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| Thread ID: 25250 | 2002-09-29 20:06:00 | Need new Power Supply if upgrade Mboard & Chip? | Steve_L (763) | Press F1 |
| Post ID | Timestamp | Content | User | ||
| 84490 | 2002-09-29 20:06:00 | My 400 Mhz Celeron needs upgrading, and I am planning on getting a new motherboard-chip-RAM unit. They cost around $350 - $800, so it seems like a good way to go, seeing that I do not need to replace the CD Writer or HD (not quite yet), CD ROM, etc. But how do I know if my old power supply will support the likes of an Athlon 1800 or 1.7 Celeron, etc.? I suspect that I will need a more grunty PS as the one I have is just 240 watts and my guess is that I need around 300 watts. Is this true? Is there some place on the Net where it says how much power is needed for upgrading? BTW, if I do need a power supply then I guess it might be best to get an upgrade box, such as what PB Technology sells. Right? Thanks - Steve |
Steve_L (763) | ||
| 84491 | 2002-09-29 22:35:00 | You shouldn't need to waste your money on a new PSU. Until recently (i added alot of fans to my case and some other stuff) I was running a 200W (amazing I know) on my XP1800+. A safe bet is a 300W though. And they only cost $60 (if you pay more you're getting ripped off). This should last you a while. As for your upgrade box. These are the cheapest prices I could find. Internet Upgrade Box $445 inc GST AMD Duron 1.2GHz CPU & Fan PC Chips M825LMR Motherboard 128Mb PC2100 DDR266 Integrated Graphics (+ AGP Slot) Mid ATX Tower Case 300w Integrated 56k Modem Integrated Sound Integrated 10/100 LAN Gamer Upgrade Box $875 inc GST AMD Athlon XP1800+ (1.53GHz) CPU & Fan Soltek 75DRV5 Motherboard 256Mb Vdata PC2700 DDR333 Leadtek 64Mb DDR GF4 MX440 Video Card Mid ATX Tower Case 300w Integrated AC97 Sound Fully Assembled Those include your new 300W PSU. And in my opinion and many others Soltek delivers the best Motherboards. Sadly the second includes a gf4mx but that can be easily swapped. |
MoNk (2077) | ||
| 84492 | 2002-09-30 00:02:00 | > A safe bet is a 300W though . And they only cost $60 > (if you pay more you're getting ripped off) . For a basic PSU, yes . BUT, you do get what you pay for . Just because it costs more, doesn't mean you're being ripped off . It just mean you are buying quality and reliability . A cheap PSU doesn't deliver as clean power as an expensive one . You may not notice those tiny fluctuations while you use the PC, but it will shorten the life of your components . In my opinion, it is better to buy a smaller, but better quality PSU than a bigger , cheaper model as long as the smaller one is big enough to power everything OK . BTW re: your 200W - you may get away with this, but ther est of your components will be suffering . There are reasons for having the corretc size PSU - if you are putting too much pressure on the one you have, you will be wearing it out, not to mention the fact that your components may not be getting the juice they neeed during peak usage . Your call . AMD has an article on how to figure out the power requirements of your system here ( . amd . com/us-en/assets/content_type/white_papers_and_tech_docs/26003 . pdf" target="_blank">www . amd . com) (Page 5 onwards) G P |
Graham Petrie (449) | ||
| 84493 | 2002-09-30 00:18:00 | I agree that PSU quality greatly differs. It is the most underapreciated part of your PC. It is also the most easily damaged. I simple 300W ATX PSU does the job, and is a trusted product. The only other trusted brand is Enermax which produces mainly 350+ wattages and is very expensive. They are only expensive because they want you to buy the cases that acompany them however. Do you have ESP or something? How do you notice these tiny fluctuatoins you speak of? I've read those power supply articles before on AMD's site + others. They just say your MAXIMUM DRAW. But the reality is your computer will NEVER draw the amount of power you add up from all your components, NEVER EVER. Those sites always seem to be selling things also. You'll find overclocking sites are far better at explaining things truthfully without weighing their comments with products. You will also find that there are NO SMALL WATTAGE high quality PSUs available anywhere. You may be able to get a 250W "good brand" PSU, but you won't find many. |
MoNk (2077) | ||
