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| Thread ID: 116907 | 2011-03-25 02:13:00 | 'Technical' But NOT About Puters! | SurferJoe46 (51) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 1189270 | 2011-03-27 06:26:00 | Haven't decided yet - but they'll likely be blue this time. I painted some incandescent bulbs (OE-type) before and I liked the color/colour a lot - red, green, yellow were all good - but blue has my attention now. Actually - I tried to run maybe 5 of the big blue LEDs on the system a couple of years ago - and as long as they lasted (just a few days) they were quite nice. |
SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
| 1189271 | 2011-03-27 06:39:00 | How about these::: www.allelectronics.com |
SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
| 1189272 | 2011-03-27 09:11:00 | Joe You need to know the operating voltage and current rating for these LEDs before you can set up any system. White are usually 3.0 to 3.3 volts and other colours 2 to 2.5 volts, current is 15-25 mA depending on the brightness you need. If you string 4 or 5 of these in series they will run off 12-14 volts without a series resistor, no problem, but if you want to put in individual replacements you will need to use a series resistor of about 220-330 ohms on each lamp. You have to find the right value empirically because you will not know how bright they will look at night until you try them. Series resistors need only be .25 to .5 watt rating, I use .5w because the size is easier to handle. White red or blue car lamps are available here as plug in replacements in T5 (small) or T10 (larger) styles for about $2.50 each, and special 360 degree illumination types in T10 only (red/white/yellow) are available too, but are a lot more costly at $30 each. If you want I'll scan the catalogue page and email it to you if you want to eyeball the look of them. Just PM your email address. Cheers Billy 8-{) |
Billy T (70) | ||
| 1189273 | 2011-03-27 09:41:00 | For the record I've never had an LED fail short-circuit, in fact the only time one did fail was when I forgot the resistor (and it just went open-circuit) If you buy good quality LEDs I doubt you would get problems, it's the el-cheapo ones you get on eBay, 100 for $5 sort of deal where a few may fail prematurely. |
Agent_24 (57) | ||
| 1189274 | 2011-03-27 10:21:00 | www.ohmslawcalculator.com Look here |
Phil B (648) | ||
| 1189275 | 2011-03-27 15:06:00 | Joe You need to know the operating voltage and current rating for these LEDs before you can set up any system . White are usually 3 . 0 to 3 . 3 volts and other colours 2 to 2 . 5 volts, current is 15-25 mA depending on the brightness you need . If you string 4 or 5 of these in series they will run off 12-14 volts without a series resistor, no problem, but if you want to put in individual replacements you will need to use a series resistor of about 220-330 ohms on each lamp . You have to find the right value empirically because you will not know how bright they will look at night until you try them . Series resistors need only be . 25 to . 5 watt rating, I use . 5w because the size is easier to handle . White red or blue car lamps are available here as plug in replacements in T5 (small) or T10 (larger) styles for about $2 . 50 each, and special 360 degree illumination types in T10 only (red/white/yellow) are available too, but are a lot more costly at $30 each . If you want I'll scan the catalogue page and email it to you if you want to eyeball the look of them . Just PM your email address . Cheers Billy 8-{) That scan would be nice --- PM'd . For the record I've never had an LED fail short-circuit, in fact the only time one did fail was when I forgot the resistor (and it just went open-circuit) If you buy good quality LEDs I doubt you would get problems, it's the el-cheapo ones you get on eBay, 100 for $5 sort of deal where a few may fail prematurely . Saw that too - usually things in hundreds are risky unless it's Hamiltons . . ohmslawcalculator . com/led_resistor_calculator . php" target="_blank">www . ohmslawcalculator . com Look here Awwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww - that means calculations! And counting . And being awake . Urghhhhh! :yuck: |
SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
| 1189276 | 2011-03-27 21:59:00 | Awwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww - that means calculations! And counting. And being awake. Urghhhhh! :yuck: Not too much brainwork required. Just enter the specs of the led & the voltage & you're done Here's an easier one to use led.linear1.org |
Phil B (648) | ||
| 1189277 | 2011-03-28 00:42:00 | Sounds easy - except the voltage varies between 10 and 15 on a good day. More variation each way in times of stress (which is a good time to be able to see the panel). | R2x1 (4628) | ||
| 1189278 | 2011-03-28 01:02:00 | I can always get a power inverter from 12.6VDC to 14.8VDC and then cut it back to a nice solid 5.3VDC. | SurferJoe46 (51) | ||
| 1189279 | 2011-03-28 01:42:00 | If the source voltage is 14.5 v which in theory is the maximum an alternator will charge (13.8-14.5) put in whatever spec the LED has & use a resistor to that value & you're set. I've got LED's lighting various parts of the interiors of my van & cars & they've been going strong for years. Even when the engine's not running, you can hardly see the difference in brightness (12v instead of 14v) | Phil B (648) | ||
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