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Thread ID: 118452	2011-06-05 05:58:00	Car's oil changes ...	Nomad (952)	PC World Chat

Post ID	Timestamp	Content	User
1207130	2011-06-05 05:58:00	How many of you members change your oil? We have the user's manual but it doesn't give all the diagrams. So we had to get a book from the library to vaguely point us to where the drain plug is well it's an approx only given so many variations of the same model. We then couldn't get the oil filter out :D Bought a oil wrench, still couldn't. Went back to the shop got some advice and still couldn't. There were like 3 hoses in the way. We have a good relation with our mechanic so he does it for us for $35 if we supply the oil be he's busy this time round. The oil he has suggested in the past weren't that great thou ... the $30 4L mineral stuff. Even a VW was using that ..... Anyone know if it matters? Not racing or performance stuff. Just day to day stuff. Are mineral oil just as good?	Nomad (952)
1207131	2011-06-05 06:10:00	For a relatively modern engine any known brand (Castrol,Pennzoil,Shell etc etc) 15/40 engine oil is ok. It's when you've got something new that you have to be careful. That's when you consult the manual to get the right viscosity & spec. If you don't it could cost you big bikkies, especially it's a diesel	Phil B (648)
1207132	2011-06-05 06:14:00	DIY	pctek (84)
1207133	2011-06-05 06:54:00	What year/make/model of car and what engine? Some of the newer engines require a 0W-5 oil - which is as thin as water. Many 2000 - up engines require 5W-20 or 5W-30 and nothing else. The problem with using your grandfather's advice for oil is that the new engines don't need viscosity - they need metered flow to the journals and if the oil is too thick, you ruin the engine. A thick oil will starve a journal and really, almost any time a crank is damaged, the owner put the wrong oil in it. The pistons and rings can live on camel urine - but the rotating parts die a fast death if they are starved. Same with the camshaft and it's followers. If the lifters are rollerized, they can handle camel urine - but if the are 'flat-types' they need the absolute correct oil as specified by the manufacturer. A flat cam destroys more than just the cam and followers as the metal that is ground off into the engine goes into the bearings on the crank and render it worthless. Many newer engine have no provision for replacing the rod/main bearings and there is no way to resize the crank journals either with the hard nitrited surface coatings on them and the special radius of the inner journals - they just crack after any attempt to regrind them - so that's out! The block and the crank will both be junk since the block IS the bearing surface without any inserts that can be replaced! But - ultimately oil viscosity and lubricating qualities depends on the manufacturer. In the old days we went with 20/50 or 10/40, no 'W' designation. These older oils will destroy many modern engines in moments after you start it up after an oil change with the wrong oil. Try to stay away from Pennsylvania-type asphalt-based oil as they break down early and just don't do the job. That would be - bit not limited to:: Pennzoil, Wolf's Head, Kendall GT, Royal Triton, Quaker State, Shell and any 50% reclaimed oils by the oil companies that is so 'modern' and a 'green-thing' to do. An oil with a heavy vegetable oil content is very much better and more stable for the modern high temperature engines. Modern engines run at 200ºF coolant temp and more! These preferred oils are: Castrol GTX, Valvoline, Torco, Royal Purple, Castrol Castor X, Castrol Castor IV, etc. Jojoba oil is very good, but nothing replaces good ol' Flipper-In-A-Can - but it's not PC to cook dolphins and porpoises for engine lube oil any more. Pay attention to the oil specs - sometimes on the filler cap - but ALWAYS in the owner's manual! The new mineral oils are great if your car is spec'd for them. VW uses thin mineral oils in the newer engine, so don't use that as a criteria for YOUR engine!	SurferJoe46 (51)
1207134	2011-06-05 07:12:00	Joe, in question VW Bora 2.0L Auto (petrol). 2005. The mechanic gave the same advice to a 2001 Audi A4 2.4 V6 tiptronic. Our Japanese cars would be fine I think. 1992 Mazda 323 1.3L auto. 2001 Toyota Camry 2.0L auto. We have now gone from mineral Penzoil to Shell Helix HX7 which is synthetic with specs of VW 502.00.	Nomad (952)
1207135	2011-06-05 07:19:00	Best advice for a stubborn oil filter is a big pair of multi grips. The oil filter wrenches can be a right pain if its in a tight spot	plod (107)
1207136	2011-06-05 07:23:00	Joe, in question VW Bora 2.0L Auto (petrol). 2005. The mechanic gave the same advice to a 2001 Audi A4 2.4 V6 tiptronic. Our Japanese cars would be fine I think. 1992 Mazda 323 1.3L auto. 2001 Toyota Camry 2.0L auto. We have now gone from mineral Penzoil to Shell Helix HX7 which is synthetic with specs of VW 502.00. I called a buddy who's still in the auto repair and servicing business and your VW calls for Royal Purple XPR 0W-10 multi grade motor oil. It's pretty straight forward, as this has a proven track record here in that particular engine. LINK: www.autozone.com This stuff's expensive! Like I said, a VW is required to use that 0-weight oil as a base, and that's the same viscosity as water! You can use a different brand, but the dealers here even use this stuff for their warranty vehicles. They don't want to replace an engine for free - right?	SurferJoe46 (51)
1207137	2011-06-05 07:26:00	Best advice for a stubborn oil filter is a big pair of multi grips. The oil filter wrenches can be a right pain if its in a tight spot Actually, the VW requires a special socket to remove and install the oil filter. Anything else will prolly crush the filter into a mass of crumbled, but still installed, metal that will be impossible to remove then.	SurferJoe46 (51)
1207138	2011-06-05 07:32:00	Bed time - it's 23:32 right now. G'nite Upsidedown Land!	SurferJoe46 (51)
1207139	2011-06-05 07:34:00	Actually, the VW requires a special socket to remove and install the oil filter . Anything else will prolly crush the filter into a mass of crumbled, but still installed, metal that will be impossible to remove then . Trust the europeans, just googled it .	plod (107)
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