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| Thread ID: 122531 | 2011-12-28 04:09:00 | Spraying Clearcoat | hueybot3000 (3646) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 1250934 | 2011-12-28 04:09:00 | Anyone here handy with a spray gun and clearcoat? On my car ive resprayed it but the clear came out a bit average. Was looking mint after 3 and a bit colour coats but the clear came out quite dry and rough. Gave a patch on the roof a bit of a sand today with 1500g wet to see if it flattened out and it looks like im going straight through the clearcoat. Anyone know best direction to head? Im thinking il spray more clear over the whole car but I apparently suck at spraying clear so would be awesome if I could find someone who knew what they were doing to go over it. Pros won't touch it cos they can't guarentee it. I just want the thing looking ok, been driving it like this since last xmas :mad: Cheers |
hueybot3000 (3646) | ||
| 1250935 | 2011-12-28 04:57:00 | Years ago when flying RC model racing planes, I used to spray the colour then two coats of clear. The paints I used were two pot. Usually when they look dry it was caused either by the air temp to hot and the paint drying to quick, or the paint itself to dry and laid on to thick (not enough thinner). When done correctly and left for a few days they looked reasonably good, then when cut and polished, they used to come out looking like the finish on a piano. |
wainuitech (129) | ||
| 1250936 | 2011-12-28 05:46:00 | It's a bit different over the scale of a car. Im using acrylic cos I can safely spray it without breathing gear etc | hueybot3000 (3646) | ||
| 1250937 | 2011-12-28 06:09:00 | Not really with the scale - in fact its easier, as the finish on a normal car is rubbish compared to the models. I'm talking BIG models, not the small plastic ones. I still required a full size compressor, proper spray gun and air fed masks to paint as the paint was can cause all sorts of health problems. From the experience I had, over thirteen years, a few times I tried acrylic, and it was no where near as good as the normal paints I used. Where are you spraying it ?? If you ever look at the professionals they generally use spray booths with proper controlled environments and the correct paints. If paints going on dry and rough, that can indicate to much pressure in the gun, paints too dry and drying to quickly. |
wainuitech (129) | ||
| 1250938 | 2011-12-28 06:12:00 | Was sprayin it in a gazebo but that was last year and then i lost motivation after the earthquakes etc but am just looking at it now as I have no garage to work on stockcar. I was planning on waiting for a still morning and working on the roof. The car just needs another coat of clear but the roof came out rough which Im pretty sure is overspray. It could also be the setup I used. I used the same setup right through from primer to clear and the clear was the only one with any problems. I'm not after a show room finish, but I wanna do my best at the same time. | hueybot3000 (3646) | ||
| 1250939 | 2011-12-28 06:22:00 | Right, just spoke to my brother who used to be a professional panel beater and spray painter . To quote him - acrylic is very hard to spray on - it has to be thinned correctly to the right consistency - to much thinning and it runs,not enough and you will get the dry, rough look you mentioned . The instructions on the tin are a general guide only, it also has to do with the heat of the day, or temp in the spray booth, and a lot has to do with the skill of the painter . |
wainuitech (129) | ||
| 1250940 | 2011-12-28 06:23:00 | That is very simple info, cheers. Right well all 3 factors could be to blame. The skill of the painter is probaly the biggest! It would be better to clearcoat on a cool morning/evening? | hueybot3000 (3646) | ||
| 1250941 | 2011-12-28 06:29:00 | heres the car | hueybot3000 (3646) | ||
| 1250942 | 2011-12-28 08:45:00 | When painting myself, I used to do it in a closed off area in the garage ( ok the whole garage ;) ) that I could alter the temperature a little bit, so didn't really have to worry to much about time of day . But I would never do it at night, to many shadows even though I had a lot of light, and it never used to come out as good as if I did them earlier in the day . I know when my brother used to do cars at his old house he never painted if it were to hot as it dried to fast . If its to cold then the clear can "frost over" and look all cloudy, which while it can be buffed out, its a PITA . He did all his painting inside his garage, which had an extractor fan setup and all the other bits and bods he needed . If you are doing the painting outside, dont go doing it to late in the day as the damn sand flies can smell a fresh paint job a mile away, and just love to land in it . Just found . hotrodders . com/forum/how-spray-clear-coat-car" target="_blank">www . hotrodders . com ( . hotrodders . com/forum/how-spray-clear-coat-car-159654 . html" target="_blank">www . hotrodders . com) - May or may not be of some help . Edited: the paint job looks Ok . PS: The lawn needs mowing :p |
wainuitech (129) | ||
| 1250943 | 2011-12-28 08:56:00 | Haha the lawn does need mowing, you can't see the big burnt patches though :-p I'm more likely to do it in the morning, that's when I did the rest of the painting on the car, prep the day/night before and get up nice and early to spray. For the most part Im very hapy with the finish, its mainly the roof that Im not happy about. I think though if I have to put a bit more colour on the roof Ill end up having to give the whole car another coat cos I am not keen to try blending :-o Cheers for the link |
hueybot3000 (3646) | ||
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