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| Thread ID: 113754 | 2010-11-02 21:05:00 | Any Plumbers on board? Pipe hammer problem. | Billy T (70) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 1149848 | 2010-11-03 02:01:00 | Another thing to try is fitting simple "snubbers" in the form of orifice plates to the solenoid inlets of the washing machine. F&P used to supply these made of plastic. |
Terry Porritt (14) | ||
| 1149849 | 2010-11-03 03:10:00 | Well Roddy, your keyboard and enthusiasm ran ahead of your brain yet again. Homeowners cannot install sanitary plumbing, because that is where the crap can hit the fan, but minor plumbing repairs like tap replacements, putting in a new waste disposal etc are all OK. I have always done all my own plumbing repairs and I would be very surprised indeed if it was an offence to install an air-chamber to stop pipe hammer. I suspect you were simply being a smartarse (again) by parroting back comments I made re electrical work. The difference there is that I am very well qualified to speak on electrical issues, having been a Ministerial appointee in that area of expertise, whereas you are not qualified to speak on anything that I am aware of, and I never picked you to be a plumber. Shlt stirrer is about your level methinks. Cheers Billy 8-{) |
Billy T (70) | ||
| 1149850 | 2010-11-03 04:08:00 | Har Har. | zqwerty (97) | ||
| 1149851 | 2010-11-03 10:44:00 | Well, my shallow take on the physics of the problem follows... The big factor in the hammer is the weight of the water in the column (pipes) and the speed of that water... or in other words, its momentum... or more specifically, its abrupt change in momentum (deceleration, bounce). If your water supply was coming straight from a 12inch diameter pipe the speed of that column of water would be sod-all, even with the taps at full flow, and you wouldn't have this issue. Change that to a narrower pipe such as we have in the home, and you've got water moving much faster. Now the longer the length of small pipe, the greater the momentum of that column of water. When the tap gets turned off that entire column of water all has to come to a halt, abruptly, setting up these shock waves and flexing in the pipe. Substituting a long length of larger diameter poly pipe might reduce the speed of the water in that section, and would introduce a pipe with a bit more give in it. Probably your easiest strategy, if not using the piston or expansion chamber techniques already mentioned is a budget version of an air chamber - just more pipe added into the system, but with a couple of valves (taps) at each end of its length. The trick is to keep this length above the pipe it joins onto, so that any water getting into it falls back down the line at the conclusion of the pressure surge. The reason for a valve at each end is so that water can be bled out (and air let in) periodically without having to close off the mains. I don't know enough to be certain that the trapped air won't eventually dissolve into the water or slowly permeate through the pipe walls, so it might be necessary to close one valve and open the other to bleed out the water, then reverse the valves for routine use. Incorporating a flow restrictor might reduce the volume of expansion chamber needed by dampening down the bounce effect...maybe. |
Paul.Cov (425) | ||
| 1149852 | 2010-11-03 12:00:00 | Aah now I know what that funny noise is sometimes when I turn the shower off... | Agent_24 (57) | ||
| 1149853 | 2010-11-04 07:54:00 | Aah now I know what that funny noise is sometimes when I turn the shower off... We had the same problem a few years ago. Told to turn off the water at the street, go inside and turn all the taps on, then go out and turn water on again, that got rid of the air lock. Bit of water splash in the bathroom basin that's all. Lurking. |
Lurking (218) | ||
| 1149854 | 2010-11-04 08:40:00 | So in this case it was caused by a compressible air space? Sounds like something worth researching before fitting any remedial bits. |
Paul.Cov (425) | ||
| 1149855 | 2010-11-04 18:12:00 | BT, I was told the same as Lurking - and it worked. Turn off at the street. Turn all taps on, Turn on at the street and then working backwards, turn the furtherest tap off first and work back to the tap closest to the street. |
Bryan (147) | ||
| 1149856 | 2010-11-05 02:01:00 | BT, I was told the same as Lurking - and it worked. Turn off at the street. Turn all taps on, Turn on at the street and then working backwards, turn the furtherest tap off first and work back to the tap closest to the street. Brian, had forgotten about the working back from furtherest! Lurks. |
Lurking (218) | ||
| 1149857 | 2010-11-05 02:35:00 | diy is easy... www.naturalhandyman.com the closer to the offending tap you can install the better. |
robsonde (120) | ||
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