| 84494 | 2002-09-30 00:47:00 | >The only other trusted brand is Enermax which produces mainly 350+ >wattages and is very expensive. They are only expensive because they >want you to buy the cases that acompany them however ?:| you can buy enermax psu's without cases no worrys. there are a fair few good quality psu makers around. >are NO SMALL WATTAGE high quality PSUs available anywhere. most are found in OEM machines eg hp/compaq/pc co. one thing not to forget is to get an AMD style psu. these have grills underneath(or a fan) to allow hot air from cpu to be quickly removed. |
tweak'e (174) | ||
| 84495 | 2002-09-30 01:00:00 | > The only other trusted brand is Enermax > which produces mainly 350+ wattages and is very > expensive . Bollocks - there are other good PSU manufacturers out there, but I agree that Enermax is definitely one of the best . > Do you have ESP or something? How do you notice > these tiny fluctuatoins you speak of? No, you use a multimeter - there are plenty available for sale that you can use to measure the fluctuation of the voltage from the PSU . If you are invovled in modifying your PSU at any stage, the first thing you do afterwards is ensure that the output voltages are correct and that they only fluctuate within the required specifications to make sure you don't blow your rig . > I've read those power supply articles before on > AMD's site + others . They just say your MAXIMUM > DRAW . But the reality is your computer will NEVER > draw the amount of power you add up from all your > components, NEVER EVER . True - if you actually read the article I pointed you to, you would find that it doesn't give the specific wattage required, but rather the equation to work it out . AND it says that you will never require the maximum draw of all you components combined . It gives a maximum factor of 80% by which to multiply the draw from your components to obtain a realistic figure . > You will also find that there are NO SMALL WATTAGE > high quality PSUs available anywhere . You may be > able to get a 250W "good brand" PSU, but you won't > find many . Why do you think that is?? Because most people buying a new PSU either want a big one for an overclocked/modded rig and need a good brand, or have a machine that they onlytake out on sundays which has a dead suplly . they only need a cheap job . But, you can get a good, smaller PSU . I suggest you read the AMD article, and do a little research before you post . In regards to Steve's question - Steve, it all depends on what other components you have . It would probably pay to buyt a new PSU as 240W is a little low for a high-drain CPU AND a few optical drives etc . Do the calcs if you want - you maight be OK if your other devices are low-drain . G P |
Graham Petrie (449) | ||
| 84496 | 2002-09-30 01:10:00 | >>Bollocks - there are other good PSU manufacturers out there, but I >>agree that Enermax is definitely one of the best. eg? >>No, you use a multimeter So you sit next to your computer while running it normal > games > apps etc holding yuo multimeter measure it???? = stupid Or do you get an app and use the motherboards voltage sensors? < do that. >>I suggest you read the AMD article, and do a little research before you >>post. I suggest you try some real world experiences before you link to people you "think" are right. Do you beleive everything you read on the net. |
MoNk (2077) | ||
| 84497 | 2002-09-30 02:11:00 | >So you sit next to your computer while running it normal > games > apps etc holding yuo multimeter measure it???? = stupid no not really. the trouble with on board senors is they do not always read correctly. connecting a data logging multimter to the psu rails is a good way to do it as you can read the voltage as the pc starts up (which is impossible for a pc ap to do) and keep track of any dips in the supply. for the real fussy people connect up currant meters to. something you guys need to remember is the wattage quoted is the overall wattage not the actual wattage for each rail. running an old (possibley cheap) 240 watt psu on a new rig is just asking for trouble. |
tweak'e (174) | ||
| 84498 | 2002-09-30 02:39:00 | so you're saying the bios voltage readouts are wrong? why don't they read correct readouts? everyone i have asked about this thinks that they are so close to correct there is no point in checking further. |
MoNk (2077) | ||
| 84499 | 2002-09-30 05:28:00 | yes they CAN be wrong, just like some temp readings are wrong. however for general monitoring its fine and it gives you the actual motherboard voltages instead of psu voltages. however if you are testing to see what the smallest psu you can get away with (as an OEM would) then an accurate multimeter is the only way to go. | tweak'e (174) | ||
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