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| Thread ID: 124956 | 2012-05-29 23:37:00 | Question about 2 part epoxy | Tony (4941) | PC World Chat |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 1278315 | 2012-05-30 10:19:00 | give topmark products auckland a call. They wil tell you everything you need to know | superoman (6703) | ||
| 1278316 | 2012-05-30 10:45:00 | I had already come across Norski, and it is certainly another possibility. The issue is not failure in a structural or adhesive sense, but rather what it is going to look like. Will I end up with a crumbling chalky, yellowing mess, or just something with a powdery surface? The pack that i got was 125ml. Mixed it is a light cream colour. Smoothed off with water on your finger it will come up like a glass surface. |
BobM (1138) | ||
| 1278317 | 2012-05-30 10:46:00 | Thanks K-C for the full and thoughtful comment. I've actually had long conversations with a couple of people from Nuplex. It was one of them who mentioned the yellowing/chalkiness. I've also talked to tech people from Selleys about Araldite and International about Epifill. I also talked to someone from 3M about polyurethane products. He thought the deterioration would be worse and quicker than with epoxy. Grout could be a possibility, although I'm not sure (without any evidence) about its durability. Mortar I would have to check the fineness of the powder, as it is going to have to fit some pretty thin/shallow spaces. I've been on this project for over 5 years, so a few more weeks research and testing is not going to be an issue. |
Tony (4941) | ||
| 1278318 | 2012-05-30 10:55:00 | Yes, I've thought of that. I think it still an epoxy though (could well be wrong). I specifically don't want to paint it for reasons that are to long to explain here. It won't have any sharp edges. Builder's bog is excellent in the weather and just goes slightly chalky over the years. You can delay the setting time by reducing the amount of catalyst used, and for best results do it in cold weather or chill it in the fridge then pop it in the freezer for another 60 minutes or so before mixing and using it. If it is a new tin or pack, it is best to put it in the fridge without opening so that the smell doesn't get out. If it is a used tin or tube and smells a little, multiple wrap it with gladwrap or other cling film then double bag it in supermarket bags just for luck. I learned the hard way: Mrs T put a big batch of her 'World Famous in NZ' Christmas mince in the garage beer fridge, then I went and put a batch of bog in there to slow hardening, and you can guess the result. It was only lightly contaminated but Mrs T couldn't eat it and I got hell. To keep the peace, in the end I used it up myself, but it was a less than pleasant experience all round. It was ok when actually eating it, but the after-taste was not the best. :yuck: Cheers Billy 8-{) |
Billy T (70) | ||
| 1278319 | 2012-05-30 11:02:00 | Thanks Billy T. "Chalky" - back to my original question. Is that just a surface effect, or is it a total (if gradual) deterioration? | Tony (4941) | ||
| 1278320 | 2012-05-30 22:45:00 | Concrete is fairly weather resistant, and has been used in some quite extreme shapes. | R2x1 (4628) | ||
| 1278321 | 2012-05-31 01:52:00 | Concrete is fairly weather resistant, and has been used in some quite extreme shapes.Indeed it is. However getting it neatly into some of the fairly small crevices, and also having it an acceptable colour could be a problem. | Tony (4941) | ||
| 1278322 | 2012-05-31 02:00:00 | PVA and polyfilla. It dries as hard as a rock and I have used it outside but since the place it was used I cannot re visit I have no idea if it worked or not long term, another solution is the Sikaflex (I think they make it) that is used to seal the joints on tilt panels in commercial buildings. It is outside all the time. Placemakers or equivalent will tell you | gary67 (56) | ||
| 1278323 | 2012-05-31 03:03:00 | I thought it might help if I gave some idea of what I am trying to achieve . See the attachment, which is one of my test efforts . The basic tile is glazed stoneware pottery . The lettering has been sandblasted, and the capital T is about 12mm high, and 1 . 5mm deep . It is this lettering I am trying to fill . In the picture, the top row has been filled with glaze and refired, with only partial success . The middle row is untouched, and the "3b" in the bottom row has been filled with Knead-it and the "Test" has been filled with Epifill . As you can see the areas to be filled are small and shallow, which is why using concrete etc . could be difficult . The ideal product would be a tintable thin liquid that could be dripped from a syringe into each letter to fill it, with a reasonably long working time, and clean-upable before it goes off, and all the durability characteristics I have been talking about . One of the problems with Knead-it and Epifill is that their nature makes the only way I have found to apply them to be to over fill then carve/sand back . This gives the danger of damage to the surrounding surface, as can be seen looking closely at the "3b", where the glazed surface has been damaged by sanding . So now you can maybe see why this has been a 5-year project, and why some of the solutions suggested so far are maybe not really suitable! :) 3841 |
Tony (4941) | ||
| 1278324 | 2012-05-31 03:28:00 | Thanks Billy T. "Chalky" - back to my original question. Is that just a surface effect, or is it a total (if gradual) deterioration? In my experience it holds up for many years. I used bog with gay abandon when renovating our home, and as mentioned previously on PF1, I have some french doors with extensive bog, and window frames that are 50% original and the rest is made up of bog with solid wood pieces as block-fillers to keep the bog volume down. The biggest problem is wood shrinking away from the bog, but I see no signs of deterioration in the filler. I have even dug up lumps from the garden that are now 20+ years old and solid as a rock. The only thing I would suggest is that you buy only reputable products, not some cheap import. I have always used well-known brands suitable for body filler for cars etc. I notice that some cheap 'instant' cyanoacrylate glues are very poor quality and one brand from a reputable hardware chain goes solid in the tube after just one quick use, despite proper recapping. I've even used bog instead of putty to glaze windows, and quite frankly I'd never bother with putty again, bog is far superior and ready to paint in hours, not weeks or months. If you break a window it is easy to chisel, saw or grind out as well. You gets what you pays for..............and deserves what you gets! Cheers Billy 8-{) |
Billy T (70) | ||
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