky it out of the wall box conveniently to keep it out of the way of other trades if there's no electrician on the premises. After that - the electricians take over and tie it all in. I've gone on new construction where the plumbers have even pulled rope just to get it out of their way. In construction logical order - the framework is first, plumbing is second (and everyone stays outta the way!) - then the fireblocks and finally the wiring is pulled and run just before the wall is sheeted. One wallboard apprentice actually cut the excess wire off at each box to make his job easier. I had the walls all opened again to re-rope the whole building and I took my time to do it - and why not - the wallboard sub was paying for it all. I chased his apprentice from the job-lot with my hammer. So - I don't see where working in Upsidedown Land would make an electrician any angrier if the rope was in the walls by the time he gets there. IF the labels are all intact, that is. |
SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
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